Voodoo Box help?
#1
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A buddy just had his VoodooII installed and I know nothing about them.
I just read through the FM Instructions http://flyinmiata.com/support/instru...Voodoo_Box.pdf
and they're decent, but who's got some time spent with one of these things and can just give me a little rundown on how to get a decent tune out of it?
Specifically,
What do you do about timing? Do you need set the base a little lower? I assume even with the added fuel, you've gotta retard the base at least a few degrees even with 93octane. And how does the timing wheel work?
Are there idle problems associated specifically with Voodoo boxes?
I just read through the FM Instructions http://flyinmiata.com/support/instru...Voodoo_Box.pdf
and they're decent, but who's got some time spent with one of these things and can just give me a little rundown on how to get a decent tune out of it?
Specifically,
What do you do about timing? Do you need set the base a little lower? I assume even with the added fuel, you've gotta retard the base at least a few degrees even with 93octane. And how does the timing wheel work?
Are there idle problems associated specifically with Voodoo boxes?
#2
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Come on foolz, if you clicked on this thread, you know something!
Also, I read that the Voodoo doesn't like stepping up to 305's... something regarding idle. I don't buy it, but what's the possibility of bigger injectors to get a little more headroom... not necessarily looking for more boost, but so you can dial down the pots a little and not be maxing out it's capabilities.
Also, I read that the Voodoo doesn't like stepping up to 305's... something regarding idle. I don't buy it, but what's the possibility of bigger injectors to get a little more headroom... not necessarily looking for more boost, but so you can dial down the pots a little and not be maxing out it's capabilities.
#3
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What year is the car?
I ran one on my '99 for a good while. They're super easy to tune. I haven't seen much luck with idling 305s though. I ran stock injectors until i went megasquirt. I can explain some of the tuning though. Let me go through the instructions again quick.
For timing on 99+ they include a timing wheel that retards the base timing on the crank pulley. 90-97 you need to retard the base timing like with any other bandaid.
I'm pretty sure the timing wheel allows up to 6* of retard on the base timing. It is this piece right? http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=07-91000
There are no idle issues with the voodoo box with stock injectors unless you don't set it up right and have it adding fuel at idle.
I ran one on my '99 for a good while. They're super easy to tune. I haven't seen much luck with idling 305s though. I ran stock injectors until i went megasquirt. I can explain some of the tuning though. Let me go through the instructions again quick.
For timing on 99+ they include a timing wheel that retards the base timing on the crank pulley. 90-97 you need to retard the base timing like with any other bandaid.
I'm pretty sure the timing wheel allows up to 6* of retard on the base timing. It is this piece right? http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=07-91000
There are no idle issues with the voodoo box with stock injectors unless you don't set it up right and have it adding fuel at idle.
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It's a '97. He came over just now and I checked the timing... looks like the shop he had it installed at adjusted the timing without jumping the diagnostics port. I jumped it and set the idle to 850 and my timing gun was showing it to be around 4*... something to fix on Saturday. I'm not a 1.8 guy and he damn CAS bolt looked like a **** to reach.
Overall, I was impressed with the harware. The manifold didn't look as "heavy" as my Begi piece, but it sure looked easier to get the turbo on and off... and everything was brand new. I think FM could engineer the backside of their heat shield to mate closer to the block. It looked like all the heat from the turbine would simply be focused through the gap right there next to the heater core lines. The routing of everything was done right, and their cold-side pipe is the seXx.
I hope somebody on Saturday has Voodoo experience. The pots look pretty simple, but there's no excuse for prior knowledge to speed things up.
Overall, I was impressed with the harware. The manifold didn't look as "heavy" as my Begi piece, but it sure looked easier to get the turbo on and off... and everything was brand new. I think FM could engineer the backside of their heat shield to mate closer to the block. It looked like all the heat from the turbine would simply be focused through the gap right there next to the heater core lines. The routing of everything was done right, and their cold-side pipe is the seXx.
I hope somebody on Saturday has Voodoo experience. The pots look pretty simple, but there's no excuse for prior knowledge to speed things up.
#6
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If you want to talk about it I can tell you more but the instructions explain it really well.
As for the 1.8 CAS bolt. Just reach down in there with a 13-15mm wrench between the coil pack and CAS. That or reach around from the bottom.
How could you let your friend go voodoo instead of MS man.
As for the 1.8 CAS bolt. Just reach down in there with a 13-15mm wrench between the coil pack and CAS. That or reach around from the bottom.
