Obligatory "goin' turbo" parts list & questions post.
#1
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Obligatory "goin' turbo" parts list & questions post.
I'm contemplating going turbo, and I want to make cretin that I've got all my facts right before I decide go for it or not. I need to keep this cheap, but still do it the right way. I've read the stickies and I'm 95% sure I that my list is complete and correct for my goals.
My goal is to safely and reliably run 5psi, (until I get a new clutch, then a little more) not looking for a lot of power but I'd be nice be faster then the average new minivan. The car is my daily driver, and I'll be using it to deliver pizza for the next 6-9 months, after that I'll be in the Marines and I wont be driving very often, I assume if the car sits and only gets driven once a week this wouldn't problem with the turbo. Also I've heard that turbo's need time to idle before the car is turned off, but if I don't go into boost I wouldn't have to do this.
List of stuff (I think) I need:
Turbocharger: Obviously need one of these. Just something small preferably with an internal waistgate.
Exhaust manifold: This is the only non Ebay turbo manifold I can find, I have no idea if it will fit the turbo I'm looking at, but if anyone can show me where to get a cheaper manifold, I'd appreciate it.
Ignition boost retard: This I understand as long as I don't go over 7psi, the AEM would do the job.
Downpipe: Will it be a problem finding a downpipe that will fit the stock exhaust? (I know I'd make more power with a 3” exhaust but I'm sticking with the stock exhaust to save $ for now).
Fuel injectors: I understand that stock fuel injectors will be fine at 5-7psi.
AFPR: Unnecessary at this point correct?
Boost control (Waistgate)
Blow off valve
Intercooler: Wont get until I go above 6psi
Do I need a tune? I'm guessing the answer is no since I'm not planning on using a MSD.
Clutch: I'll need to upgrade.
Oil lines.
Water lines.
Wideband 02 sensor
Heat shielding
I think thats it, thanks.
My goal is to safely and reliably run 5psi, (until I get a new clutch, then a little more) not looking for a lot of power but I'd be nice be faster then the average new minivan. The car is my daily driver, and I'll be using it to deliver pizza for the next 6-9 months, after that I'll be in the Marines and I wont be driving very often, I assume if the car sits and only gets driven once a week this wouldn't problem with the turbo. Also I've heard that turbo's need time to idle before the car is turned off, but if I don't go into boost I wouldn't have to do this.
List of stuff (I think) I need:
Turbocharger: Obviously need one of these. Just something small preferably with an internal waistgate.
Exhaust manifold: This is the only non Ebay turbo manifold I can find, I have no idea if it will fit the turbo I'm looking at, but if anyone can show me where to get a cheaper manifold, I'd appreciate it.
Ignition boost retard: This I understand as long as I don't go over 7psi, the AEM would do the job.
Downpipe: Will it be a problem finding a downpipe that will fit the stock exhaust? (I know I'd make more power with a 3” exhaust but I'm sticking with the stock exhaust to save $ for now).
Fuel injectors: I understand that stock fuel injectors will be fine at 5-7psi.
AFPR: Unnecessary at this point correct?
Boost control (Waistgate)
Blow off valve
Intercooler: Wont get until I go above 6psi
Do I need a tune? I'm guessing the answer is no since I'm not planning on using a MSD.
Clutch: I'll need to upgrade.
Oil lines.
Water lines.
Wideband 02 sensor
Heat shielding
I think thats it, thanks.
Last edited by gearhead_318; 05-29-2011 at 11:33 PM.
#2
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Buy a Begi-S kit and make profits. Seriously, there is a reason that we bang on about them... Unless you're getting used parts and you absolutely know what you're doing, a Begi-S kit is the best way to go for cheap, reliable power.
#3
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Fuel injectors: I understand that stock fuel injectors will be fine at 5-7psi.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-EV14-650cc-Mazda-Miata-MX5-Fuel-Injectors-NEW-309-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563a2fcf04QQitemZ37034 3399172QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts
AFPR: Unnecessary at this point correct?
read more
Boost control (Waistgate)
AIDZgate
Blow off valve
TiAL Q
Intercooler: Wont get until I go above 6psi
Precision 600 core
Do I need a tune? I'm guessing the answer is no since I'm not planning on using a MSD.
lol @ retardation
Clutch: I'll need to upgrade.
949 twin
Oil lines.
teflon/SS
Water lines.
teflon/SS
Wideband 02 sensor
LC-1
Heat shielding
Custom metal around the turbo and DEI tunnel matt, lots of it
I think thats it, thanks.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-EV14-650cc-Mazda-Miata-MX5-Fuel-Injectors-NEW-309-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563a2fcf04QQitemZ37034 3399172QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts
AFPR: Unnecessary at this point correct?
read more
Boost control (Waistgate)
AIDZgate
Blow off valve
TiAL Q
Intercooler: Wont get until I go above 6psi
Precision 600 core
Do I need a tune? I'm guessing the answer is no since I'm not planning on using a MSD.
lol @ retardation
Clutch: I'll need to upgrade.
