Wheel hop
#1
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Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,573
Total Cats: 12
From: Hermosa Beach, CA
Wheel hop
I just wanted peoples insight on how they reduced wheel hop? Now with 10 psi of boost, wheel hop is brutal in 1st gear (poor 1.6l diff...), and 2ed gear if its wet. I was just wondering what things are most effictive at reduceing wheel hop? Stiff diff mounts, etc?
#13
Haha.
I already have my golf clubs back there, as well as a combination battery jumper/air compressor and that's already shoved in there quite tightly.
I think there is a set of all season kumho's on it now....
they've got quite a bit of tread too.
Even on wet roads the wheel hop is significant.
-Andrew
I already have my golf clubs back there, as well as a combination battery jumper/air compressor and that's already shoved in there quite tightly.
I think there is a set of all season kumho's on it now....
they've got quite a bit of tread too.
Even on wet roads the wheel hop is significant.
-Andrew
#14
My car's got about as much suspension work as anyone's. I get no hop if I WOT it from a roll in 1st or 2nd, but if I drop the clutch from a dead standstill at 4-5k, it gets nasty sometimes. As long as I slip the clutch very slightly (just to 2-3mph), and then drop it while adding throttle, I can light up 1st like nobody's business. I also get it after hard 1-2 shifts (or used to, not abusing this transmission like that). Upgraded diff mounts are supposed to help a lot.
#16
I'm planning on trying the Comp diff mounts, but for now, I think that slipping the clutch is the only way to go. With stock Hard S suspension and Azenis, I find that a good 3k clutch dump leads to violent wheel hop with my setup.
I'll be able to offer more insight once I get the diff mounts, and when my 6ULs show up, allowing me to mount the 225 RS2s.
I'll be able to offer more insight once I get the diff mounts, and when my 6ULs show up, allowing me to mount the 225 RS2s.
#18
I upgraded to competition diff. mounts when I put a 7" rear-end in to replace the VLSD 6".
Wheel hop is about identical with both diffs (and have had the comp. engine mounts for some time, too). And the transmission-to-sub-frame brace I have makes no difference either.
FWIW, my last three sets of tires have been Azenis, T1-S and T1-R and I have stock bushings.
If you do a search in the engine conversions forum over on M.net, you'll see that a few folks designed and installed new lateral link bars, heim-jointed, that connect the leading edge of the lower control arm to the chassis. This anchors them better and helps prevent oscillations during on-off traction situations.
Wheel hop is about identical with both diffs (and have had the comp. engine mounts for some time, too). And the transmission-to-sub-frame brace I have makes no difference either.
FWIW, my last three sets of tires have been Azenis, T1-S and T1-R and I have stock bushings.
If you do a search in the engine conversions forum over on M.net, you'll see that a few folks designed and installed new lateral link bars, heim-jointed, that connect the leading edge of the lower control arm to the chassis. This anchors them better and helps prevent oscillations during on-off traction situations.
#19
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
more compression valving, less decomp, solid drivetrain mounting points, traction bars. Mike Wolf help my father (and I) immensely on suspension in the 1700hp+ turbo car, and Dad's 900" "King of the hill" car.
There are essentially two school of thought on grip for the road course, and for the drag strip...they two never really cross paths. You want squat on the drag strip.
There are essentially two school of thought on grip for the road course, and for the drag strip...they two never really cross paths. You want squat on the drag strip.
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