TWIN SCROLL TD05HR-16G6-10.5T The Franken-Turbo Build
#1
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TWIN SCROLL TD05HR-16G6-10.5T The Franken-Turbo Build
This was my winter project. First a little backround. A while back I was researching kinda similar the EVO motor was to the one I built. Mitsubishi Heavy Industries (MHI) builds a great turbo. Their OE and aftermarket products are well designed and supported. I ended up buying a low milage TD05HR off an EVO 8 MR. Here's some info I found:
Compressor: 68mm Inconel Alloy
Flow Rates: 550cfm (@ 2:1 Pressure Ratio)
580cfm @ 15psi
40-42 lbs/min
HP: 365-380 @ 22psi
For comparison the Garrett 2560R, from what I could find flows @35 lbs/min.
* "10.5" refers to the surface area of the turbine inlet nozzle in sq cm.
** (max HP capability is roughly lbs/min x 10)
As usual I would take the above with a grain of salt. So basically I'm taking a turbo capable of about 300+ hp and putting in a car that weighs about 800 less.
I bought the turbo for $350 off ebay.
I found a guy on Craig's List who had an EVO 8 tublar manifold and 3" stainless exhaust for $325. These were made be XS Power. The tube thickness is 2.7mm. Not steam pipe, but not bad.
The EVO and the BP4W are really close and I used 45 degree weld el's to complete the transition to the Miata head. Welded inside and out, then sanded inside for max flow.
Next, I had to flip the flange the turbo bolts to 180 degrees so the down pipe went the right direction. And continue the twin scroll section (1&4 and 2&3).
Next I turned my OCD to porting and polishing the turbo.
Did what I could on the compressor side.
Opened the wastegate as much as possible for high pressure stability.
I had to change the bracket for the wastegate because it was too close to the engine.
(stay tuned, more to come)
Compressor: 68mm Inconel Alloy
Flow Rates: 550cfm (@ 2:1 Pressure Ratio)
580cfm @ 15psi
40-42 lbs/min
HP: 365-380 @ 22psi
For comparison the Garrett 2560R, from what I could find flows @35 lbs/min.
* "10.5" refers to the surface area of the turbine inlet nozzle in sq cm.
** (max HP capability is roughly lbs/min x 10)
As usual I would take the above with a grain of salt. So basically I'm taking a turbo capable of about 300+ hp and putting in a car that weighs about 800 less.
I bought the turbo for $350 off ebay.
I found a guy on Craig's List who had an EVO 8 tublar manifold and 3" stainless exhaust for $325. These were made be XS Power. The tube thickness is 2.7mm. Not steam pipe, but not bad.
The EVO and the BP4W are really close and I used 45 degree weld el's to complete the transition to the Miata head. Welded inside and out, then sanded inside for max flow.
Next, I had to flip the flange the turbo bolts to 180 degrees so the down pipe went the right direction. And continue the twin scroll section (1&4 and 2&3).
Next I turned my OCD to porting and polishing the turbo.
Did what I could on the compressor side.
Opened the wastegate as much as possible for high pressure stability.
I had to change the bracket for the wastegate because it was too close to the engine.
(stay tuned, more to come)
#5
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The oxy/acetylene was just used for heating bending stuff. I sources Haynes for the tig wire, it is inconel alloy. I felt it had better heat cycling characteristics and a lot tougher than 308-309.
#7
Ah that is smart! I have a oxy/ace rig but I only use it for cutting and heating a stubborn knuckle on a Dana 30 front axle. I did stick weld with it once just to see if I could its not pretty but it is possible.
My welding skills are not good, I have a 200amp arc, 180 amp MIG with gas and a 110 volt mig.
I keep thinking I will take a welding class at the community college some winter and never have.
My welding skills are not good, I have a 200amp arc, 180 amp MIG with gas and a 110 volt mig.
I keep thinking I will take a welding class at the community college some winter and never have.
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Next I moved on to hotside stuff. Had to relocate the O2 sensor bung.
Attaching the V-band.
The downpipe and new bung hole.
With the 3" exhaust, there was more than enough material to make 95% of the whole system. Amazingly, the down pipe, bends past the trans, over the axel,etc was an easy puzzle to piece together. I wrapped the down pipe and most of the underside.
Here's how I mounted the down pipe to the trans.
The header was next.
Here's over the axle and out the back. I had to buy the 90.
The muffler is a Dynomax VT
Before assembly I felt it necessary to add an additional support for the turbo. One side of the bracket bolts to the motor mount and the other off the turbo.
So with three different supports holding up the turbo/exhaust, I feel good about the support system.
Attaching the V-band.
The downpipe and new bung hole.
