The car has been smoking periodically for the past couple weeks here and there. It usually does it when I start it up at idle, and when I'm driving I can sometimes see it.

Well I just changed the oil and let it warm up and it seems like its smoking worse than before (I've run 10-30 Mobil 1 since I got the car in 2004). The smoke looks blue as if its an oil issue.

I checked the antifreeze and it looks fine. When I changed the oil, everything looked normal and black.

I did however notice that the line on my PCV valve is a little loose. Could this be the problem? I think I actually might have a spare somewhere around here, but I'm not sure. I just remember talk about PCV valves causing this problem before.

I'm getting ready to hop in the shower and head out for the night, but if its possible that I can fix this before I go that would be great.

Any ideas?

 

If the PVC valve is the culprate then its either shoving oil into your intake and running through your charge pipes and getting burned and then smoke or oil can go the other way directly into the intake the get burned and smoke!

seals could be bad in the turbo which would cause it to smoke (i had this problem, it started out not to bad and not often, then got really bad and replace the turbo and it was fixed) you could be getting to much oil to the turbo or your valve seals could be going or your piston rings could be going!

not trying to scare you just giving you the different possibilities!

also your drain turbo oil drain line could be clogged as well!

 

I would take one of your charge pipes off and see if there is an excessive amount of oil. Do you just breath the driver side crankcase to atmosphere or is it plumbed into your intake.

 

Changing the PCV is a pretty darn good start thats quick and cheap.

After that I wonder about valve seals after that.

I had a weird issue once where it would smoke a bit when I boosted it. Turned out to be an oil leak on the DP that would only smoke when there was a bit more heat than normal.

 

/\ This, take the intake pipe off first! the the turbo exit charge pipe!

 

OP if your gonna change your PVC valve get one from a 89 323 turbo! its rated to handle boost!

 

WHAT1!?! That's crazy talk right thar.

Keep in mind Vash that turbo seals are infallible.

I emailed FM about a replacement PCV line, they said they just use standard high pressure line. Don't really know how though, there's no way you're getting 5/16" to slip on, and 3/8" would be loose on the PCV valve. This is dealing with the Mazda 323 valve FM sent me. Maybe they just crank down on the hose clamp. Food for thought.

Check your IC piping and a leakdown/compression test may be in your future.

 

Ok so I just went out and replaced the PCV valve and re-zip tied the hose.

At first there was no smoke and I thought "no ******* way, that's it!"......then it started to smoke again.

Thing is, I was driving the car around today and it wasn't this bad, at all.

Now I changed the oil and its 10x worse.

I'm going to run out and pull the coldside pipe off the IC and take a look. I don't have the time, nor the daylight to get involved with pulling the downpipe tonight.

Just in time to **** me up for the UCONN car show next weekend!

BTW, the PCV valve I took out was labeled E301A, and the one I put in was a PCV1162. I know that I got the one for a 323 turbo when I bought one, I'm just not sure which is which.

Going to pull the IC pipe and I'll report back.

 

I've been patiently waiting for my: "dont say i didnt warn you post"

 

lol

In regards to my ign table?

I pulled the coldside IC pipe and it's dry as a fart. Zero signs of oil. My greddy setup used to sometimes leave some oil residue in the IC pipe, but when I just checked there was none.

Now I'm wondering if ******* around with the car the other night if I did something. My buddy and I were out and he told me that I never did any burnouts or anything cool when he was in the car, so I ripped it up a couple times. The car seemed fine, even days later.

Its just weird that I change the oil and now its smoking wayy more than it did. Like I said, it was just here and there up until right now.

Is 10-30 too thin of oil? I've been using the same oil and filter since I bought the car, so I couldn't imagine that's the case, but maybe whatever was leaking before is leaking even more now with the fresh oil.

I'm wondering if I should even take it out tonight or not. **** me!

 

Just for ***** and giggles, try ditching the PCV system entirely.

 

What exactly do you mean by that?

Pull the line and cap both sides?

 

Cap the nipple on the manifold and vent the PCV and VC breather to atmosphere.

 

Is the turbo blown? Mine smoked when it blew now that it's rebuilt it doesn't smoke any more. GL

 

Time to rip apart the motor and build her up

 

Did you ever run det cans?

I just went back and looked at your map and my god that's out there. I mean holy ****! Is that hustler's map? You're not that much of a man to get away with that. That's like me going out with a supermodel dude...can't pull it off.

I'm pretty sure ragged edge timing is what killed my last motor. Started smoking slowly, just little puffs, and gradually got worse. #2 oil control ring completely compressed. Sucked oil up in vacuum, and pressurized crank case in boost. I kept denying it, but I was pushing it. Fast and fun while it lasted, real pain when it finally started laying down a WWI style smoke screen behind the car. I still haven't sorted all the nagging issues from the motor swap.


EDIT:

Seriously dude. Between the numbers you're laying down and that timing map....I bet the only reason it lasted long enough for the rings to go is because you've got lower compression from your bent rods.

Do a postmortem on that motor and post is up as a lesson. We all WANT 250whp and badass advance out of a stock motor, but it doesn't last long.

Look on the bright side, you're gonna have a build motor to match that work of art Abe made for ya.



EDIT 2:

Sorry, Joe, I didn't mean to scare you, and I really hope it's something else, but man you are on the ragged edge.

 

Tell us about the .035" restrictor on the turbo oil feed.

 

^^^ +1

 

Chaning the oil AFAIK is going to affect viscosity a tiny bit. Dirty stuff will be more 'gloopy'. That a technical term you ********, so lay off

The thinner new oil might be going past turbo seals/ring/valve seals more. If I knew any real specific **** about restrictors I would probably be saying +1 to the restrictor idea, but I dont so I wont. But it might be consistent with the fact that changing the oil affects it so much.

And I guess I say this in every damned thread, but that does not mean I am wrong. Comp test. At least then you have the peace of mind of knowing your rings are not shot.

 

This is just a hypothesis, but where is your oil drain located on your pan? Could it be, when you do an oil change your oil level is a bit too high, and then your oil drain backs up a bit? Then once it's burnt out enough oil, the level drops enough to allow the drain to work properly?