1.8L Sr20 T25 turbo DYNO
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206.3 RWHP / 220 Lbf torque
My baseline when i first got this car before i rebuilt the motor was 98 rwhp!!
Went to the dyno yesterday. Unfortunatly I did not have time to throw my water meth on, so my IAT's were climbing a bit and my tune was VERY conservative.
Condtions/dyno:
65*F
100% Humidity (rain)
Dyno Dynamics
Car:
1996 1.8L freshly rebuilt with M-tuned rods
No ps or ac
Stock Pistons
ACT HD clutch
Megasquirt I hi res code
FM manifold
FM 2.5" downpipe
3" testpipe
3" enthuza catback
Sr20det T25 turbo
Ebay MBC
2.5" intercooler piping
CX racing front mount
CX racing radiator
550cc injectors
Stock coils with colder plugs
12-13 psi. Full boost by 3500. 4th gear pulls.
Running very conservative. 11.5:1 tapering to 11.2:1 at full boost. 14* of timing up top. No knock present. IAT's climbed 35-40* above ambient during the pull, but quickly drop back down.
![Name: DYNOCHART.jpg
Views: 4478
Size: 80.9 KB](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/dynos-timesheets-21/202978d1501246890-1-8l-sr20-t25-turbo-dyno-dynochart.jpg)
My baseline when i first got this car before i rebuilt the motor was 98 rwhp!!
Went to the dyno yesterday. Unfortunatly I did not have time to throw my water meth on, so my IAT's were climbing a bit and my tune was VERY conservative.
Condtions/dyno:
65*F
100% Humidity (rain)
Dyno Dynamics
Car:
1996 1.8L freshly rebuilt with M-tuned rods
No ps or ac
Stock Pistons
ACT HD clutch
Megasquirt I hi res code
FM manifold
FM 2.5" downpipe
3" testpipe
3" enthuza catback
Sr20det T25 turbo
Ebay MBC
2.5" intercooler piping
CX racing front mount
CX racing radiator
550cc injectors
Stock coils with colder plugs
12-13 psi. Full boost by 3500. 4th gear pulls.
Running very conservative. 11.5:1 tapering to 11.2:1 at full boost. 14* of timing up top. No knock present. IAT's climbed 35-40* above ambient during the pull, but quickly drop back down.
![Name: DYNOCHART.jpg
Views: 4478
Size: 80.9 KB](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/dynos-timesheets-21/202978d1501246890-1-8l-sr20-t25-turbo-dyno-dynochart.jpg)
![Name: dyno4thpull.jpg
Views: 2755
Size: 76.4 KB](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/dynos-timesheets-21/202979d1501246890-1-8l-sr20-t25-turbo-dyno-dyno4thpull.jpg)
Last edited by 240_to_miata; 10-25-2009 at 08:26 PM.
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Nice - I have nearly the same setup (I have a 3" magnaflow metal cell cat and an Absurdflow log manifold). I figured I was probably just north of 200whp, now you have pretty much proved it
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#3
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Remember, I could lean out my set up a decent amount (closer to 12:1) and add a degree or 2 of timing and probably gain 5-10 horse too. Id say this setup right now before water meth is a strong 215 rwhp setup.
I had 560 miles on the new motor when i dynoed
I had 560 miles on the new motor when i dynoed
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hrmm looks like I'll be upping the boost.... I'm only at 7-8 max lol looks like my ***** weak!! sucky part about my setup is I need a clutch before I can even dyno lolz... good solid numbers there, now time to up it
lol
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#11
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the compressor wheel is mighty smaller and doesn't really have much more to give up top, but you'll benefit from the mid-range torque for sure.
![](http://www.boostedmiata.com/technical/t25_60trim_map.jpg)
25 lb/min = roughly 230hp
look how it compares to my 30 lb/min wheel:
![](http://www.boostedmiata.com/technical/t25_60trim_map.jpg)
25 lb/min = roughly 230hp
look how it compares to my 30 lb/min wheel:
![](http://www.boostedmiata.com/random/t3_vs_t25_wheel.jpg)
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I know i could have gotten more power with less fuel and more timing, b ut i didnt go agressive at all because i know i will be retuning soon for water meth anyway.
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why do you have less spark advance above 5500rpm than before? I don't think you found MBT there so do you have an excuse?
I've found that getting on the dyno when rainy, regarless of correction #'s, always makes the graph look like ****. There's also so much humidity that I don't trust the spark #'s.
Get on the dyno when its nice outside, add some spark up top, and get your AFR spot-on. I had to adjust my IAT/CLT curves a bit to get them perfect so they don't change when its hot or cold out.
I've found that getting on the dyno when rainy, regarless of correction #'s, always makes the graph look like ****. There's also so much humidity that I don't trust the spark #'s.
Get on the dyno when its nice outside, add some spark up top, and get your AFR spot-on. I had to adjust my IAT/CLT curves a bit to get them perfect so they don't change when its hot or cold out.
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Not too bad for the T25 off the SR... But that as said before, that is about the max you want to run on this turbo as it is really only efficient to 14 psi. After that it's all hot air. Nice numbers though. Ever thought about going up to a Pulsar GTi-R T28 w/ S14 T28 compressor housing? They are supposed to be good for extra horsepower over even the S15 T28... Thread: Stock T25/28 Turbo Specs - 240SX Forums (In Post #1)
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I'm saying normally there's a delta of 18-20*F per psi through a turbo. Say you pump it to 15psi but you start dumping in 200*F and little extra airflow volume, you'd only see an extra 20*F at your sensor since the IC does an awesome job removing the extra heat.
It's like when paul made 300rwhp on his monster at 14psi, but at 17psi he only made 10rwhp more, yet he made a good 30rwtq in the mid-range where his turbo was still efficient.
It's like when paul made 300rwhp on his monster at 14psi, but at 17psi he only made 10rwhp more, yet he made a good 30rwtq in the mid-range where his turbo was still efficient.
#18
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Not too bad for the T25 off the SR... But that as said before, that is about the max you want to run on this turbo as it is really only efficient to 14 psi. After that it's all hot air. Nice numbers though. Ever thought about going up to a Pulsar GTi-R T28 w/ S14 T28 compressor housing? They are supposed to be good for extra horsepower over even the S15 T28... Thread: Stock T25/28 Turbo Specs - 240SX Forums (In Post #1)