New clutch - Can't Switch gears
05-26-2020, 06:51 PM
#1
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New clutch - Can't Switch gears
Hello every one.
I have a issue with the New clutch kit from clutch-max stg2 i installed. After the first install, it was impossible to Switch gears when the engine was running. When off, all was ok.
I blamed a mistake from me, i i took all back down and double check the kit. I noticed the diaphragme was 6mm upper (to the bearing). All the reste was ok, and good installed. So i blamed the hydraulics.
i bleeded all: same. I change the master and slave : same. I changed the hose for a stainless on. Off course i bleed all then. I adjusted the pedal guard, and his play: sale. I will try to Bench bleed the master, and see if it's better?
For info, the fork travels on 15mm. Is it enough ?
Maybe you have infos on this ?
Thx guyz.
I have a issue with the New clutch kit from clutch-max stg2 i installed. After the first install, it was impossible to Switch gears when the engine was running. When off, all was ok.
I blamed a mistake from me, i i took all back down and double check the kit. I noticed the diaphragme was 6mm upper (to the bearing). All the reste was ok, and good installed. So i blamed the hydraulics.
i bleeded all: same. I change the master and slave : same. I changed the hose for a stainless on. Off course i bleed all then. I adjusted the pedal guard, and his play: sale. I will try to Bench bleed the master, and see if it's better?
For info, the fork travels on 15mm. Is it enough ?
Maybe you have infos on this ?
Thx guyz.
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05-27-2020, 02:49 AM
#4
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I double checked when i installed it the first Time, and again when i strip it all off to check a second Time.
If i can't find a solution, i will have to bolt it off again...
Real pain in the ***
Others have this issue/solution ?
Thx
Real pain in the ***
Others have this issue/solution ?
Thx
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05-27-2020, 08:18 AM
#5
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You have that thin piece of metal that goes between the engine and the trans in place, correct? Usually this doesn't produce the results you see but can cause issues.
The issue is still there when the slave cylinder isn't even bolted to the transmission?
Pilot bearing seized onto the input shaft? I've had this happen, but you'd know it when you can't remove the transmission.
The issue is still there when the slave cylinder isn't even bolted to the transmission?
Pilot bearing seized onto the input shaft? I've had this happen, but you'd know it when you can't remove the transmission.
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05-27-2020, 02:12 PM
#6
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You have that thin piece of metal that goes between the engine and the trans in place, correct? Usually this doesn't produce the results you see but can cause issues.
The issue is still there when the slave cylinder isn't even bolted to the transmission?
Pilot bearing seized onto the input shaft? I've had this happen, but you'd know it when you can't remove the transmission.
The issue is still there when the slave cylinder isn't even bolted to the transmission?
Pilot bearing seized onto the input shaft? I've had this happen, but you'd know it when you can't remove the transmission.
Today i tryied to put the clutch fork in preload, with 10mm bewteen the fork and the axle, but it didn't changed anything. i bench bleeded the master, and no improvements.
i checked the fork travel : 15mm, as OEM. So, if my though is good, the hydraulic work fine... :( So my issue may come from the clutch himself.
A strange thing i noticed, is that i succed (with difficulties) to start the car in the second gear, the car moved when i pulled the pedal, but when i went back to neutral, it was impossible to switch again in any gear...
Opinions on this ?
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05-27-2020, 03:52 PM
#7
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I'm guessing that when you try and put it into gear with the engine running it grinds.
Either the pilot bearing is somehow seized on the input shaft or the clutch is broken somehow.
It's the eBay 1.6l clutch kit? If so, I would suspect that.
Either the pilot bearing is somehow seized on the input shaft or the clutch is broken somehow.
It's the eBay 1.6l clutch kit? If so, I would suspect that.
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05-30-2020, 07:32 PM
#9
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That's why it was Erat's first guess it was an Ebay clutch? Because they always work? Hahahaha!
You now have a used junk clutch. Now spend the money and time twice doing it right.
You now have a used junk clutch. Now spend the money and time twice doing it right.
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06-08-2020, 04:39 PM
#10
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This is how the clutch operates:
When your engine is running, its job is to turn the up-and-down motion of the pistons into a circular motion. There are a whole series of linkages and feedback mechanisms, but ultimately the important part is that there is a crankshaft -- you can think of this as a long metal rod that rotates lengthwise.
Now this turning motion of the crankshaft needs to be applied to the gearbox, so that the right amount of power gets ultimately sent to another long metal rod -- this one's called the driveshaft -- and ultimately to the wheels.
<!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->Tutuapp 9apps Showbox
So far, so straightforward. As always, the devil is in the detail.
When the engine is running the crankshaft is rotating thousands of times per minute. This means that the gears are also rotating thousands of times per minute. If you were to try to shift gears (i.e. move from one rotating cog to another) at this speed, it would be almost impossible to do without grinding the gears against one another.
