Mk1 Turbo - Odd Afr Readings
#1
Mk1 Turbo - Odd Afr Readings
I recently finished the TD04 install on my 1994 1.8 MX-5 powered Westfield. Its running a MS3 and an Innovate LC-2 wideband sensor.
I've noticed after a few minutes driving the ARF stops working properly and drops down to around 7.5. I've tired setting the LC-2 in MS3 to use the voltages and the pre-set LC-2 but it reads the same.
Here is the log from a run yesterday where you can see what I mean: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qyzl5gfafi...03.41.msl?dl=0
The connector is plugged securely and the once the signal is dropped it doesn't come back so I don't think its a bad ground (it gets ground from the ECU). The only thing I thought it could be is its getting too hot next to the downpipe.
I put some Textile Extreme Heat shield sleeve on the wideband connector, exhaust wrap on the downpipe and a heat shield in between the downpipe and the chassis rail with gold tape on and it didn't change anything.
Has anyone had problems with these?
I've noticed after a few minutes driving the ARF stops working properly and drops down to around 7.5. I've tired setting the LC-2 in MS3 to use the voltages and the pre-set LC-2 but it reads the same.
Here is the log from a run yesterday where you can see what I mean: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qyzl5gfafi...03.41.msl?dl=0
The connector is plugged securely and the once the signal is dropped it doesn't come back so I don't think its a bad ground (it gets ground from the ECU). The only thing I thought it could be is its getting too hot next to the downpipe.
I put some Textile Extreme Heat shield sleeve on the wideband connector, exhaust wrap on the downpipe and a heat shield in between the downpipe and the chassis rail with gold tape on and it didn't change anything.
Has anyone had problems with these?
#2
How far is it from the turbo? Isn't it supposed to be 1-2ft away? How long does it take to *warm up* is that when it fails? Maybe it's the o2 sensor.
I cut my cord in half thinking it was a vacuum hose... Soldered her up and shoved the shielding in with some sticky tape and she works Better than yours �� mine sits behind the turbo with no shielding.
I cut my cord in half thinking it was a vacuum hose... Soldered her up and shoved the shielding in with some sticky tape and she works Better than yours �� mine sits behind the turbo with no shielding.
#5
You are probably getting an Error 8 code. I've had my LC2 for several years now, and the same crap happens to me after a few months. Then I go to autozone and replace the sensor under warranty (I bought a replacement from them when this first happened).
When this occurs, look at the LC2 controller and count the number of red flashes from the LED. Then look up the number of flashes as a "code" in the back of the instruction manual or online. If it's the E8 code, replace the sensor and re-calibrate.
When this occurs, look at the LC2 controller and count the number of red flashes from the LED. Then look up the number of flashes as a "code" in the back of the instruction manual or online. If it's the E8 code, replace the sensor and re-calibrate.
#8
Sometimes it doesn't take long for it to die. I had about a year on my LC2 before turbo and it was fine, within 2 months it was dead while turbo'd. Granted, I run low 11 afr WOT, burn plenty of oil on decel, and have a craptastic 2 piece downpipe from BEGI that has exhaust leaks. All of those will factor in for sensor life, and I don't feel like addressing the "issues", so I put up with replacing sensors pretty much every oil change...
#10
Ran the tests and I get the error 8. Done a petrol rag test and it starts full lean then goes full rich but the the error 8 comes and it reads full lean and the sensor cools down.
The vendor is saying the sensors are not warrantied at all so talking to Innovate directly now.
This is really annoying to happen so soon, had to take the Westfield to bits to get the sensor out.
The vendor is saying the sensors are not warrantied at all so talking to Innovate directly now.
This is really annoying to happen so soon, had to take the Westfield to bits to get the sensor out.
#11
Ouch, definitely a hassle... maybe route the sensor/harness to be able to remove/replace the sensor easier in the future? Access to the controller isn't super critical, just being able to see the LED is all you really need from that.
Also, the guy that usually answers the phone at Innovate, is probably going to be Felipe. Who will blame your car and or wiring, and ultimately won't do anything for you... just a heads up
Also, the guy that usually answers the phone at Innovate, is probably going to be Felipe. Who will blame your car and or wiring, and ultimately won't do anything for you... just a heads up
#12
When I re-install it I will make it easier to get to. The Bosch sensor itself is easy. I will also mount the control unit so I can see the LED without having to to take the dash off.
Does anyone have experience with the HBX-1 heat sink bung? Could this improve the life of a sensor? I have the LSU 4.9
Does anyone have experience with the HBX-1 heat sink bung? Could this improve the life of a sensor? I have the LSU 4.9
#15
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Something's up. I'm running same LC-2 sensor for about 10K boosted miles now. Bought a back-up, but have not needed it. Heat sink seems a wise choice.
See Ian's build for another fix for more severe situations. A high dollar part from Innovate: Post 918
See Ian's build for another fix for more severe situations. A high dollar part from Innovate: Post 918
#16
Something's up. I'm running same LC-2 sensor for about 10K boosted miles now. Bought a back-up, but have not needed it. Heat sink seems a wise choice.
See Ian's build for another fix for more severe situations. A high dollar part from Innovate: Post 918
See Ian's build for another fix for more severe situations. A high dollar part from Innovate: Post 918