Dyno tuned today.
#45
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I have roughly that same issue but it's between 3500 and 4200 where I get rich spikes even though the fuel table is smooth...
I'll check spark gap first to see if that helps... but I get scared when you guys start getting all electrical on me. WTF does .1uF mean? I guess just tell me I can get one at Radio Shack.
I'll check spark gap first to see if that helps... but I get scared when you guys start getting all electrical on me. WTF does .1uF mean? I guess just tell me I can get one at Radio Shack.
#46
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PLEASE LISTEN TO SCOTT and add the cap!!!!
It filters/smooths out the tach signal AND IT WILL WORK. It took the inventors of MS to figure this out (Per Jerry@ Autotune).
BTDT...
Last pic in post 2 shows where and how.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13676
It filters/smooths out the tach signal AND IT WILL WORK. It took the inventors of MS to figure this out (Per Jerry@ Autotune).
BTDT...
Last pic in post 2 shows where and how.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13676
#47
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I have roughly that same issue but it's between 3500 and 4200 where I get rich spikes even though the fuel table is smooth...
I'll check spark gap first to see if that helps... but I get scared when you guys start getting all electrical on me. WTF does .1uF mean? I guess just tell me I can get one at Radio Shack.
I'll check spark gap first to see if that helps... but I get scared when you guys start getting all electrical on me. WTF does .1uF mean? I guess just tell me I can get one at Radio Shack.
yes you can. i just picked up a pack of 5 for like $2
#51
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Piece of cake *******... add this to my weekend list of Miata ****.
1. Pull Valve Cover.
2. JBWeld nuts for COP holdowns.
3. Clean, sand, paint Valve Cover.
4. Gap plugs
5. Add J8 resistor.
6. Install COP's, test (maybe adjust cranking pulse-width).
7. Clean intercooler and hit it with some flat black.
8. Fab up seatback mounting bracket for uber-seat (seat currently held in by twine).
9. Seriously consider new timing map.
10. Finally get down to LongShots and have a beer.
1. Pull Valve Cover.
2. JBWeld nuts for COP holdowns.
3. Clean, sand, paint Valve Cover.
4. Gap plugs
5. Add J8 resistor.
6. Install COP's, test (maybe adjust cranking pulse-width).
7. Clean intercooler and hit it with some flat black.
8. Fab up seatback mounting bracket for uber-seat (seat currently held in by twine).
9. Seriously consider new timing map.
10. Finally get down to LongShots and have a beer.
#52
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Piece of cake *******... add this to my weekend list of Miata ****.
1. Pull Valve Cover.
2. JBWeld nuts for COP holdowns.
3. Clean, sand, paint Valve Cover.
4. Gap plugs
5. Add J8 resistor.
6. Install COP's, test (maybe adjust cranking pulse-width).
7. Clean intercooler and hit it with some flat black.
8. Fab up seatback mounting bracket for uber-seat (seat currently held in by twine).
9. Seriously consider new timing map.
10. Finally get down to LongShots and have a beer.
1. Pull Valve Cover.
2. JBWeld nuts for COP holdowns.
3. Clean, sand, paint Valve Cover.
4. Gap plugs
5. Add J8 resistor.
6. Install COP's, test (maybe adjust cranking pulse-width).
7. Clean intercooler and hit it with some flat black.
8. Fab up seatback mounting bracket for uber-seat (seat currently held in by twine).
9. Seriously consider new timing map.
10. Finally get down to LongShots and have a beer.
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#55
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Fixed
My car needs it. Has a random misfire event that tends to occur when at high speed cruise (70-85mph). Some days, it won't happen. Other days, it'll do it 3-5 times. Hoping that this cap clears it up. As soon as I get my MB back (again) I'll be doing this.
My car needs it. Has a random misfire event that tends to occur when at high speed cruise (70-85mph). Some days, it won't happen. Other days, it'll do it 3-5 times. Hoping that this cap clears it up. As soon as I get my MB back (again) I'll be doing this.
#58
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Sorry all. I know you told me of the cap before but when you said it would fix the "tach signal" I just thought it would solve the tach on the dash jumping at that RPM and I knew there was a seat of the pants miss too. So I though the dyno would show that it was a power loss problem not just a tach issue. Again sorry.
NOW BACK THE ORIGINAL PROBLEM!!!!
Where The F**CK is My 50 other horsepower????
NOW BACK THE ORIGINAL PROBLEM!!!!
Where The F**CK is My 50 other horsepower????
#59
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what was your AFR? your fuel map looks hella rich.
it's quite possible that the loaded dyno had heavy corrections on it....I betcha if you go back to the original dyno you'll have more power.
it's quite possible that the loaded dyno had heavy corrections on it....I betcha if you go back to the original dyno you'll have more power.