So what's needed is a mechanism to slow down the gearbox rotation, which can be achieved if we temporarily disconnect the gearbox from the crankshaft which is giving it power. This mechanism is called the clutch.
There are many ways in which a clutch can be designed, but the most common is very straightforward. At the end of the crankshaft is a large flat disk (picture it as a plate attached at the end of a broom handle). This disk obviously rotates with the crankshaft. Crucially, the disk is covered in a very rough material, which means it creates friction with whatever it touches.
In the gearbox is another similar disk, also covered in a rough material. Now, when the clutch is disengaged (i.e. when you're not pushing the pedal down), the two disks are pushed against each other by a powerful spring. Because of their high-friction coatings this means that when the disk at the end of the crankshaft rotates, it also causes the gearbox disk to rotate, which transmits power to the gears, and your car moves forward.
Now you push the clutch pedal down. The spring is forced away from the disks (this is why you need quite a strong left foot to push the clutch!) and the two rotating plates move apart from each other. We've now successfully disconnected the rotation of the crankshaft from the gearbox; the gear rotation slows down and you're able to smoothly shift into a different gear.
As you gradually bring your foot up the clutch plates start to touch each other, and if you do this smoothly and gently then they begin to rotate in sync again. Bring your foot up too quickly however, and the speeds of the two disks are mismatched and the car could lurch forwards or even stall.
(There are a number of additional complexities and refinements that I've left out, but this is the basic principle of how a clutch works and why you need it).
When your engine is running, its job is to turn the up-and-down motion of the pistons into a circular motion. There are a whole series of linkages and feedback mechanisms, but ultimately the important part is that there is a crankshaft -- you can think of this as a long metal rod that rotates lengthwise.
Now this turning motion of the crankshaft needs to be applied to the gearbox, so that the right amount of power gets ultimately sent to another long metal rod -- this one's called the driveshaft -- and ultimately to the wheels.
<!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->Tutuapp 9apps Showbox
So far, so straightforward. As always, the devil is in the detail.
When the engine is running the crankshaft is rotating thousands of times per minute. This means that the gears are also rotating thousands of times per minute. If you were to try to shift gears (i.e. move from one rotating cog to another) at this speed, it would be almost impossible to do without grinding the gears against one another.
So what's needed is a mechanism to slow down the gearbox rotation, which can be achieved if we temporarily disconnect the gearbox from the crankshaft which is giving it power. This mechanism is called the clutch.
There are many ways in which a clutch can be designed, but the most common is very straightforward. At the end of the crankshaft is a large flat disk (picture it as a plate attached at the end of a broom handle). This disk obviously rotates with the crankshaft. Crucially, the disk is covered in a very rough material, which means it creates friction with whatever it touches.
In the gearbox is another similar disk, also covered in a rough material. Now, when the clutch is disengaged (i.e. when you're not pushing the pedal down), the two disks are pushed against each other by a powerful spring. Because of their high-friction coatings this means that when the disk at the end of the crankshaft rotates, it also causes the gearbox disk to rotate, which transmits power to the gears, and your car moves forward.
Now you push the clutch pedal down. The spring is forced away from the disks (this is why you need quite a strong left foot to push the clutch!) and the two rotating plates move apart from each other. We've now successfully disconnected the rotation of the crankshaft from the gearbox; the gear rotation slows down and you're able to smoothly shift into a different gear.
As you gradually bring your foot up the clutch plates start to touch each other, and if you do this smoothly and gently then they begin to rotate in sync again. Bring your foot up too quickly however, and the speeds of the two disks are mismatched and the car could lurch forwards or even stall.
(There are a number of additional complexities and refinements that I've left out, but this is the basic principle of how a clutch works and why you need it).
Last edited by Audrey Spency; 06-11-2020 at 08:04 AM.
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06-09-2020, 12:18 AM
#13
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Here in Europe and more in France, we dont have all the crazy aftermarket stuffs for miata that you have over here. Lot of MX5 owners are just interessed on "how to install a front bumper, a intake pod" or bullshits like this. The BMW is a lot stronger, with big turbo installation on 5cyl for crazy HP ! but i didnt Want to ride a z3 or a 325i 🙂
i will continue...
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06-10-2020, 02:11 AM
#16
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G19 has a cheap paddle clutch, It is 237 pounds. I run that one. Hate it, shudders and is just annoying to drive of from a standstill. But it does hold the power and fitted my student budget at that point. I daily drive it and that just makes the problem a lot worse. If you would use it for a track rat or weekend car it would be a perfectly usable clutch.
Bofi racing and Skuzzle both have a more expensive clutch. Both use the same clutch design, one side is paddle and the other side is full face. they claim that it works as good as a full face clutch. But I don't have any experience with them. They also sell CC clutches and ACT.
Bofi racing and Skuzzle both have a more expensive clutch. Both use the same clutch design, one side is paddle and the other side is full face. they claim that it works as good as a full face clutch. But I don't have any experience with them. They also sell CC clutches and ACT.
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