Turbo prepping
#1
Turbo prepping
Hey guys I finally gave up the 1.6 turbo and picked up a 1.8 from a 2000 NB. I'm slowly gathering parts to turbo the engine. Any other parts should be included to turbo this stock motor?
The parts I have so far are:
Engine Management:
Megasquirt PNPv2
Fueling:
Injector Dynamics 1000cc
Deatschwerks 200 fuel pump
Stock FPR (should I use an aftermarket?)
Electronics:
Innovate mtx-l wideband
Autometer boost gauge
Apexi AVCR electronic boost controller
Toyota cops (wired for a 1.6)
Drivetrain:
ACT clutch
Resurfaced Stock 1.8 clutch
94 driveshaft, axles, differential (open), 96 transmission.
Engine:
00' 1.8 head and block
FM swap kit
arp head studs
Custom intake manifold (hellafab)
Fab 9 solid motor mounts
Turbo:
BorgWarner EFR 6758 IWG
Fab9 stage 1 intercooler
Ebay IC piping
Turbosmart BOV
Trackspeed Engineering stud kit
Exhaust:
3" full exhauat
Equal length header turbo manifold (hellafab), bottom mount.
Cooling:
KOYO radiator (r series) from fab9
Custom coolant reroute (followed the write up from rev limiter)
Ebay slim fans w/shroud
Misc:
Fel pro Headgasket Kit (hahaha)
Fel pro rear main seal
Rotella t6 oil
Generic synthetic trans and diff oil
Generic oil filter
Generic fuel filter
BKR7E NGK Iridium spark plugs
Crankshaft bolt
Woodruff key
Is it necessary for a lighter flywheel? What about a SuperMiata HB? Do I really need to upgrade the fuel rail or fuel pressure regulator? Do I need to run a coolant temp, oil temp gauge, or anything else?
My power goal is to hit 250rwhp. I've been reading anything pass that is a higher chance of blowing something.
The parts I have so far are:
Engine Management:
Megasquirt PNPv2
Fueling:
Injector Dynamics 1000cc
Deatschwerks 200 fuel pump
Stock FPR (should I use an aftermarket?)
Electronics:
Innovate mtx-l wideband
Autometer boost gauge
Apexi AVCR electronic boost controller
Toyota cops (wired for a 1.6)
Drivetrain:
ACT clutch
Resurfaced Stock 1.8 clutch
94 driveshaft, axles, differential (open), 96 transmission.
Engine:
00' 1.8 head and block
FM swap kit
arp head studs
Custom intake manifold (hellafab)
Fab 9 solid motor mounts
Turbo:
BorgWarner EFR 6758 IWG
Fab9 stage 1 intercooler
Ebay IC piping
Turbosmart BOV
Trackspeed Engineering stud kit
Exhaust:
3" full exhauat
Equal length header turbo manifold (hellafab), bottom mount.
Cooling:
KOYO radiator (r series) from fab9
Custom coolant reroute (followed the write up from rev limiter)
Ebay slim fans w/shroud
Misc:
Fel pro Headgasket Kit (hahaha)
Fel pro rear main seal
Rotella t6 oil
Generic synthetic trans and diff oil
Generic oil filter
Generic fuel filter
BKR7E NGK Iridium spark plugs
Crankshaft bolt
Woodruff key
Is it necessary for a lighter flywheel? What about a SuperMiata HB? Do I really need to upgrade the fuel rail or fuel pressure regulator? Do I need to run a coolant temp, oil temp gauge, or anything else?
My power goal is to hit 250rwhp. I've been reading anything pass that is a higher chance of blowing something.
Last edited by AdoboMiata; 11-23-2014 at 01:41 AM.
#2
lighter flywheel? What about a SuperMiata HB? Do I really need to upgrade the fuel rail or fuel pressure regulator? Do I need to run a coolant temp, oil temp gauge, or anything else?
No, you do not need an upgraded fuel rail or FPR.
Set up megasquirt to alert you if temps get too high, if you don't want gauges.
#6
Definately use 1.8 TPS.
EFR is awfully big without built motor. Transmission will be unhappy at some point (if you go higher). Open diff is sub-optimal.
Megasquirt can control boost. No need for Apexi. (but if it works reliably it isn't a terrible addition)
Not a terrible build list. It's pretty terrifying when looking at the full list of stuff to be done before turbo.
EFR is awfully big without built motor. Transmission will be unhappy at some point (if you go higher). Open diff is sub-optimal.
Megasquirt can control boost. No need for Apexi. (but if it works reliably it isn't a terrible addition)
Not a terrible build list. It's pretty terrifying when looking at the full list of stuff to be done before turbo.
#8
Definately use 1.8 TPS.
EFR is awfully big without built motor. Transmission will be unhappy at some point (if you go higher). Open diff is sub-optimal.
Megasquirt can control boost. No need for Apexi. (but if it works reliably it isn't a terrible addition)
Not a terrible build list. It's pretty terrifying when looking at the full list of stuff to be done before turbo.
EFR is awfully big without built motor. Transmission will be unhappy at some point (if you go higher). Open diff is sub-optimal.
Megasquirt can control boost. No need for Apexi. (but if it works reliably it isn't a terrible addition)
Not a terrible build list. It's pretty terrifying when looking at the full list of stuff to be done before turbo.
#9
As for the rods. Yes they are stock. Let's hope for the best that it doesn't. This car usually sits at home, I bring it out during the weekends or when I am off from work (of course to relieve some stress).
#13
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Yeah. An EFR 6758 is way big for a 250whp goal. You'll have a really hard time not popping the motor even on wastegate boost.
250whp on a good tune on a street car is totally reasonable on a stock motor. With that EFR at 8-10 PSI boost you'll be well over 250 whp most likely.
250whp on a good tune on a street car is totally reasonable on a stock motor. With that EFR at 8-10 PSI boost you'll be well over 250 whp most likely.
#15
Still waiting on a few parts to be shipped, so far I purchased:
Fab9 stage 2 intercooler
Mishimoto oil catch can
Turbosmart bov
Skunk 2 throttle body
Hellafab Race series intake manifold
Hellafab bottom mount turbo manifold
Full 3" exhaust to vibrant muffler
Toda cam gear
Built motor (pending lol)
Fab9 stage 2 intercooler
Mishimoto oil catch can
Turbosmart bov
Skunk 2 throttle body
Hellafab Race series intake manifold
Hellafab bottom mount turbo manifold
Full 3" exhaust to vibrant muffler
Toda cam gear
Built motor (pending lol)
#16
EFR 6258/6758 owners, I'm using TSE stud kit and I am wondering, what are some solutions to get the nut on the stud? The nut won't fit because it's too tall, and I do not want to grind the turbo. The only solution I could think of is use a generic stud and nut that follows the TSE stud kit or drill the turbo flange to create more room.