DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Oil cooler?

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Old 12-10-2009 | 04:49 PM
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Default Oil cooler?

I am still collecting parts to Turbo my NA, and saving for megasquirt..... and i noticed it seems there is not alot of info on oil coolers in this forum. i see FM sells them, but they dont seem to be very common.
What is your opinion of them.

I know that just about Every saab from present to roughly 1978 had some form of oil cooler, and they were anywhere from 285hp to 120 hp... so i assume it is nessesary!
Old 12-10-2009 | 04:55 PM
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I've got one, nice quality. I'm going to fab some protection for it though, kinda low.
Old 12-10-2009 | 04:59 PM
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i understand that though because judging by your turbo and injector size your car is VERY FAST....
im thinking on a somewhat lower level... maybe 240whp or less with a journal bearing turbo
Old 12-10-2009 | 05:04 PM
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the folks sitting pretty at 230-250rwhp and doing track days without them are still running strong...
Old 12-10-2009 | 05:32 PM
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We have a good oil cooler done. Just not the "kit" to go with it.
BEGi - - Front Page News - oil_coolers

Stephanie
Old 12-10-2009 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
the folks sitting pretty at 230-250rwhp and doing track days without them are still running strong...
ok, thats good to know.... i just wanted to make sure i wasnt going to get my car tuned only to replace the turbo and/or engine before the next oil change!
Old 12-10-2009 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Aero91
ok, thats good to know.... i just wanted to make sure i wasnt going to get my car tuned only to replace the turbo and/or engine before the next oil change!
Oil temp gauge is always a safe bet. That will tell you when you need a cooler.
Old 12-10-2009 | 07:42 PM
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Cheap too. Only a couple wires for the gauge and one for the sensor. Drill and tap your drain plug next time you change your oil for the easiest install.
Old 12-10-2009 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
Cheap too. Only a couple wires for the gauge and one for the sensor. Drill and tap your drain plug next time you change your oil for the easiest install.
Thats actually a really good idea... i have never heard of people putting the temp sensor in the drain plug, but it would be easily removable if needed.. ect..

Last edited by Aero91; 12-10-2009 at 09:45 PM. Reason: stupid
Old 12-10-2009 | 09:26 PM
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ZOMG, STFU!

*
It's called an NPT plug, I have one in there now after putting the sensor in the sandwich plate post cooler. Neither the plug or sensor ever leaked with a little teflon goo. A spade connector 2" from the sensor makes oil changes easier.
*

If you're "Not" comment was just referring to the obviousness and commonality of my suggestion and not it's supposed stupidness, ignore everything between the asterisks.
Old 12-10-2009 | 09:45 PM
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WTF, ohhh i was adding another sentance and got sidetracked...... sorry, no i really like that setup, i think im going to employ it myself now
Old 12-10-2009 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by thymer
Oil temp gauge is always a safe bet. That will tell you when you need a cooler.
At what temp would you consider it's time to get a cooler? My oil temps have gone over 230 before and I thought that might be a bit excessive.
Old 12-10-2009 | 10:14 PM
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another thing to consider is the use of an oil thermostat..... while you dont want your oil hot, it doesnt work very well when its cold either so a thermostat would definatly be nessesary
Old 12-10-2009 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Aero91
another thing to consider is the use of an oil thermostat..... while you dont want your oil hot, it doesnt work very well when its cold either so a thermostat would definatly be nessesary
+1, You can overcool your oil and it screws with your viscosity.
Old 12-10-2009 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by dustinb
At what temp would you consider it's time to get a cooler? My oil temps have gone over 230 before and I thought that might be a bit excessive.
Depends on who you talk to but over 230 is getting a bit toasty.
Old 12-10-2009 | 11:17 PM
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If you're oil temps are above 250*, then you need an oil cooler. Over 290*, you need to shut the car down.

/thread
Old 12-10-2009 | 11:43 PM
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Even in 30* weather without a thermostat I have no problem making my oil temp gauge just barely register, which is 140*. Is that considered too hot or too cold?
Old 12-10-2009 | 11:51 PM
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That's on the cool side
Old 12-11-2009 | 09:52 AM
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Way too cold. You need oil temps to be over 212F. What you're looking for a is stabilized oil temp above that. Oil weight and quality/type also enter into the equation. I've said it before, but I know several production racers that have done multiple seasons running minimum 3 hour races with 300F+ oil temps (the original Mobil 1) on LS engines- no failures. Not to say that's an ideal temp, but with a good oil it's not going to blow up your engine. Those LS engines made good power at that oil temp.

To the OP- there's a load of oil cooler info on this site, so I'm not sure what you searched for. Try oil cooler.
Old 12-11-2009 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
Way too cold. You need oil temps to be over 212F. What you're looking for a is stabilized oil temp above that. Oil weight and quality/type also enter into the equation. I've said it before, but I know several production racers that have done multiple seasons running minimum 3 hour races with 300F+ oil temps (the original Mobil 1) on LS engines- no failures. Not to say that's an ideal temp, but with a good oil it's not going to blow up your engine. Those LS engines made good power at that oil temp.

To the OP- there's a load of oil cooler info on this site, so I'm not sure what you searched for. Try oil cooler.
Well, 300* is ok if the viscosity index is so incredibly badass that it can function there, but I can't think of an oil aside from Redline 5w30 or Motul r300 (or whatever) that hold viscosity there.
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