My own little DIY build thread, yay!
#1
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edit: This will be a general thread about my car, where I will post most pictures, updates and questions. More updates are towards the end of the thread /edit
Kinda bored and thought I'd start my own build thread since I just started building my engine and a new kit. Blew my engine last week so rebuilding/collecting parts right now. My previous setup was/is AVO manifold w/ GT28R turbo, AVO FMIC, AVO turbo elbow. EMU w/ 310cc supra injectors.
Head is in the shop being rebuilt to stock specs, and port and polish and 3way valve job.
Here's what I've bought so far:
ETD Racing H rods
JE 9:1 1.5mm overbore pistons
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
OEM new oil/water pump and timing belt
Plans:
GT28RS disco potato
TIAL 38mm external wastegate
Begi Series 4 tubular manifold
custom downpipe
Fidanza 8lb flywheel
New FMIC
Plans are only 250whp right now. Should be reliable though
Might boost it higher later.
I plan on staying with stock ecu and EMU, what should I do with the fuel system to get to 250-300whp? Right now I'm debating if I should get a lighter crank pulley, unorthodox racing, or stick with a stock one, what do ya'll say? Suggestions and critics are welcome, let me know what you think.
Kinda bored and thought I'd start my own build thread since I just started building my engine and a new kit. Blew my engine last week so rebuilding/collecting parts right now. My previous setup was/is AVO manifold w/ GT28R turbo, AVO FMIC, AVO turbo elbow. EMU w/ 310cc supra injectors.
Head is in the shop being rebuilt to stock specs, and port and polish and 3way valve job.
Here's what I've bought so far:
ETD Racing H rods
JE 9:1 1.5mm overbore pistons
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
OEM new oil/water pump and timing belt
Plans:
GT28RS disco potato
TIAL 38mm external wastegate
Begi Series 4 tubular manifold
custom downpipe
Fidanza 8lb flywheel
New FMIC
Plans are only 250whp right now. Should be reliable though
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/cool.gif)
I plan on staying with stock ecu and EMU, what should I do with the fuel system to get to 250-300whp? Right now I'm debating if I should get a lighter crank pulley, unorthodox racing, or stick with a stock one, what do ya'll say? Suggestions and critics are welcome, let me know what you think.
Last edited by RusMan; 04-21-2007 at 04:10 AM.
#3
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Kinda bored and thought I'd start my own build thread since I just started building my engine and a new kit. Blew my engine last week so rebuilding/collecting parts right now. My previous setup was/is AVO manifold w/ GT28R turbo, AVO FMIC, AVO turbo elbow. EMU w/ 310cc supra injectors.
Head is in the shop being rebuilt to stock specs, and port and polish and 3way valve job.
Here's what I've bought so far:
ETD Racing H rods
JE 9:1 1.5mm overbore pistons
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
OEM new oil/water pump and timing belt
Plans:
GT28RS disco potato
TIAL 38mm external wastegate
Begi Series 4 tubular manifold
custom downpipe
Fidanza 8lb flywheel
Plans are only 250whp right now. Should be reliable though
Might boost it higher later.
I plan on staying with stock ecu and EMU, what should I do with the fuel system to get to 250-300whp? Let me know what you guys think, suggestions and critics are welcome, let me know what you think.
Head is in the shop being rebuilt to stock specs, and port and polish and 3way valve job.
Here's what I've bought so far:
ETD Racing H rods
JE 9:1 1.5mm overbore pistons
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
OEM new oil/water pump and timing belt
Plans:
GT28RS disco potato
TIAL 38mm external wastegate
Begi Series 4 tubular manifold
custom downpipe
Fidanza 8lb flywheel
Plans are only 250whp right now. Should be reliable though
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/cool.gif)
I plan on staying with stock ecu and EMU, what should I do with the fuel system to get to 250-300whp? Let me know what you guys think, suggestions and critics are welcome, let me know what you think.
Fuel system:
550cc injectors
Walbro 255
Aeromotive AFPR
Some sort of better fuel rail. Vishnu?
Good expandable fuel system that is very tunable and will go up to much more whp then 250.
#6
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You can replumb your system... returnless does kinda get sucky for higher hp.
I think your build sounds like a good route. With a built motor, I'd take full advantage of it with a good engine management system though.
450s will do 300... do the 550s for a bit of breathing room. That turbo is good for more than 250... and with the built motor... you should at least tune higher... then just detune for normal usage.
I think your build sounds like a good route. With a built motor, I'd take full advantage of it with a good engine management system though.
450s will do 300... do the 550s for a bit of breathing room. That turbo is good for more than 250... and with the built motor... you should at least tune higher... then just detune for normal usage.
#7
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Is it really worth it to run a return line? I think I'll try some 550's and see how it is. I'll probably tune for more like you said and run lower boost daily, and turn it up when needed. I would do standalone but I need to pass obdII testing and it's a bit too much money right now, I might upgrade later.
#8
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What do you suggest instead? With a REAL afpr, its an excellent fuel pump.
Rusman - Stick with the stock pulley.
Also, you seem to have a bit of disposable cash (Ballbearing turbos,bodykit,etc), no offense (I know, I wish I had some disposable income), why are you sticking with an emanage instead of going with a real standalone. OBD2 issues?
Rusman - Stick with the stock pulley.
Also, you seem to have a bit of disposable cash (Ballbearing turbos,bodykit,etc), no offense (I know, I wish I had some disposable income), why are you sticking with an emanage instead of going with a real standalone. OBD2 issues?
#10
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He suggests the 190 LPH HP and has forever. The 255 over powers the stock regulator which creates all kinds of problems involving running rich. It's been done over and over again, with REAL AFPR, vortech or begi and the 190 provides ample fuel and is a little cheaper. Why pay extra for more problems.