How could you let your friend go voodoo instead of MS man.
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Just me the guy... good dude, just didn't get to him soon enough! And he's gotta worry about emissions here in Virginia.
Roger that on the CAS, I just picked up a set of GearWrench ratcheting box-ends... they are truly the seXxYy... we'll get it taken care of.
What about 305's w/Voodoo?
Roger that on the CAS, I just picked up a set of GearWrench ratcheting box-ends... they are truly the seXxYy... we'll get it taken care of.
What about 305's w/Voodoo?
#9
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Back when I was going to go with the voodooII I looked into the idle 305 thing and got many mixed reactions. If I remember correctly people said it would most likely run, but be a little rough at idle, while some people said it would be fine. There are probably some old threads where I was asking tons of questions identical to this, but I seem to have forgotten the exact conclusion i came to.
All I know is that after lots of reading, I planned to install the voodoo box, bipes, 305's and hopefully have a strong setup with ok idle on a 97, but that plan didn't quite come to fruition...
All I know is that after lots of reading, I planned to install the voodoo box, bipes, 305's and hopefully have a strong setup with ok idle on a 97, but that plan didn't quite come to fruition...
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#10
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My 96 idles just fine w/ 305'cc's > maybe a tad rich but nothing to worry about.
The Cas is a 12mm, all you'll need is a good boxed end wrench.
IIRC, one of the pots are for adjusting the onset of boost. Voodoo doesn't affect idle, only works it's Voodoo in boost...
Also, I thought the wheel was for the +99???? On the 90-97 you can just set the timing via the diagnostic port and CAS, so I doubt you'll need it.
The Cas is a 12mm, all you'll need is a good boxed end wrench.
IIRC, one of the pots are for adjusting the onset of boost. Voodoo doesn't affect idle, only works it's Voodoo in boost...
Also, I thought the wheel was for the +99???? On the 90-97 you can just set the timing via the diagnostic port and CAS, so I doubt you'll need it.
#16
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That's not very wise, you can get a LC1 and panel meter for less than $200 and you can get a AEM UEGO for $245 shipped from Nester on the forum. Kelly@Speedware also sells both products.
I have the AEM and recommend it. $250 is alot cheaper than an engine rebuild. Using the suggested settings FM recommends on the voodoo box left me dangerously lean. You can tune it without a wideband man, thats just the way it is.
I have the AEM and recommend it. $250 is alot cheaper than an engine rebuild. Using the suggested settings FM recommends on the voodoo box left me dangerously lean. You can tune it without a wideband man, thats just the way it is.
#17
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That's not very wise, you can get a LC1 and panel meter for less than $200 and you can get a AEM UEGO for $245 shipped from Nester on the forum. Kelly@Speedware also sells both products.
I have the AEM and recommend it. $250 is alot cheaper than an engine rebuild. Using the suggested settings FM recommends on the voodoo box left me dangerously lean. You can tune it without a wideband man, thats just the way it is.
I have the AEM and recommend it. $250 is alot cheaper than an engine rebuild. Using the suggested settings FM recommends on the voodoo box left me dangerously lean. You can tune it without a wideband man, thats just the way it is.
thanks
#19
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FWIW, I used to run my T25 with the JRPC (& stock injectors) @ 8psi. The JRPC and Voodoo were developed by the same people, and technically- they are pretty close.
It was very simple, and it worked, but when you thirst for more boost comes, different solutions need to be sought...
It was very simple, and it worked, but when you thirst for more boost comes, different solutions need to be sought...
That's not very wise, you can get a LC1 and panel meter for less than $200 and you can get a AEM UEGO for $245 shipped from Nester on the forum. Kelly@Speedware also sells both products.
I have the AEM and recommend it. $250 is alot cheaper than an engine rebuild. Using the suggested settings FM recommends on the voodoo box left me dangerously lean. You can tune it without a wideband man, thats just the way it is.
I have the AEM and recommend it. $250 is alot cheaper than an engine rebuild. Using the suggested settings FM recommends on the voodoo box left me dangerously lean. You can tune it without a wideband man, thats just the way it is.
thanks guys
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Does anybody know if the Voodoo will react badly for some reason to larger than stock injectors? It'll work with NA 1.6 and 1.8, and NB 1.8... which are all different sizes... don't know why it wouldn't work with 305's. It won't affect the idle... anybody???