Overboosting&Porting Wastegate on 2560R - recommendations?
#1
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Hey all, running into some boost creep issues when temps get in the 60’s. Basically can’t run the car WOT at night, and it’s getting a little annoying.
I’m running a FM turbo manifold with a 2560r, going to a 3in downpipe, and custom 3in exhaust all the way back. Catless. Soooo, too much flow for that 90 degree to handle.
My tuner (hey Shane!) mentioned getting the wastegate ported, and from the research I’ve done here, seems like many others have ported their 2560r’s.
Are there any reputable shops that you guys trust with this? Otherwise I can call around town to see if there’s any performance or machine shops that could do it for me.
I’m running a FM turbo manifold with a 2560r, going to a 3in downpipe, and custom 3in exhaust all the way back. Catless. Soooo, too much flow for that 90 degree to handle.
My tuner (hey Shane!) mentioned getting the wastegate ported, and from the research I’ve done here, seems like many others have ported their 2560r’s.
Are there any reputable shops that you guys trust with this? Otherwise I can call around town to see if there’s any performance or machine shops that could do it for me.
Last edited by 18tyweslow; 06-15-2023 at 03:50 PM.
#5
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#6
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Whoa whoa whoa, EBC is a key detail here, before you go porting your turbo... make sure your EBC settings are correct -- it took me a lot of trial and error to get EBC to be consistent, let alone consistent with weather changes. What happens when not using EBC and relying on just the wastegate?
I could retest, but I'm fairly certain this is the case.
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Exactly. The issue is totally EBC.
I solved the type of problem you discuss by adding D to slow things down when boost comes too quickly (like cold weather).
if you are running 1.5.2, you can SD card record individual contributions of P, I, and D. This is helpful in troubleshooting.
Ted (above) has been know to do remote tune work, I understand.
I solved the type of problem you discuss by adding D to slow things down when boost comes too quickly (like cold weather).
if you are running 1.5.2, you can SD card record individual contributions of P, I, and D. This is helpful in troubleshooting.
Ted (above) has been know to do remote tune work, I understand.
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Exactly. The issue is totally EBC.
I solved the type of problem you discuss by adding D to slow things down when boost comes too quickly (like cold weather).
if you are running 1.5.2, you can SD card record individual contributions of P, I, and D. This is helpful in troubleshooting.
Ted (above) has been know to do remote tune work, I understand.
I solved the type of problem you discuss by adding D to slow things down when boost comes too quickly (like cold weather).
if you are running 1.5.2, you can SD card record individual contributions of P, I, and D. This is helpful in troubleshooting.
Ted (above) has been know to do remote tune work, I understand.
Most of my over boosting happens right when shifting at WOT, and in higher gears (3/4th).
Maybe my problem would be solved by trying to get it tuned closed loop? Not sure what my best course of action is here - I'm not sure how to tune boost control myself. I might ask Shane from AIM to do closed loop for me.
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@18psi Might a Manual Boost Controller be a good approach?
I don’t know how much throttle control of torque one loses with MBC as I’ve never driven a car with one.
18tyweslow, have you considered MBC?
DNM
I don’t know how much throttle control of torque one loses with MBC as I’ve never driven a car with one.
18tyweslow, have you considered MBC?
DNM
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Yes closed loop would be the way to go and will open the PID options, would be the best way to target overshoot and get it under control ---- there is a lot of info out there on what P I and D each do, I can't remember off the top of my head, but that is my recommendation on how to fix it
Manual boost controller could work too, but I found that it would vary based on temperatrure too and might run in to the same problem unless you undershoot boost target so that as temp drops you aren't going above your limit
TL/DR: Closed loop PID settings, start from basically nothing and make small changes -- again, it took me a lot of trial and error. But the info is out there, start reading
Manual boost controller could work too, but I found that it would vary based on temperatrure too and might run in to the same problem unless you undershoot boost target so that as temp drops you aren't going above your limit
TL/DR: Closed loop PID settings, start from basically nothing and make small changes -- again, it took me a lot of trial and error. But the info is out there, start reading
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use basic, drop sensitivity slider to a low number and gradually increase till you are hitting your targets but stable, reduce "lower limit threshold" to 25 or less (this is the #1 cause over overshoot, and a mistake I see in almost every tune), populate the bias table with your open loop table values, set your minimum DC to a real number like 30 (most EBCs don't work predictably below ~ 30%, they don't work at all under about 20-25%), configure your target table, start low across the board (but keep in mind you minimum available target will be roughly WG/(1 - DC) which for a 7psi actuator and 30% minimum DC will be 7psi/(1 - 0.3) = 10psi, tune each change in the table before adding a new value, increase target at higher TPS values iteratively until you have your maximum target in the top row, revise your bias table based on what closed loop achieves for a given operating point except remove a couple/few percent (to account for changes in environmental conditions)
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Exactly. The issue is totally EBC.
I solved the type of problem you discuss by adding D to slow things down when boost comes too quickly (like cold weather).
if you are running 1.5.2, you can SD card record individual contributions of P, I, and D. This is helpful in troubleshooting.
Ted (above) has been know to do remote tune work, I understand.
I solved the type of problem you discuss by adding D to slow things down when boost comes too quickly (like cold weather).
if you are running 1.5.2, you can SD card record individual contributions of P, I, and D. This is helpful in troubleshooting.
Ted (above) has been know to do remote tune work, I understand.
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Data Logging / SD Card Datalogging: Then add Log Field Selection to the selected side... pid_log_boos1_p, pid_log_boos1_i, pid_log_boos1_d (and maybe count)
Then when you SD log (do you know how?) you will see these on the log. To get the total duty cycle at any particular time, add the bias (from your table), the p, i, and d. But the primary information is a snapshot of how the controller is responding to the transient conditions.
DNM
Then when you SD log (do you know how?) you will see these on the log. To get the total duty cycle at any particular time, add the bias (from your table), the p, i, and d. But the primary information is a snapshot of how the controller is responding to the transient conditions.
DNM