Quick, Help
#1
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Ok, installing my greddy kit w/ intercooler, yadda yadda
I really need a descripion or a picture of where to hook up my boost gauge asap, running out of time. Please!
I asked in diy figureing i might get a quicker response, thanks.
Edit: The gauge is a fm one, -30, to +30psi, with the explosion at 30 psi.
It came with a long black tube, just trying to figure out where exactly to plug it in!
I really need a descripion or a picture of where to hook up my boost gauge asap, running out of time. Please!
I asked in diy figureing i might get a quicker response, thanks.
Edit: The gauge is a fm one, -30, to +30psi, with the explosion at 30 psi.
It came with a long black tube, just trying to figure out where exactly to plug it in!
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THANKS A TON, ONE MOre question, though it should go in greddy chat, ill just ask it here.
Ok, greddy normal oil return (non tapped pan) Where the hell is this suppose to hook up to?, i know its on the pass side of the engine block- does anyone have picture of this, or a good description, thanks,.
Ok, greddy normal oil return (non tapped pan) Where the hell is this suppose to hook up to?, i know its on the pass side of the engine block- does anyone have picture of this, or a good description, thanks,.
#8
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Do you mean the wastegate actuator itself?
The wastegate is actuated by boost pressure. You must hook up a vaccum line to the wastegate the same as the boost gauge and BOV and FPR.
You can see the wastegate actuator in this picture with a small piece of silicone hose attached to the nippple on the can. It is often recommended that the source for this hose come off the manifold... I don't know if the Greddy compressor housing has a nipple built in, but a lot of turbos have a nipple directly on the housing as you can see the nipple on the DSM T25 housing in the pic.
The wastegate is actuated by boost pressure. You must hook up a vaccum line to the wastegate the same as the boost gauge and BOV and FPR.
You can see the wastegate actuator in this picture with a small piece of silicone hose attached to the nippple on the can. It is often recommended that the source for this hose come off the manifold... I don't know if the Greddy compressor housing has a nipple built in, but a lot of turbos have a nipple directly on the housing as you can see the nipple on the DSM T25 housing in the pic.
Last edited by samnavy; 08-01-2007 at 09:35 PM.
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what do you mean? are you asking where you source signal for the can (there are a few places, you can play around to see if any work better than others)? or what device can be between the source and can (boost control)?
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WOW thank you guys so ******* much. Just got back from some... lets say spirited driving.
Just spins second at 5 psi, great
it was more than i expected to say the least.
Its cold here, and i never got to get my bipes in this weekend, im running about 5 psi on 10 deg timing, on 91 oct gas and with an intercooler, im gonna listen for knocking, but dont expect to hear any.
Just spins second at 5 psi, great
it was more than i expected to say the least.
Its cold here, and i never got to get my bipes in this weekend, im running about 5 psi on 10 deg timing, on 91 oct gas and with an intercooler, im gonna listen for knocking, but dont expect to hear any.
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Those settings should do you fine for a few months until it gets warmer. A Bipes will solve all your timing/knock problems when they do show up.
Take it easy on the clutch... too much "spirited" driving, even at 5psi will soon see you slipping.
The argument on manifold or housing for the tap is due to the pressure loss over the IC. If you tap the manifold, you'll see an honest regulation of the wastegate of pressure where it counts the most (going into the engine). Pressure at the manifold will always be less than at the compressor outlet due to the IC. Some people swear that the boost is also "smoother" at the manifold and helps to regulate any spike or fluctuation at the compressor.
However, there are lots of stock application cars (DSM's) that tap directly off the compressor and run just fine.
Either way, it is recommended by most people if you're looking for a uniform way to tune and get the most consistant results, that you tap your BOV/Wastegate/Gauge all at the same place.
Take it easy on the clutch... too much "spirited" driving, even at 5psi will soon see you slipping.
The argument on manifold or housing for the tap is due to the pressure loss over the IC. If you tap the manifold, you'll see an honest regulation of the wastegate of pressure where it counts the most (going into the engine). Pressure at the manifold will always be less than at the compressor outlet due to the IC. Some people swear that the boost is also "smoother" at the manifold and helps to regulate any spike or fluctuation at the compressor.
However, there are lots of stock application cars (DSM's) that tap directly off the compressor and run just fine.
Either way, it is recommended by most people if you're looking for a uniform way to tune and get the most consistant results, that you tap your BOV/Wastegate/Gauge all at the same place.
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there are others who swear that the shortest length of tube to the actuator performs best. My actuator is sourced off the compressor nipple. It works fine, and to me seems better than routing a long hose across the engine. Everything else (bov, gauge, map) comes from the intake mani.
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