DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Spend $ to switch turbos?

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Old 12-04-2017 | 12:48 PM
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Default Spend $ to switch turbos?

I am sorry that this topic has been beat to death, but I have a really hard time making decisions. I have a stock 1.6 with aem ems, begi mani, and a GT2860rs turbo. I need to pull the turbo anyways to replace gasket and broken exhaust bolt, should I spend the money and replace it with a GT2560r? I think I would really like the additional spool and torque and it might be easier to drive on a wet track if easier to modulate throttle. However, I also have a built 1.6 engine on a stand ready to go for when I destroy this engine, which could be some time. Advice is very much appreciated.
Old 12-04-2017 | 12:54 PM
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Our current setups are strikingly similar im at 15psi and 235hp. For what its worth when i pull the 1.6 im putting in a 6758 vvt motor. If i kept the 1.6 id probably just get the tial housing
Old 12-04-2017 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rotaryjunky
should I spend the money and replace it with a GT2560r? I think I would really like the additional spool and torque and it might be easier to drive on a wet track if easier to modulate throttle.


Imo, I'd think the 2860 would be easier to modulate on a wet track.

With the additional TQ on the lower end you'd gain speed out of corners (dry). May be difficult when wet.
Old 12-04-2017 | 01:08 PM
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My turbo is too big, should I get a smaller one? Also, I might upgrade my engine to potentially make my current turbo relevant, and the smaller turbo too small.

This is impossible for anyone to answer that doesn't know how fast you want to go. Figure out how much power you want to make and put in the motor and turbo that makes sense.
Old 12-04-2017 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Girz0r


Imo, I'd think the 2860 would be easier to modulate on a wet track.
I would disagree but maybe someone with more track time can comment, my 6258 feels attached to my foot.
Old 12-04-2017 | 02:10 PM
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check his other thread so you don't waste time with this rtrd
Old 12-04-2017 | 02:15 PM
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Agreed with Lexzar, I would think the easiest modulating setup would be the ability to produce full boost at all points on the track, and have a good TPS based boost control strategy. Having less torque in one corner could give a false sense of security in another corner with a slightly higher speed.

OP, I think you just need to assess your power goals, and what's most important. There are plenty of dyno plots of 2560's, and I'd assume for 2860's as well. Are you going to get bored of 2560 power? Do you value spool and consistency over peak power? Do you have a budget? Maybe the answer is keeping it cheap for now by rebuilding the 2860, then spring for an EFR setup down the road.
Old 12-04-2017 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Lexzar
I would disagree but maybe someone with more track time can comment, my 6258 feels attached to my foot.
I get what you're saying in an 'instant sense'. My guessing logic was more towards WOT driving on track vs have a nimble foot. I'm all for the 6258. A skilled track driver would have no problem with modulation.
Old 12-04-2017 | 03:52 PM
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Thank (most of) you! I used to be on here a lot and considering my general ignorance, age, and lack of time online studying opinions, I know what to expect. I have no difficulty at all modulating my 16 GT, even on the wet, because of the torque curve. I am used to the miata but I am either on boost and shifting midcorner (3rd gear)(6speed tranny) or transitioning to boost mid corner (4th gear). Its fun either way, just considering that I might be able to pick up a little speed on corner exit. Not too concerned with peak power, so I guess I'm answering my own question. Built the motor because it was there and we needed something to do. Thanks again.
Old 12-04-2017 | 11:39 PM
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I have just changed to an 1800 using the same 2860rs turbo from the past 3 years competition with the 1600. The increase in torque IS significant and i presume similar to what you would gain by moving in to the smaller turbo.

The additional torque the 1800 gains form that turbo makes the car a lot harder to drive in terms of controlling wheel spin exiting corners. I have serious concerns about wet weather and will need to start planning around that in the next few months (we are just hitting summer now).

I'm sure it's not directly comparable but the 2860 in the 1600 was a dream to drive (really easy) as the torque and power tended to hit post corner, dropping to 12 ish psi in wet conditions and waste gate 9/10 ish in very wet was about perfect.

I know MT wisdom will say the smaller turbo is better suited but I think your question is very relevant and the 2860 a better choice IF wet weather performance is a factor as you ask.

Of course your driving ability, diff ratio suspension, tyres, ignition timing, switchable boost map capability etc will also play big factors.




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