949 twin
Oil lines.
teflon/SS
Water lines.
teflon/SS
Wideband 02 sensor
LC-1
Heat shielding
Custom metal around the turbo and DEI tunnel matt, lots of it
I think thats it, thanks.
#6
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-EV1...04QQitemZ37034 3399172QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts
This listing (37034) has been removed, or this item is not available.
read more
M'kay I will.
AIDZgate
I was trying to avid getting AIDS, but if you say so...
TiAL Q
Looks nice but way too expensive
lol @ retardation
I don't know if you mean "A" "lol, you cant ******* tune an MSD, how did you get loose from the Special Olympics anyway?" or "B" ''lol at the mouth-breather about to **** up his car because he didn't think he needed a tune". I'm leaning towards "A" because These settings (MSD settings that ishttp://miataturbo.wikidot.com/ignition-control) are fixed and cannot be adjusted
949 twin
More then my entire turbo budget
I'm starting to think you suggested expensive stuff on purpose. My budget is around $500 so the $1K clutch is out, the budget is also why I want to go with a MSD instead of a DIYPNP
This listing (37034) has been removed, or this item is not available.
read more
M'kay I will.
AIDZgate
I was trying to avid getting AIDS, but if you say so...
TiAL Q
Looks nice but way too expensive
lol @ retardation
I don't know if you mean "A" "lol, you cant ******* tune an MSD, how did you get loose from the Special Olympics anyway?" or "B" ''lol at the mouth-breather about to **** up his car because he didn't think he needed a tune". I'm leaning towards "A" because These settings (MSD settings that ishttp://miataturbo.wikidot.com/ignition-control) are fixed and cannot be adjusted
949 twin
More then my entire turbo budget
I'm starting to think you suggested expensive stuff on purpose. My budget is around $500 so the $1K clutch is out, the budget is also why I want to go with a MSD instead of a DIYPNP
Last edited by gearhead_318; 05-30-2011 at 12:18 AM.
#9
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I realized I hadn't set a budget so I just said $500. I just looked at Begi manifolds and I realize that $500 is unrealistic, I thought they where cheaper.
#10
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500 dollar budget
I shouldn't laugh too much, Charlie, as I was once in your shoes. Let me tell you the story of my car.
Got the car when I was 16. I had no job. Got the idea into my head that you could do a turbo on the cheap. Started collecting turbo parts on the budget of mowing lawns and lunch money. Got an FM manifold for 225 dollars new. Begi-S DP for 40. 90 dollar SR20 turbo. 400 dollar brain-built MS and an LC1, as well as misc oil lines.
All said and done, with the cheapest of everything (I really mean everything was CHEAP as can be) I was in at something like $1700. Add in the ACT clutch and other supporting mods, it was a little under 2k.
For the next 6 months, I drove the car set up like it was. It was a nightmare. CONSTANT oil leaks, exhaust leaks, couplers blowing, turbo seals letting go, you name it, I had a problem with it. It's a miracle I didn't blow my engine. I really do mean that.
Long story short, I wish I had gotten a Begi-S kit and MS/LC1'd it. Same price, same power levels, infinitely more reliability. I probably know about cheaping out more than most here do, and I can tell you that the Begi-S is really the way to go. DON'T try to turbo your car for under 500 dollars and expect it to work. And no offense, but if you have a budget of 500 dollars, I doubt you have another car to drive, and a 500 dollar turbo kit will be as far from reliable as is humanly possible.
I shouldn't laugh too much, Charlie, as I was once in your shoes. Let me tell you the story of my car.
Got the car when I was 16. I had no job. Got the idea into my head that you could do a turbo on the cheap. Started collecting turbo parts on the budget of mowing lawns and lunch money. Got an FM manifold for 225 dollars new. Begi-S DP for 40. 90 dollar SR20 turbo. 400 dollar brain-built MS and an LC1, as well as misc oil lines.
All said and done, with the cheapest of everything (I really mean everything was CHEAP as can be) I was in at something like $1700. Add in the ACT clutch and other supporting mods, it was a little under 2k.
For the next 6 months, I drove the car set up like it was. It was a nightmare. CONSTANT oil leaks, exhaust leaks, couplers blowing, turbo seals letting go, you name it, I had a problem with it. It's a miracle I didn't blow my engine. I really do mean that.
Long story short, I wish I had gotten a Begi-S kit and MS/LC1'd it. Same price, same power levels, infinitely more reliability. I probably know about cheaping out more than most here do, and I can tell you that the Begi-S is really the way to go. DON'T try to turbo your car for under 500 dollars and expect it to work. And no offense, but if you have a budget of 500 dollars, I doubt you have another car to drive, and a 500 dollar turbo kit will be as far from reliable as is humanly possible.
#13
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500 dollar budget
I shouldn't laugh too much, Charlie, as I was once in your shoes. Let me tell you the story of my car.
Got the car when I was 16. I had no job. Got the idea into my head that you could do a turbo on the cheap. Started collecting turbo parts on the budget of mowing lawns and lunch money. Got an FM manifold for 225 dollars new. Begi-S DP for 40. 90 dollar SR20 turbo. 400 dollar brain-built MS and an LC1, as well as misc oil lines.