#11
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I don't have that much income, I'm just stupid enough to throw all my money into the car, and I think since I have to rebuild the engine might as well do it nice the first time around. Not doing standalone because of money and odbII like I said earlier. It's all coming up to 5k very fast and I don't have that kind of money right now.
#12
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He suggests the 190 LPH HP and has forever. The 255 over powers the stock regulator which creates all kinds of problems involving running rich. It's been done over and over again, with REAL AFPR, vortech or begi and the 190 provides ample fuel and is a little cheaper. Why pay extra for more problems.
But then again, once you get to even higher HP territory, 255 just doesnt deliver the goods, need 2 of them or some kickass external pump.
For the record, I will be running a 190HP on mine, but I am going to run stock motor and basically under 300whp. But if I had cash to dump on an amazing fuel setup with SS lines, AN fittings, Expensive fuel rails, I would be running a 255, no doubt about it.
#13
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You are not using a stock regulator when using an AFPR. Whatever, everyone in the DSM world uses 255's, noone runs the 190. People run out of fuel using the 190 switch to 255 and are fine.
But then again, once you get to even higher HP territory, 255 just doesnt deliver the goods, need 2 of them or some kickass external pump.
For the record, I will be running a 190HP on mine, but I am going to run stock motor and basically under 300whp. But if I had cash to dump on an amazing fuel setup with SS lines, AN fittings, Expensive fuel rails, I would be running a 255, no doubt about it.
But then again, once you get to even higher HP territory, 255 just doesnt deliver the goods, need 2 of them or some kickass external pump.
For the record, I will be running a 190HP on mine, but I am going to run stock motor and basically under 300whp. But if I had cash to dump on an amazing fuel setup with SS lines, AN fittings, Expensive fuel rails, I would be running a 255, no doubt about it.
Everyone here uses the 190 except the real beasts like "1badmx5" who is pushing 500 hp. Search for his name, its a sweet setup.
You can run a AFPR on a returnless system, it includes using a inline fuel pump and cycling the AFPR return line through that pump i believe. It was discussed just a short time ago on here.
#15
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Yes you are.
Is this a DSM? No, we have different fueling demands.
You really have no idea what you are talking about, please stop.
The 255 is $5 more, so that must be a tight budget.
Look, I've gone over this numerous times....The 190lph can support 520BHP at 50psi, why again do you need a 255? If you wanna know my postion, click my link in my sig and read section 4, it's explained there, but cjernigan pretty much sumed it up.
Whatever, everyone in the DSM world uses 255's, noone runs the 190. People run out of fuel using the 190 switch to 255 and are fine.
But then again, once you get to even higher HP territory, 255 just doesnt deliver the goods, need 2 of them or some kickass external pump.
For the record, I will be running a 190HP on mine, but I am going to run stock motor and basically under 300whp. But if I had cash to dump on an amazing fuel setup with SS lines, AN fittings, Expensive fuel rails, I would be running a 255, no doubt about it.
Look, I've gone over this numerous times....The 190lph can support 520BHP at 50psi, why again do you need a 255? If you wanna know my postion, click my link in my sig and read section 4, it's explained there, but cjernigan pretty much sumed it up.
#17
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WTF dude havent you read single post here.
We know how to do miatas. You might know DSM's but we are completely different. We didnt come with 400+ cc injectors from the factory and we dont weight a metric ton or more, so we rarely need more than 300 whp to show DSMs why they are not the best platform.
We know how to do miatas. You might know DSM's but we are completely different. We didnt come with 400+ cc injectors from the factory and we dont weight a metric ton or more, so we rarely need more than 300 whp to show DSMs why they are not the best platform.
#19
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You are not using a stock regulator when using an AFPR. Whatever, everyone in the DSM world uses 255's, noone runs the 190. People run out of fuel using the 190 switch to 255 and are fine.
But then again, once you get to even higher HP territory, 255 just doesnt deliver the goods, need 2 of them or some kickass external pump.
For the record, I will be running a 190HP on mine, but I am going to run stock motor and basically under 300whp. But if I had cash to dump on an amazing fuel setup with SS lines, AN fittings, Expensive fuel rails, I would be running a 255, no doubt about it.
But then again, once you get to even higher HP territory, 255 just doesnt deliver the goods, need 2 of them or some kickass external pump.
For the record, I will be running a 190HP on mine, but I am going to run stock motor and basically under 300whp. But if I had cash to dump on an amazing fuel setup with SS lines, AN fittings, Expensive fuel rails, I would be running a 255, no doubt about it.
#20
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Yeah, speaking of different fueling demands....
The 255 lph is too much for the factory fpr in the NA, which runs 35 psi fuel pressure at idle. The NB runs static 60 psi fuel pressure, and is a totally different fueling system. It doesn't have the same return fpr that the NA does, and doesn't become overwhelmed.
If I had an NB and needed a pump, I'd get what would give the most fuel at 60 psi, and that's the 255 lph.
The limited data shows that quantity, not pressure, is what's important in the NB to keep the rail fully pressurized.
(On an NA where you need low fuel pressure under vac, but high pressure under boost, I'd go with the 190 hp).
The 255 lph is too much for the factory fpr in the NA, which runs 35 psi fuel pressure at idle. The NB runs static 60 psi fuel pressure, and is a totally different fueling system. It doesn't have the same return fpr that the NA does, and doesn't become overwhelmed.
If I had an NB and needed a pump, I'd get what would give the most fuel at 60 psi, and that's the 255 lph.
The limited data shows that quantity, not pressure, is what's important in the NB to keep the rail fully pressurized.
(On an NA where you need low fuel pressure under vac, but high pressure under boost, I'd go with the 190 hp).