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Can I swap the heater core inlet and outlets? Like literally run the hose from under the manifold to the left port, and the hose behind the head to the right port?
The line going under the manifold is leaking, and it’s too close to my downpipe for comfort. If i just get a 90* bent hose then i can easily send it straight into the left port and keep it away from my downpipe. The hose that goes behind the head has enough free play to go onto the right port. Seems like it should be fine to swap them right?
This has to be installed in a cooler location and will require longer hoses to connect. That valve fits a bunch of Toyotas, is 5/8 on both sides, will seal off totally, and will hold open or shut without anything else.
From Toyota it is $140, aftermarket as low as $15 and the inexpensive valves seem to work fine. I put them in lots of cars now days (heater control valve are a thing of the past regarding newer cars).
I've found nothing else that works as well as the Toyota valves
It should be installed in the inlet hose (from back of cylinder head).
This will eliminate a 200 degree heat source from inside the car during the summer months.
This is important in Texas, probably Georgia as well...
If you haven't installed a re-route it will most likely blow your head gasket as the heater core itself is the main flow path from the back of the cylinder head in OEM configuration.
I detest worm drive clamps especially on thin *** heater connections. The worm clamps distort the shape of both the hose and the aluminum tube. The tubes can be straightened using 1/4 drive deep sockets of variable diameters and careful manipulation.
The spring clamps (I call them strangle clamps) do not distort the tubes and never loosen. The worm clamps always loosen with age.
Last edited by technicalninja; 06-19-2022 at 11:12 AM.
Reason: clamps
This has to be installed in a cooler location and will require longer hoses to connect. That valve fits a bunch of Toyotas, is 5/8 on both sides, will seal off totally, and will hold open or shut without anything else.
From Toyota it is $140, aftermarket as low as $15 and the inexpensive valves seem to work fine. I put them in lots of cars now days (heater control valve are a thing of the past regarding newer cars).
I've found nothing else that works as well as the Toyota valves It should be installed in the inlet hose (from back of cylinder head).
I put mine in the return line, but made sure the flow arrow was correct. I don't see how it matters which is used, as the pressure in the system is from the static head, and not due to the water pump dynamic head. Allowed me to not have to use an extension to keep it away from the manifold heat.
@Joe Perez Some time back, you asked about the ability of the A/C to cool your Miata (in N/C, I believe). This will help... if you have a re-route.
Note: I plan to log the coolant warm-up curve with this valve on and off, to see if blocking the flow pre-thermostat makes any difference. Full disclosure: I don't remember which thermostat I have, but am pretty sure it has a bypass jiggler.
DNM
Last edited by DNMakinson; 07-29-2022 at 06:03 PM.
Reason: Replace autocorrected "juggler" with "jiggle".