MKTurbo Kit - 220 Degree CLT
#1
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Hi Everyone,
Long time reader first time poster... please be kind (does that sound lame?). I've searched and read a hundred different threads.
I'm running into issues with my coolant temps running hot quickly under moderately aggressive city driving and cannot figure out what the problem is. The build sheet..if you could call it that...is below. If I drive fairly aggressively I'll see temps jump from 205* to 220ish and that's when i limp the car home. Driving slower than my mother i'll slowly see temps creep up to 220. If i coast for a mile or two the temp drops back to 205* range. I'm nearing the end of my patience trying to diagnose this problem and I've thrown more than enough money at the car to keep it cool. Please let me know if there's anything I'm missing or if there is another way i can try to solve this. The car is intended to be a mostly HPDE car that i can cruise around town on the occasional Friday night. I've confirmed the temps that MS is seeing with an independent CLT sensor in the spare QMax port. I was originally hoping my OEM sensor was beginning to fail but no.
Info on the car:
1.6 with MKTurbo full kit installed...MS3, 640cc injectors, etc.
QMax Reroute with included 195* tstat
Supermiata Rad
Both OEM fans spliced to run together. No AC or PS. Fan triggers at OEM temp (208* I believe)
OEM undertray from the mouth of the bumper to the steering rack, sealed fairly well around the intercooler pipes
Spiked Performance hood vents
100% distilled water w/ Water Wetter
Edit: New water pump from TDR installed today. The road test saw 220* still hence why i've given up and come to the experts.
I have a TDR oil cooler kit i'm going to be hopefully installing tomorrow but i don't expect that to be the total fix. The only other thing I can think of is a bad thermostat which i haven't tried yet. I know I have some more ducting to do still but something tells me i shouldn't be this hot with JUST a lack of custom ducting? This setup has a total of MAYBE 30 miles of test and tune on it. If there's anyone in the Dallas Ft Worth area that has any advice or wants to look things over I'm open. Track Dog has been in the loop as I've bought and diagnosed issues and they're stumped as well. All test drives have been in the evening and lately it's been in the 60's in N Dallas so ambient temps are very much in my favor.
Please help!
Long time reader first time poster... please be kind (does that sound lame?). I've searched and read a hundred different threads.
I'm running into issues with my coolant temps running hot quickly under moderately aggressive city driving and cannot figure out what the problem is. The build sheet..if you could call it that...is below. If I drive fairly aggressively I'll see temps jump from 205* to 220ish and that's when i limp the car home. Driving slower than my mother i'll slowly see temps creep up to 220. If i coast for a mile or two the temp drops back to 205* range. I'm nearing the end of my patience trying to diagnose this problem and I've thrown more than enough money at the car to keep it cool. Please let me know if there's anything I'm missing or if there is another way i can try to solve this. The car is intended to be a mostly HPDE car that i can cruise around town on the occasional Friday night. I've confirmed the temps that MS is seeing with an independent CLT sensor in the spare QMax port. I was originally hoping my OEM sensor was beginning to fail but no.
Info on the car:
1.6 with MKTurbo full kit installed...MS3, 640cc injectors, etc.
QMax Reroute with included 195* tstat
Supermiata Rad
Both OEM fans spliced to run together. No AC or PS. Fan triggers at OEM temp (208* I believe)
OEM undertray from the mouth of the bumper to the steering rack, sealed fairly well around the intercooler pipes
Spiked Performance hood vents
100% distilled water w/ Water Wetter
Edit: New water pump from TDR installed today. The road test saw 220* still hence why i've given up and come to the experts.
I have a TDR oil cooler kit i'm going to be hopefully installing tomorrow but i don't expect that to be the total fix. The only other thing I can think of is a bad thermostat which i haven't tried yet. I know I have some more ducting to do still but something tells me i shouldn't be this hot with JUST a lack of custom ducting? This setup has a total of MAYBE 30 miles of test and tune on it. If there's anyone in the Dallas Ft Worth area that has any advice or wants to look things over I'm open. Track Dog has been in the loop as I've bought and diagnosed issues and they're stumped as well. All test drives have been in the evening and lately it's been in the 60's in N Dallas so ambient temps are very much in my favor.
Please help!
