No oil pressure sender? What is this wizardry?
#6
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Welcome to the wonderful world of fake oil pressure sender and gauge. Do yourself a favor and get a cluster from a 90 to 93 and pirate the real oil pressure gauge. After you get that installed in your cluster, replace that "switch" with a "sender" found here: OIL PRESSURE SENDER B61P-18-501. You can get one from any Miata in the junkyard with a real gauge and it should work. Arlington used to offer the gauges new but I guess Mazda finally ran out. I bought one back in the day for my 95 and it was... expensive. I never got to install it.
#8
Welcome to the wonderful world of fake oil pressure sender and gauge. Do yourself a favor and get a cluster from a 90 to 93 and pirate the real oil pressure gauge. After you get that installed in your cluster, replace that "switch" with a "sender" found here: OIL PRESSURE SENDER B61P-18-501. You can get one from any Miata in the junkyard with a real gauge and it should work. Arlington used to offer the gauges new but I guess Mazda finally ran out. I bought one back in the day for my 95 and it was... expensive. I never got to install it.
#9
edit: rather, the gauge works whether you have a sender or switch, but the sender is better because it gives an accurate readout, instead of an on/off. Not sure if you need to change cluster internals to upgrade to a sender, though.
Last edited by mellowout; 08-23-2012 at 07:53 PM.
#13
Also, if you use a brass tee, brass is pretty soft and doesn't usually fatigue to the point of snapping
And if you are worried still, you can get a stainless steel tee from a number of websites that wouldn't break if you hit it with a sledge hammer.
#16
The Honder kids break T's all the time. Makes for bad afternoons.
I prefer to run a short braided line to the sending unit mounted on the firewall with a t-bolt mount like you would use on a catch can. Then put the T there and run the feed line around the back of the firewall with adell clamps. Looks clean, you'll never break anything this way, and it costs only a few dollars more than buying a single line and risking engine death.
I prefer to run a short braided line to the sending unit mounted on the firewall with a t-bolt mount like you would use on a catch can. Then put the T there and run the feed line around the back of the firewall with adell clamps. Looks clean, you'll never break anything this way, and it costs only a few dollars more than buying a single line and risking engine death.
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