Dyno for a nooooob
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Ok so since i dont have a wide band, and dont plan on forking out 250 to get one any time soon. I am guessing that after i get my turbo all installed and running i will need to visit a tuning shop with a dyno to get everything lined out. Being that i live in Phoenix, shouldnt be hard to find one. I have a few questions though.
The kit im putting together seems to me to be rather un-tunable.. Vortech style FMU, all i can do there is change the disks, other than that i dont know what they could "tune" ??
What can i expect out of a tuner? What should i ask for? How much can i exspect to pay?
What should i have ready to go, before i make an appointment. What spare parts should i take?
Hope some of you more experianced dynoed folk can give me some advice.
Thanx
The kit im putting together seems to me to be rather un-tunable.. Vortech style FMU, all i can do there is change the disks, other than that i dont know what they could "tune" ??
What can i expect out of a tuner? What should i ask for? How much can i exspect to pay?
What should i have ready to go, before i make an appointment. What spare parts should i take?
Hope some of you more experianced dynoed folk can give me some advice.
Thanx
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We had a thread recently about this:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ht=dyno+expect
I would prepare the car for the dyno basically the same way I would prepare to drive it on a long road trip. On the dyno you can change out vortec disks and adjust base timing. If you have a bipes, you can tweak its map. The dyno time with tuning should run around $150.
Do you have a laptop? If so, pick up an lc-1 for $150 instead. Once you have the car where you want it, go to the dyno on a $50 for 3 pulls night.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ht=dyno+expect
I would prepare the car for the dyno basically the same way I would prepare to drive it on a long road trip. On the dyno you can change out vortec disks and adjust base timing. If you have a bipes, you can tweak its map. The dyno time with tuning should run around $150.
Do you have a laptop? If so, pick up an lc-1 for $150 instead. Once you have the car where you want it, go to the dyno on a $50 for 3 pulls night.
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The lc-1 is an inexpensive wideband at msrp $200. If you look around, you will find them for less. It does not come with a gauge, but allows you to use your laptop as a gauge and datalogger. You can also hook about any a/f gauge to it.
Be careful & cautous without a timing controller.
Ben
Be careful & cautous without a timing controller.
Ben
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well im running low boost 6-8 psi, and going to run WI and an intercooler.. so as long as my AF ratio stays good, i will be ok.. i have the shitty lil led af guage i made myself that is connected to the stock o2 sensor, but i guess tahts not going to be good enuff??
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Arizona Dyno Chip is where I always go to. As a matter of fact, there's a Dyno Days hosted by Tom @ FFS on Jan 20th. You can contact him directly for details.
http://www.arizonadynochip.com/index.php
http://www.arizonadynochip.com/index.php
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Well dont forget you can adjust your fuel curve be tensioning the afm spring. you can also adjust riseing fp onset with a mbc inline on the fmu. What is your base timming gonna be and what size nozzle and wich pump pressure for your WI system also wich injectors are you running. If i could make 200 on stock fuel system with WI only why cant you good luck man 8psi is for wussys turn it up.
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Arizona Dyno Chip is where I always go to. As a matter of fact, there's a Dyno Days hosted by Tom @ FFS on Jan 20th. You can contact him directly for details.
http://www.arizonadynochip.com/index.php
http://www.arizonadynochip.com/index.php
#12
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All right, that thread I started was 2 months ago and I still haven't gone... but I have high hopes that my injectors will be here tomorrow and I'll be back on the street in less than 15 hours or so.
In any case, I've got an appointment at Abacus Racing this Friday... trying to get in there as late as possible so some buds from the squadron can come down and play. It's $100 for the first hour, and prorated (I think he said $75 an hour) after that. From what I gather, an hour is plenty of time. With four or five friends there, everyone should be able to make a few pulls from the drivers seat.
You guys will be the first ones to know how things go. With Braineak and I both going Mythbusters on the whole RX7 MAF vs. Stock MAF thing, we'll see if I lose a little power with it like he did and put that horse to bed
Anybody in the area who wants to come down to the dyno on Friday just drop me a PM, and I'll get back to you with the exact time I work out.
