noob turbo questions , sr20 t25
#2
Slowest Progress Ever
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Location: The coal ridden hills of Pennsylvania
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Perfect turbo for your build.
Give us details on how much power you plan on making/ what fuel management you plan to use, etc...Do Not short change us. We need details.
Give us details on how much power you plan on making/ what fuel management you plan to use, etc...Do Not short change us. We need details.
#3
the AEM fuel ignition controller with boomslang harness, also I have rx7 red top 460s ready to put in, running inovate LC1 wideband to keep an eye on a/f ratios. Was planing on going with artech manifold and downpipe. I really just wanna try for low to mid power range , but im trying to do everything better than a slap on low power build. Also I think this Turbo is water and oil cooled? Idk.
#4
Cpt. Slow
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Location: Oregon City, OR
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Yup that's a great turbo, as evidenced by my sig.
It tops out around 200-225hp, depending on tune, boost levels, engine health, etc. But, on our little cars that's around double the stock power and plenty to work with.
You also avoid blowing up differentials, transmissions, and engines at that power level.
And yes it's both water and oil cooled.
It tops out around 200-225hp, depending on tune, boost levels, engine health, etc. But, on our little cars that's around double the stock power and plenty to work with.
You also avoid blowing up differentials, transmissions, and engines at that power level.
And yes it's both water and oil cooled.
#7
Here's mine, but it's a scratch DIY build with an SR20 T25 including the manifold.
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...-thread-28412/
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...-thread-28412/
#10
For that turbo and that power level, spending the money on Artech stuff or welding yourself really isn't (time or money) well spent. Get yourself a used Begi cast manifold and downpipe for your hotside, and buy a universal CXRacing 2.5" IC kit for the coldside. There are 20 ways to route your IC pipes, but a simple "around-the-radiator" is just a matter of cutting the pipes to fit.
I see that you've got an NB... what year is it? HINT: Fill in your signature!!!
With a 2.5" or bigger exhaust on a 1.8, you should start seeing spool well under 2k rpm, and be fully spooled well under 4k. You should see in the 210-220whp range anywhere from 12-15psi, and peak torque somewhere in the 180-200wtq area.
I see that you've got an NB... what year is it? HINT: Fill in your signature!!!
With a 2.5" or bigger exhaust on a 1.8, you should start seeing spool well under 2k rpm, and be fully spooled well under 4k. You should see in the 210-220whp range anywhere from 12-15psi, and peak torque somewhere in the 180-200wtq area.
#16
Cpt. Slow
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Clocking what, the turbo? Once you take the huge C-ring off, the compressor will rotate with a little BFH motivation, don't damage your compressor wheel though.
I should have explained more, that's an exhaust clamp around the stock st20 wastegate, I drilled the bracket off in a drill press. Just drill out the spot welds. Once mounted the wastegate can spin 360*, as can the actuator rod, supposedly without damaging the internals.
I should have explained more, that's an exhaust clamp around the stock st20 wastegate, I drilled the bracket off in a drill press. Just drill out the spot welds. Once mounted the wastegate can spin 360*, as can the actuator rod, supposedly without damaging the internals.
Last edited by curly; 07-16-2012 at 08:49 AM.
#17
Clocking what, the turbo? Once you take the huge C-ring off, the compressor will rotate with a little BFH motivation, don't damage your compressor wheel though.
I should have explained more, that's an exhaust clamp around the stock st20 wastegate, I drilled the bracket off in a drill press. Just drill out the spot welds.
I should have explained more, that's an exhaust clamp around the stock st20 wastegate, I drilled the bracket off in a drill press. Just drill out the spot welds.