#4
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If your CLT temps are spiking and jumping only with load a good bit really fast it could be the broken sensor ground run on the 1.6 cars. That was a huge problem for me, and depending on how you ran the other temperature sensor might effect it as well.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...7/#post1354392
Otherwise, there's a funny thermostat video a forum member here made a while ago for a reason. They often suck, you should test it before installing it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...7/#post1354392
Otherwise, there's a funny thermostat video a forum member here made a while ago for a reason. They often suck, you should test it before installing it.
#5
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If your CLT temps are spiking and jumping only with load a good bit really fast it could be the broken sensor ground run on the 1.6 cars. That was a huge problem for me, and depending on how you ran the other temperature sensor might effect it as well.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...7/#post1354392
Otherwise, there's a funny thermostat video a forum member here made a while ago for a reason. They often suck, you should test it before installing it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...7/#post1354392
Otherwise, there's a funny thermostat video a forum member here made a while ago for a reason. They often suck, you should test it before installing it.
#8
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That video from around 8 minutes is a good explanation for what happens if the signal ground is mixed with high current return grounds. That would be injectors, idle valve, boost valve, pretty much anything on MS3 since it's all low side drive.
Electricity takes the least resistance, and if that is signal ground it will be so. Passing even small parts of a -2.5A return current for injectors clicking on and off through that ground will cause it to drop a voltage and really mess with voltage divider circuits like coolant sensors.
#11
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Don't judge wiring or cleanliness..... both will be addressed when the car is reliable lol
FWIW: the Intercooler is nearly touching the Rad. From what i've read it's better to have them close so the air keeps passing through rather than becoming turbulent inbetween. The Rad is aluminum taped to the upper support to seal up air beneath the TDR plate
FWIW: the Intercooler is nearly touching the Rad. From what i've read it's better to have them close so the air keeps passing through rather than becoming turbulent inbetween. The Rad is aluminum taped to the upper support to seal up air beneath the TDR plate
#12
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That's not as bad I was expecting - but on my brother's car we had the big intercooler that took up the entire mouth that basically blocked the mouth off completely with the IC - similarly, temps of 220 at cruise and then "turning off the a/c" to make sure it didn't overheat sounded familiar. This summer we moved the intercooler back and proceeded to do a much better job sealing up the mouth - along with a built VVT block and reroute. Temps are much more in control now, fans are no longer turning on at speed.
#14
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There is definitely some simple ducting that can be done, just to plug the sides like where the FMIC inlet and outlet pipes pass through, and in front of those as well.
I hope the T-Stat gives some improvement for you.
I hope the T-Stat gives some improvement for you.
#18
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Are you absolutely certain you do not have head / head gasket issues?
The point is, hot gases escaping in the coolant will heat it up pretty quickly.
You can quickly test it by removing the radiator cap, topping up the coolant to the brim, and have someone crank the engine while observing the radiator neck.
If you see bubbles coming up or coolant rushing, you can safely say head gasket is toast or the head is warped.
I prefer doing this test with a hottish/warm engine too, but please do so at your own risk.
Ps# Hope the new thermostat takes care of the problem.
The point is, hot gases escaping in the coolant will heat it up pretty quickly.
You can quickly test it by removing the radiator cap, topping up the coolant to the brim, and have someone crank the engine while observing the radiator neck.
If you see bubbles coming up or coolant rushing, you can safely say head gasket is toast or the head is warped.
I prefer doing this test with a hottish/warm engine too, but please do so at your own risk.
Ps# Hope the new thermostat takes care of the problem.
#20
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Are you absolutely certain you do not have head / head gasket issues?
The point is, hot gases escaping in the coolant will heat it up pretty quickly.
You can quickly test it by removing the radiator cap, topping up the coolant to the brim, and have someone crank the engine while observing the radiator neck.
If you see bubbles coming up or coolant rushing, you can safely say head gasket is toast or the head is warped.
I prefer doing this test with a hottish/warm engine too, but please do so at your own risk.
Ps# Hope the new thermostat takes care of the problem.
The point is, hot gases escaping in the coolant will heat it up pretty quickly.
You can quickly test it by removing the radiator cap, topping up the coolant to the brim, and have someone crank the engine while observing the radiator neck.
If you see bubbles coming up or coolant rushing, you can safely say head gasket is toast or the head is warped.
I prefer doing this test with a hottish/warm engine too, but please do so at your own risk.
Ps# Hope the new thermostat takes care of the problem.