With the 3" exhaust, there was more than enough material to make 95% of the whole system. Amazingly, the down pipe, bends past the trans, over the axel,etc was an easy puzzle to piece together. I wrapped the down pipe and most of the underside.
Here's how I mounted the down pipe to the trans.
The header was next.
Here's over the axle and out the back. I had to buy the 90.
The muffler is a Dynomax VT
Before assembly I felt it necessary to add an additional support for the turbo. One side of the bracket bolts to the motor mount and the other off the turbo.
So with three different supports holding up the turbo/exhaust, I feel good about the support system.
#12
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Hi Reggie, This one is considered the last version ("8.5") before they went to the EVO 9. It came off a MR. There is debate about the 9 being any better than the 8.5. Physically the compressor 8.5 is similar to the 2560, whereas the 9 is noticeably bigger than the 8.5. I have all kinds of pics of the two, but for me the MHI cold side is a better design and flows more air. The 2560 is a great turbo, but when you go built, you can use more air flow at the top.
There is no question that the EFR's are the bench mark for our cars, but I didn't understand why you didn't see more people choosing MHI products. There's a lot of models to choose from, easy to rebuild, well supported from the aftermarket community.
The VT muffler is great at idle, not drone-y at cruze. People out side the car says it sounds fine at full throttle. From the drivers seat I could personally do with a more aggressive note. We'll have to work on that......
-JB
There is no question that the EFR's are the bench mark for our cars, but I didn't understand why you didn't see more people choosing MHI products. There's a lot of models to choose from, easy to rebuild, well supported from the aftermarket community.
The VT muffler is great at idle, not drone-y at cruze. People out side the car says it sounds fine at full throttle. From the drivers seat I could personally do with a more aggressive note. We'll have to work on that......
-JB
#13
Hi Reggie, This one is considered the last version ("8.5") before they went to the EVO 9. It came off a MR. There is debate about the 9 being any better than the 8.5. Physically the compressor 8.5 is similar to the 2560, whereas the 9 is noticeably bigger than the 8.5. I have all kinds of pics of the two, but for me the MHI cold side is a better design and flows more air. The 2560 is a great turbo, but when you go built, you can use more air flow at the top.
There is no question that the EFR's are the bench mark for our cars, but I didn't understand why you didn't see more people choosing MHI products. There's a lot of models to choose from, easy to rebuild, well supported from the aftermarket community.
The VT muffler is great at idle, not drone-y at cruze. People out side the car says it sounds fine at full throttle. From the drivers seat I could personally do with a more aggressive note. We'll have to work on that......
-JB
There is no question that the EFR's are the bench mark for our cars, but I didn't understand why you didn't see more people choosing MHI products. There's a lot of models to choose from, easy to rebuild, well supported from the aftermarket community.
The VT muffler is great at idle, not drone-y at cruze. People out side the car says it sounds fine at full throttle. From the drivers seat I could personally do with a more aggressive note. We'll have to work on that......
-JB
#14
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I agree, I like bb turbos too. The trade off for me was (maybe) @350rpms (which I hope to get back with some EBC). I don't remember the cost of having a Garrett cartridge replaced. I'm sure at this point there are companys doing 16G ceramic bb rebuilds.
The point of this for me was to take another well designed/supported platform and apply it to our engines. If there were 50 people who had done this already and said it sucked then I would have thought differently about this. You can count on one hand the number of people using 16G's on this forum and nobody's doing it the way I am.
I'll try to get some spool up data soon. Also if any Chicagoland guys want to meet with Vitural Dyno (my phone is apparently not smart enough) the beers are on me.
-JB
The point of this for me was to take another well designed/supported platform and apply it to our engines. If there were 50 people who had done this already and said it sucked then I would have thought differently about this. You can count on one hand the number of people using 16G's on this forum and nobody's doing it the way I am.
I'll try to get some spool up data soon. Also if any Chicagoland guys want to meet with Vitural Dyno (my phone is apparently not smart enough) the beers are on me.
-JB
#17
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LOL
Six degrees of mt.net
I believe I'm the guy that ended up with your wheels.
Still a few things to do.
Set the wastegate (14lbs)
All the hardware is inconel (woo-hoo), a little Resbond before assembly.
I used this for the drain back to the pan.
I still had to fab up the intercooler outlet off the turbo. I got super lucky and found the coolant outlet was exactly the right diameter and bolt pattern.
Six degrees of mt.net
I believe I'm the guy that ended up with your wheels.
Still a few things to do.
Set the wastegate (14lbs)
All the hardware is inconel (woo-hoo), a little Resbond before assembly.
I used this for the drain back to the pan.
I still had to fab up the intercooler outlet off the turbo. I got super lucky and found the coolant outlet was exactly the right diameter and bolt pattern.