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So not only will tires instantly get me 11's, but looks like it will pull my front wheels off the ground... Annnd probably break something.
I broke the diff housing at the stress riser on my last outing when I ran the string of 7.7x's. You may want to look into the reinforcement plates if you decide to put some sticky's on it.
I broke the diff housing at the stress riser on my last outing when I ran the string of 7.7x's. You may want to look into the reinforcement plates if you decide to put some sticky's on it.
That or just weld in some plate. The drain plug in my 3.9 escaped when I went to the mountains last week so i'm going to have to toss my 4.3 back in since it's ruined now lol.
That or just weld in some plate. The drain plug in my 3.9 escaped when I went to the mountains last week so i'm going to have to toss my 4.3 back in since it's ruined now lol.
Grab the adapter I posted in the "trans/diff cooling" thread in the race section and throw a temp sensor in when you swap rear ends. I am curious what diff temps are like on the drag strip.
All seasons for life, I guess
I'll just have to drive better to get my 11.99 at 120.
I wonder if you could just file the little notch smooth inside to reduce the diff housing stress risers some, I should'a picked up Pat's rx7 housing. I doubt the diff temps get very high on the drag strip unless it's from radiated heat from the exhaust. The diff really only works hard when turning AFAIK.
I have talked with a bunch of my friends at the drag strip about running "tires." The plan is to air them up significantly to reduce traction some. And don't burn out on them!
Diffs (or rather, the rear end in a front engine, rear drive car) make heat even when going straight because of the hypoid gear. That said, a drag run is only 12 seconds (or 11.99 seconds!) long, so it doesn't have much time to heat soak compared to a road course.
As much as I would like to see this thread get buried as quickly as my build thread does. I feel this needs to be said.
Originally Posted by sonofthehill
I wonder if you could just file the little notch smooth inside to reduce the diff housing stress risers some
No!
Not a chance, Mazda did a very nice job on that cut. I think my hesitation installing the K Miata reinforcement plates is that there are so many idiots rolling around in 2 ton behemoths while texting in my neighborhood. If one of them comes careening into me, I want that thing to break and do it's thing, or whatever.
As I am looking at this potato quality picture. I know one of the two is a soviet spy, and the other is Latino* dog walker. I could not for the life of me guess which is which.
*I don't actually know if Carlos is Latino or not. But if Comedy Central has taught me anything, it is that a Carlos is Latino.
Took it a little easy after my broke tranny tobocal.
Barely finished in time for work this morning.
But I managed to get 3rd place.
As my friends and I were taking pictures of this.
It turned around and I saw this, I didn't see it run, not claiming anything. But it's his dial in so yeah, my car's faster than whatever kind of Ferrari that is.
Last edited by sonofthehill; 09-20-2018 at 12:37 AM.
Reason: Typo
That's an F430. Car mags rate it at high 11s with the flappy paddle "F1" transmission. Was it a manual? If so, then that's probably a time based on driver launching skill and desire not to fry an expensive Italian clutch.
The window also says ST, which suggests that it is not a manual. GJ is the manual transmission class, but you are allowed to run a manual in ST, you would be at a disadvantage though. Usually the tech guys suggest ST if you don't want to run against "fast cars" in GJ(gear jammers) I don't know what it was and I didn't see it run.
I’m pretty sure you are quicker. Its pretty rare to see the owner of one of those possess the talent and testicular fortitude to drive to potential. Probably trapped 120+ tho