'99 longblock, GT2554R, MSPNP: 217whp/192wtq@13psi (Mustang Dyno)
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'99 longblock, GT2554R, MSPNP: 217whp/192wtq@13psi (Mustang Dyno)
I'm very pleased with these numbers. The 99 longblock gobbled up another 3-4 degrees on top of what my 94 motor was doing and it translated to some serious numbers. I actually hit MBT on 91 octane above 6300rpm. I need to work on the boost curve a bit but other than that I'm quite pleased. It comes on nice and smooth around 3500rpm and then pulls like a freight train, harder and harder until the rev limiter steps in.
I did a pull with the VICS closed and one pull with it open; the closed pull made 10-12tq more below 5000rpm and showed nearly no losses above that. I set the switch point at 5200rpm. From what I can tell, the solenoid is powered all the time to keep them closed, and then it becomes unpowered at the switchpoint which opens them up. Or maybe I have it wired backwards.
The baseline number is my old spark map with 3 degrees removed, and my old fuel map with 10% added. I ended up pulling a bunch of fuel out and added timing like a madman.
Chart:
Datalog (boost curve spikes at 15.8 and ends at 11psi, needs some work for sure. 217whp at 11psi at redline isn't too shabby.)
Spark:
I did a pull with the VICS closed and one pull with it open; the closed pull made 10-12tq more below 5000rpm and showed nearly no losses above that. I set the switch point at 5200rpm. From what I can tell, the solenoid is powered all the time to keep them closed, and then it becomes unpowered at the switchpoint which opens them up. Or maybe I have it wired backwards.
The baseline number is my old spark map with 3 degrees removed, and my old fuel map with 10% added. I ended up pulling a bunch of fuel out and added timing like a madman.
Chart:
Datalog (boost curve spikes at 15.8 and ends at 11psi, needs some work for sure. 217whp at 11psi at redline isn't too shabby.)
Spark:
#5
Nice! Looks like you have the same actuator problem I have.
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Can't decide. It feels about the same as before, but another 10-15whp on the top. I need it to be stone reliable. I'll probably stabilize the boost curve and then turn it back down to 13. I'd like to see 225 on that dyno.
Jason, not sure what the correction factor for their numbers are. Those are corrected numbers but the uncorrected numbers are 15whp higher. The comparo I have right now is Nick's car, which did 230whp at 14psi and then did 218 at 17.5 on this dyno before we started tuning. He walked away with the same power at 14psi as he came in at 17.5psi with.
Jason, not sure what the correction factor for their numbers are. Those are corrected numbers but the uncorrected numbers are 15whp higher. The comparo I have right now is Nick's car, which did 230whp at 14psi and then did 218 at 17.5 on this dyno before we started tuning. He walked away with the same power at 14psi as he came in at 17.5psi with.
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You aren't f*cking around. I like that.
About thesnowboarder starting the day off at 17.5 psi and puting down 218 rwhp and by the end doing 230 whp @ 14psi, what was changed so much to make such a difference? Are we just talking spark tuning? That's a bangin' improvement.
P.S. How affordable and where is this dyno because I need to do about an hour of tuning but have no hook ups in that area...
-Ryan
About thesnowboarder starting the day off at 17.5 psi and puting down 218 rwhp and by the end doing 230 whp @ 14psi, what was changed so much to make such a difference? Are we just talking spark tuning? That's a bangin' improvement.
P.S. How affordable and where is this dyno because I need to do about an hour of tuning but have no hook ups in that area...
-Ryan
Last edited by ThePass; 03-14-2009 at 04:28 AM.
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You aren't f*cking around. I like that.
About thesnowboarder starting the day off at 17.5 psi and puting down 218 rwhp and by the end doing 230 whp @ 14psi, what was changed so much to make such a difference? Are we just talking spark tuning? That's a bangin' improvement.
P.S. How affordable and where is this dyno because I need to do about an hour of tuning but have no hook ups in that area...
-Ryan
About thesnowboarder starting the day off at 17.5 psi and puting down 218 rwhp and by the end doing 230 whp @ 14psi, what was changed so much to make such a difference? Are we just talking spark tuning? That's a bangin' improvement.
P.S. How affordable and where is this dyno because I need to do about an hour of tuning but have no hook ups in that area...
-Ryan
As far as what a good spark map is worth:
175whp/165wtq, 15.5psi to 12.5psi at redline:
217whp/192wtq, 15.8psi to 11.3psi at redline:
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P.P.S. Sav is your wastegate signal still coming off the compressor? Or are you using EBC to intentionally spike to 15 and then mellow out later? I switched my wastegate vac source to post-IC/pre-TB and now have very little boost drop off - you could probably spike to only 14 and then settle to 13 or 12.5...
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P.P.S. Sav is your wastegate signal still coming off the compressor? Or are you using EBC to intentionally spike to 15 and then mellow out later? I switched my wastegate vac source to post-IC/pre-TB and now have very little boost drop off - you could probably spike to only 14 and then settle to 13 or 12.5...
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P.P.S. Sav is your wastegate signal still coming off the compressor? Or are you using EBC to intentionally spike to 15 and then mellow out later? I switched my wastegate vac source to post-IC/pre-TB and now have very little boost drop off - you could probably spike to only 14 and then settle to 13 or 12.5...
its still off the compressor, he just needs to move it. He would like to hold the boost all the way to redline.
As for my seats, sprint 5, 2007 versions. Thanks for the cudos!
We dynoed at Full Function Motorsports in Union City. Ryan, check NCR for a bunch of local dynos. I created a thread to organize the cheapest load holding dynos a few weeks back. I think this particular dyno was 110 an hr.
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Based on the NCR dyno thread, I assume you went to Full Function Technology ($110 for 1 hour rental)... so you did the "rent the dyno if you know what you're doing with tuning" deal? We need a thread on what to focus on/what steps to take if you go to a dyno and tune yourself because I have no idea how to tune at a dyno... just fiddle with the timing until you find a max power? I know so little...
-Ryan
-Ryan
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If I can hold boost I think I might be able to keep the torque curve up. As it sits right now, I actually had 1 more degree of timing in the 6300/7000 cells at 183/212kpa, and I lost no power by removing it. No more power available there. :(
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its nice to see someone else jocking the det-cans. I'm the motherfucking man, don't ever forget it.
If the snowboarder's motor is at 9.5:1 static comp, then I think his #'s are reasonable. If its low comp like mine, then its a sad existence. Could his mechanical timing be off a tooth at the crank? Could it not be timed properly with the timing light? Could the CAS move?
If the snowboarder's motor is at 9.5:1 static comp, then I think his #'s are reasonable. If its low comp like mine, then its a sad existence. Could his mechanical timing be off a tooth at the crank? Could it not be timed properly with the timing light? Could the CAS move?
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