What mods to make going stock easier?
#1
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Basically want to turbo my NA8 and worry going back to stock for smog inspection would be a pain in the ****.
Is it hard to de-turbo? If I want to go megasquirt how do I not mess things up so the stock ECU can go back in?
I know this is noob territory and the search noob doesn't reveal the dark secrets and knowledge I am seeking.
Is it hard to de-turbo? If I want to go megasquirt how do I not mess things up so the stock ECU can go back in?
I know this is noob territory and the search noob doesn't reveal the dark secrets and knowledge I am seeking.
#4
Cpt. Slow
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I plug and played your mom last night.
The hardest problem are the injectors, they're the biggest pain when going to stock, although not the most time consuming. I can reek of gas and have them swapped on a 1.6 in about an hour or less, but I find them the most annoying.
Ripping off the turbo isn't the hardest, however if you have decent exhaust (3"), you'll have issues mating any aftermarket header to the exhaust. A custom cat with a stock or 2.25" inlet, and 3" outlet would be needed here, to be replaced with a full 3" test pipe for turbo. Your exhaust will be stupid loud while N/A though, might have issues passing sound.
You could leave any of the intercooler pipes on that don't touch the header or interfere with the intake. Bolt the stock intake on, plug in the stock ECU, and wire the wideband's narrowband emulator into the stock ECU.
The only wiring you need to do for a turbo is the AIT, using two wires in the MAF loom. I'd suggest cutting them down stream of the MAF plug, then for emissions you just unplug the AIT and crimp some spade connectors in to "fix" the stock MAF wiring.
That should be all you need to do.
To summarize: swap injectors, ecu, turbo/downpipe/test pipe, and intake.
The hardest problem are the injectors, they're the biggest pain when going to stock, although not the most time consuming. I can reek of gas and have them swapped on a 1.6 in about an hour or less, but I find them the most annoying.
Ripping off the turbo isn't the hardest, however if you have decent exhaust (3"), you'll have issues mating any aftermarket header to the exhaust. A custom cat with a stock or 2.25" inlet, and 3" outlet would be needed here, to be replaced with a full 3" test pipe for turbo. Your exhaust will be stupid loud while N/A though, might have issues passing sound.
You could leave any of the intercooler pipes on that don't touch the header or interfere with the intake. Bolt the stock intake on, plug in the stock ECU, and wire the wideband's narrowband emulator into the stock ECU.
The only wiring you need to do for a turbo is the AIT, using two wires in the MAF loom. I'd suggest cutting them down stream of the MAF plug, then for emissions you just unplug the AIT and crimp some spade connectors in to "fix" the stock MAF wiring.
That should be all you need to do.
To summarize: swap injectors, ecu, turbo/downpipe/test pipe, and intake.
#10
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Being OBDII it depends on your location. Which you haven't given yet. If you have plug and play emissions it gets harder, you have to swap ECU's where a sniffer test you can get by with a megasquirt (and good tune).
#13
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we have to pass visual for stock smog equipment, tail pipe test, CEL needs to be off and OBD2 will be hooked to the smog machine to verify readiness. Its utah and we have to test every year.
I found the OBD2 test procedures from the gov website but it seems to simple. It seems to suggest my wont need a tail pipe test which may or may not be true.
http://www.utahcounty.gov/apps/WebLi...011final_1.pdf
I found the OBD2 test procedures from the gov website but it seems to simple. It seems to suggest my wont need a tail pipe test which may or may not be true.
http://www.utahcounty.gov/apps/WebLi...011final_1.pdf
Last edited by Guy Farting; 11-30-2014 at 12:24 AM.
#14
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Aftermarket ECU wont pass OBD2 test. And lack of aftermarket ECU will make larger injectors (maybe turbo too) fail sniffer test I believe. No idea about the visual test.
#15
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Sniffer is pretty easy to pass, just lean it out at 10* idle. It's pretty unhappy unless it's really warm and conditions are otherwise perfect, although this was back in my RX-7 injector days, the RX-8 ones might be happier idling at 15.0.
Edit: but that's all a moot point, you'll need the stock ECU for the OBD2 reader.
Edit: but that's all a moot point, you'll need the stock ECU for the OBD2 reader.
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It's every 2 years here in ct. I open my wastegate, unblock my EGR, swap to stock ECU, MAF, Injectors, and o2s and then drive enough to get my readiness codes to be okay. It's a pain in the *** but not too bad.
#20
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How long does it take to do? from my naive point of view it shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. Where are the difficult parts and hang ups one runs into?
I want a simple budget build. Either weld myself an elbow manifold or buy a cast. Would like to go with a GT2560R or find a cheap TD04 megasquirt intercooled.
200WHP would be my goal 250WHP would be amazing. Min spec would be able to at least beat a minivan.
I want a simple budget build. Either weld myself an elbow manifold or buy a cast. Would like to go with a GT2560R or find a cheap TD04 megasquirt intercooled.
200WHP would be my goal 250WHP would be amazing. Min spec would be able to at least beat a minivan.