All said and done, with the cheapest of everything (I really mean everything was CHEAP as can be) I was in at something like $1700. Add in the ACT clutch and other supporting mods, it was a little under 2k.
For the next 6 months, I drove the car set up like it was. It was a nightmare. CONSTANT oil leaks, exhaust leaks, couplers blowing, turbo seals letting go, you name it, I had a problem with it. It's a miracle I didn't blow my engine. I really do mean that.
Long story short, I wish I had gotten a Begi-S kit and MS/LC1'd it. Same price, same power levels, infinitely more reliability. I probably know about cheaping out more than most here do, and I can tell you that the Begi-S is really the way to go. DON'T try to turbo your car for under 500 dollars and expect it to work. And no offense, but if you have a budget of 500 dollars, I doubt you have another car to drive, and a 500 dollar turbo kit will be as far from reliable as is humanly possible.
I shouldn't laugh too much, Charlie, as I was once in your shoes. Let me tell you the story of my car.
Got the car when I was 16. I had no job. Got the idea into my head that you could do a turbo on the cheap. Started collecting turbo parts on the budget of mowing lawns and lunch money. Got an FM manifold for 225 dollars new. Begi-S DP for 40. 90 dollar SR20 turbo. 400 dollar brain-built MS and an LC1, as well as misc oil lines.
All said and done, with the cheapest of everything (I really mean everything was CHEAP as can be) I was in at something like $1700. Add in the ACT clutch and other supporting mods, it was a little under 2k.
For the next 6 months, I drove the car set up like it was. It was a nightmare. CONSTANT oil leaks, exhaust leaks, couplers blowing, turbo seals letting go, you name it, I had a problem with it. It's a miracle I didn't blow my engine. I really do mean that.
Long story short, I wish I had gotten a Begi-S kit and MS/LC1'd it. Same price, same power levels, infinitely more reliability. I probably know about cheaping out more than most here do, and I can tell you that the Begi-S is really the way to go. DON'T try to turbo your car for under 500 dollars and expect it to work. And no offense, but if you have a budget of 500 dollars, I doubt you have another car to drive, and a 500 dollar turbo kit will be as far from reliable as is humanly possible.
#16
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I think he meant that if I attempted to do a DIY turbo install on my DD car that I use for work, the setup would not prove reliable causing me to loose gainful employment on account of my car been blowed up. Hence being extremely fail.
He's right too, I'll just aspirate naturally for the time being and go with a proven kit, like the ones from Begi when the time is right. A DIY turbo setup is not for n00bs like myself, experience is just about required.
He's right too, I'll just aspirate naturally for the time being and go with a proven kit, like the ones from Begi when the time is right. A DIY turbo setup is not for n00bs like myself, experience is just about required.
#17
I initially wanted to go cheap with my turbo setup...
then I started shopping for "cheap" stuff on this site....
then I started to not go cheap after getting parts for cheap off of this site....
I'm mid turbo install, and I'm crazy over budget, and I'm 100% glad that I've gone the route I've gone. Pretty much bought all of my turbo stuff off the forums, like my dp, manifold, injectors, partial BEGI S kit, etc.
Got stuff from Begi (which I had stuff missing of course, and forgot to check, and didn't realize it until it was way too late). Got stuff from ACE hardware. Got stuff from Oreilly's
Still gotta wire up my wideband, megasquirt, and gauges, get my intercooler piping setup, and get things bolted up.
If you're doing this on your DD and want to do DIY, I don't recommend it. I've been working on my car little by little for a few months. Thank God I have another DD and a garage big enough for me to mess around in. Things WILL go wrong, just my 2 cents
then I started shopping for "cheap" stuff on this site....
then I started to not go cheap after getting parts for cheap off of this site....
I'm mid turbo install, and I'm crazy over budget, and I'm 100% glad that I've gone the route I've gone. Pretty much bought all of my turbo stuff off the forums, like my dp, manifold, injectors, partial BEGI S kit, etc.
Got stuff from Begi (which I had stuff missing of course, and forgot to check, and didn't realize it until it was way too late). Got stuff from ACE hardware. Got stuff from Oreilly's
Still gotta wire up my wideband, megasquirt, and gauges, get my intercooler piping setup, and get things bolted up.
If you're doing this on your DD and want to do DIY, I don't recommend it. I've been working on my car little by little for a few months. Thank God I have another DD and a garage big enough for me to mess around in. Things WILL go wrong, just my 2 cents
#19
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I'd think it would come with instructions. I hope here better then the instructions that I got for my HD roll bar that I'm now trying to install. I need more pictures.
#20
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Roll bar doesn't even need instructions.
1. Remove rear carpets
2. Trim aluminum POS behind the seats above the tunnel
3. Set roll bar down
4. Bolt roll bar in.
It really is that easy.
1. Remove rear carpets
2. Trim aluminum POS behind the seats above the tunnel
3. Set roll bar down
4. Bolt roll bar in.
It really is that easy.