In any case, I've got an appointment at Abacus Racing this Friday... trying to get in there as late as possible so some buds from the squadron can come down and play. It's $100 for the first hour, and prorated (I think he said $75 an hour) after that. From what I gather, an hour is plenty of time. With four or five friends there, everyone should be able to make a few pulls from the drivers seat.
You guys will be the first ones to know how things go. With Braineak and I both going Mythbusters on the whole RX7 MAF vs. Stock MAF thing, we'll see if I lose a little power with it like he did and put that horse to bed
Anybody in the area who wants to come down to the dyno on Friday just drop me a PM, and I'll get back to you with the exact time I work out.
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In any case, I've got an appointment at Abacus Racing this Friday... trying to get in there as late as possible so some buds from the squadron can come down and play. It's $100 for the first hour, and prorated (I think he said $75 an hour) after that. From what I gather, an hour is plenty of time. With four or five friends there, everyone should be able to make a few pulls from the drivers seat
Ok, real reason why I wanted to jump in is I wouldn't let the buddies run the car for you. Reason is, to make very fair comparisons after little modifications, the car needs to be driven on the dyno exactly the same. The car needs to be brought up to 3rd or 4th the same, starting rpm and throttle position need to be the same, as well as the speed of going WOT. FYI, if you increase throttle slowly, there will be lower intertial losses, and you can get an artificially high rwhp, compared to hitting the throttle down quickly. Consitency is key in getting a proper tune. But once you get the tune dialed in, screw around with the buddies all you want. Going to the dyno is freakin cool.
Ben
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im gonna start out with 12:1 fmu, stock afm, 1.8 injectors, WI pump is ushin around 100psi, and i have a 150cc nozzle. Pressure switch for the WI is set to 4 psi, and of corse i will be running the SHInTercooler. I plan on starting my base timing at 10, if i get no ping i might move it up to 12.. but prolly not. Dont forget im running a small 13g turbo.. so i wont get quite the same numbers you guys are...
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That is a good price. All the dynos around me get $150 for an hour. The one I went to also charged me a $9 bullshit "shop fee". But I also was on their machine for a bit over an hour, and they were pretty cool. I got like 20 pulls in, and even did comparisons between 3rd & 4th.
Ok, real reason why I wanted to jump in is I wouldn't let the buddies run the car for you. Reason is, to make very fair comparisons after little modifications, the car needs to be driven on the dyno exactly the same. The car needs to be brought up to 3rd or 4th the same, starting rpm and throttle position need to be the same, as well as the speed of going WOT. FYI, if you increase throttle slowly, there will be lower intertial losses, and you can get an artificially high rwhp, compared to hitting the throttle down quickly. Consitency is key in getting a proper tune. But once you get the tune dialed in, screw around with the buddies all you want. Going to the dyno is freakin cool.
Ben
Ok, real reason why I wanted to jump in is I wouldn't let the buddies run the car for you. Reason is, to make very fair comparisons after little modifications, the car needs to be driven on the dyno exactly the same. The car needs to be brought up to 3rd or 4th the same, starting rpm and throttle position need to be the same, as well as the speed of going WOT. FYI, if you increase throttle slowly, there will be lower intertial losses, and you can get an artificially high rwhp, compared to hitting the throttle down quickly. Consitency is key in getting a proper tune. But once you get the tune dialed in, screw around with the buddies all you want. Going to the dyno is freakin cool.
Ben
When I go to the Dyno, the operator suggests that I get it to 4th and stable at 2500 RPMs before he gives me the WOT signal. This is done the same way every single time.
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Running a T25 I'm already making 3-4psi by 2500rpms. I'd planned on getting it stable at about 1500rpms, and then hitting it. Part of my tuning will also be dialing in the 02 clamp (reminds me to buy a voltmeter) and I need to see the transition from vaccum to boost.
Other turbo guys, what do you normally start your runs at?
Other turbo guys, what do you normally start your runs at?
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We did my car at one needle width under an indicated 2000. According to my print out, that's 1800 rpm actual. Like what chuck said, you want to get it at a "stable" place under your boost threshold. Start each run the same way, and go WOT at the same rate each time. It's more important to be consistant than anything else, so just find what's comfortable for you and repeat.