Sorry, it isn't particularly easy to install or tune, unless you go with a premade plug-n'-play unit like those from Kingofl337. And it will mean dyno time without a wideband.

Also, any exhaust shop will not build you a downpipe now do you want them to. Most shops use crushbent exhaust pipe and that is not the way to go for downpipes. You need someone who will use mandrel bent pipes to fabricate you one. The crushed bends are killer on flow and create bottlenecks in a very important part of your system.

No, the megasquirt can idle and control any size injector you throw out it. The smartest thing to do with an aftermarket ECU is to choose an injector large enough to support your HP goals.

The reason we use FMUs on low boost situations is because it's simple and works. The only thing the FMU does is increase the flow capacity of your injectors (by raising fuel pressures), so the ECU can still idle them, but in boost when the FMU clamps down they can support higher HP.

this was my goal when I started this project to. but then I read alot of things like whats in this thread, and other peoples setups, then I realized if Im going to build my own setup I might as well build for 10psi and shoot for 7psi since that was my wastegate...

I was going to go with a fmu and bipes and seems like if you get the right injectors, its rock solid.

So if I go with fmu and bipes, can I use the stock 1.8 injectors?
Are the fmu and bipes pretty easy to tune?
From what I've read, it's just plug and play pretty much. Change a disc on the fmu and just plug in the bipes. Am I right?

The Bipes has some dipswitches that allow rough tuning for pulling timing. They need to be messed with, so it isn't just plugging it in.

An FMU needs initial tuning, be it with a disc (Vortech FMU) or needle valve (BEGi/Cartech FMU).

To turbo a car takes more than plugging in the right pieces. You need to understand what is going and how the power is made. Well, that is if you want to be making power ;)

If you truly are only looking for 7psi, then you might consider water injection over an intercooler. The Devil's Own Group Buy kit costs the same as a decent IC setup and gives you great adjustability without the need to engineer or install an IC.

If you've got the standard DSM T25, it's a .48/.49. A DP to fit the Mitsu 3-bolt turbine housing is something that nobody makes. You'll have to have one custom fabricated. However, if you found a standard T2 turbine housing in .49 (square inlet and 5-bolt DP), then everybody makes DP's for that and it will bolt straight on to your CHRA. If you do find one, let me know... I need too!

Thanks Atlanta93le, that was a really fast response.

Looks like the bipes and fmu tuning is easier than the alternative.

I really wanted to plug and play darn it.

It's the way I'm going to begin with. BEGi FMU and Bipes, along with whatever other band-aid fixes I may implement along the way. But I'm under no illusions that there won't be more band aids!

Samnavy: I've already bought the dsm t25 so I guess i'm stuck with it. Maybe I could but a mandrel bent pipe and a flange and have a shop weld it together for me. I have no idea where to find this stuff but if I find it I'll let you know.

And what's a CHRA?

Center housing rotating assembly. It's the entire center section of the turbo including the wheels/shaft minus the compressor and turbine housing.

As for being stuck with it, whaddya mean?
You could just sell it and solve yourself a big problem. Those stock DSM turbos are cheap (I bought four for under $150 total).

I've been doing some serious homework about the new direction my turbo is going to take. I absolutely love the spool response of the .48/49 DSM turbo. But unless I can find another turbine housing after destroying the one I have, I'm kinda stuck. If I could find one, I'd just spend another $100 and get a working DSM T25 to stick in there.

But I just can't seem to locate one. So, I'm thinking about upgrading to one of the larger SR20det turbos. These are also pretty cheap and would sacrifice only a few 100rpm of spool... any maybe solve my boost overshoot problem.

You should really consider how much trouble and money it's going to be to find some way to hook up that 3-bolt turbine housing to a DP of any quality.

My manifold and downpipe were made by Tony to fit DSM turbos. It's a pretty nice set of pieces. I bought it second-hand unused, so I don't know what it cost the guy to "commission" the set, but it might be worth contacting tony to see about making you something.

Personally, the practically throw-away nature of DSM turbos make it a great choice for a DIY setup, methinks.

I agree with you, but I also think the stock ones are on the small side for my power goals ;)

Ha, well, maybe some day I'll be as insane as you, but not today!

does anyone else see Halcyon spending $1000 on a port and polished 99 head a total waste of money for this low boost turbo setup????The stock engine isnt even breaking a sweat at 7 psi.

Better to run the car at 6-7 psi with an intercooler and either a AFPR/Bipes setup or even a emanage or mega squirt.

The 1.8 injectors are not enough to run boost unless you run a AFPR. People run the 1.8 injectors when they run out of fuel with 1.6 injectors and a afpr setup.

I was going to do the port and polish with or w/o the turbo.
The plan is to have a good running motor n/a. Then slowly collect the parts for the turbo setup. When the setup is complete then I'll install the turbo.

This way I'll have decent enough power so I won't rush on the turbo setup.

Samnavy: will this downpipe attached to this stock eclipse turbo work on the DSM t25 turbo I'm planning on putting in my miata?

That DP will only work if you have a mani that mounts the turbo upside down.
Most turbo manifolds, excluding ramhorn style mani's, have more of a top/side mount style and that DP would be pointing straight up or close to it.
So yes the DP would work as long as you want to shoot flames out of your hood. Otherwise you need to look into something going the other direction and you won't find it in the DSM world.

I knew it was too good to be true.

How about I use a sawall and cut it and have someone weld it back on pointing down? Or is that totally retarded?

Also, how do I get in contact with the guy they call tony?

Alright, see how the turbo in the pic hangs off the bottom of the manifold? Well your miata manifold will orient the turbo so that the d/p would be pointing straight up or sideways. Using those materials and paying someone to cut it up to try to make it work would be worse than buying the materials and starting from scratch. :)

The MR downpipe is made for the DSM turbos. Find one whose counter-part-manifold has cracked and the owner has upgraded. Getting the d/p will be cheap.

I guess I should ask what manifold you plan on using since that pretty much determines what downpipe you'll have to use.

Lastly, is there a downpipe in your picture? That looks like an o2 dump housing to me.