LC-1 Install Help
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Lansdale, PA
Posts: 428
Total Cats: 0
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I wired my LC-1 to my Link today and cannot get the led to blink during the first time calibration mode. Here's how I wired it:
Brown anolog 2 -> green/red wire in egr harness
yellow anolog 1 -> blue wire at 02 narrowband harness(the other wires were taped off)
blue ground -> grounding post under throttle body
green ground -> blue/black wire in egr harness
white -> grounding post at rear of intake manifold
red power -> purge 12 switched source(same as FM WB install)
black calibration wire -> red LED wire ->black LED -> black reset button wire -> other black reset wire back to engine block.
I ran through the Link install procedures by turning on the wideband setting and disabling the egr.
I'm able to hook up my laptop to the LC-1 and the anolog settings and fuel mixture are correct. If I press the red reset button for open air calibration, the LED does light up.
Has anyone had this problem with a Link or can see what I'm doing wrong?
Brown anolog 2 -> green/red wire in egr harness
yellow anolog 1 -> blue wire at 02 narrowband harness(the other wires were taped off)
blue ground -> grounding post under throttle body
green ground -> blue/black wire in egr harness
white -> grounding post at rear of intake manifold
red power -> purge 12 switched source(same as FM WB install)
black calibration wire -> red LED wire ->black LED -> black reset button wire -> other black reset wire back to engine block.
I ran through the Link install procedures by turning on the wideband setting and disabling the egr.
I'm able to hook up my laptop to the LC-1 and the anolog settings and fuel mixture are correct. If I press the red reset button for open air calibration, the LED does light up.
Has anyone had this problem with a Link or can see what I'm doing wrong?
Last edited by Stripes; 01-07-2007 at 08:00 PM.
#2
Supporting Vendor
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/vendor.png)
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,659
Total Cats: 134
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you run logworks2 your computer will sim an xd-16 gauge for you that will show you what's going on. I think the heater calibration comes first and it will display "htr_cal" (or something similar) on your laptop. The free air calibration comes next. I think it displays just "cal" for the free air. It's a better way to see what's going on than watching an led.
Easiest way to get the lc to do a full cabiration is unplug the wb sensor from the lc module, cycle the ignition, then plug the wb back in. That will trick the lc into thinking you've got a new wb sensor, so it will automatically do the full calibration. Watch the calibration progress on your laptop to make sure it happened.
Easiest way to get the lc to do a full cabiration is unplug the wb sensor from the lc module, cycle the ignition, then plug the wb back in. That will trick the lc into thinking you've got a new wb sensor, so it will automatically do the full calibration. Watch the calibration progress on your laptop to make sure it happened.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Lansdale, PA
Posts: 428
Total Cats: 0
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok, we're getting somewhere. I ran logworks and the heater calibration came up and then the air calibration did it's thing. After it was done, the number hovered around 20.8 or 28.8.(I can't remember) So I guess my Lc-1 is calibrated. Does this sound like it's ready to be started? I have a hard time understanding electronics. It's not my strong suit.
I wonder why my LED is not working though. I would like to get it working before I fire the car up to make sure all my grounds are correct.
thanks for your help![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I wonder why my LED is not working though. I would like to get it working before I fire the car up to make sure all my grounds are correct.
thanks for your help
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If you run logworks2 your computer will sim an xd-16 gauge for you that will show you what's going on. I think the heater calibration comes first and it will display "htr_cal" (or something similar) on your laptop. The free air calibration comes next. I think it displays just "cal" for the free air. It's a better way to see what's going on than watching an led.
Easiest way to get the lc to do a full cabiration is unplug the wb sensor from the lc module, cycle the ignition, then plug the wb back in. That will trick the lc into thinking you've got a new wb sensor, so it will automatically do the full calibration. Watch the calibration progress on your laptop to make sure it happened.
Easiest way to get the lc to do a full cabiration is unplug the wb sensor from the lc module, cycle the ignition, then plug the wb back in. That will trick the lc into thinking you've got a new wb sensor, so it will automatically do the full calibration. Watch the calibration progress on your laptop to make sure it happened.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Lansdale, PA
Posts: 428
Total Cats: 0
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OK, I found something I don't understand:
"Mount the LED and switch that are supplied with the LC-1. Connect the BLACK wire on the LED to the BLACK wire on the switch. Connect the RED wire on the LED to the RED wire on the switch. "
My LED has a red and black wire, but my switch only has two black wires.
So you don't have to go through my first post again, here's how I wired my LED:
black calibration wire from LC-1 -> red wire on LED -> black wire on LED -> one of the two black wires on button -> the other black wire on push button-> ground on engine block.
Does this sound right? Where did you link up your black calibration wire?
"Mount the LED and switch that are supplied with the LC-1. Connect the BLACK wire on the LED to the BLACK wire on the switch. Connect the RED wire on the LED to the RED wire on the switch. "
My LED has a red and black wire, but my switch only has two black wires.
So you don't have to go through my first post again, here's how I wired my LED:
black calibration wire from LC-1 -> red wire on LED -> black wire on LED -> one of the two black wires on button -> the other black wire on push button-> ground on engine block.
Does this sound right? Where did you link up your black calibration wire?
#8
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Your grounds are too far apart also. Theyneed to be grounded at the same spot with the two thin wire grounded together and the thick wire grounded around an inch away to prevent interference. If you ground them too far apart like you have it can throw off your readings. The lc1 units is SUPER sensitive to grounding problems, which cause almost all issues people have with it.
I personally grounded mine directly into a ground wire on the engine harness. Ground disparities of feet like you have will cause problems.
I personally grounded mine directly into a ground wire on the engine harness. Ground disparities of feet like you have will cause problems.
#9
Supporting Vendor
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/vendor.png)
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,659
Total Cats: 134
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sounds like you are ready to go. The lc doesn't like ground variatations, but I don't think that a tenth of a volt or so will matter with the calibration ground like it would with the output ground. An led has polarity, so it's possible that you have the leads reversed. You could try switching them around.... that sounds like the problem from what you wrote.
I don't have a calibration switch or led. That was one of the things I considered when I decided to get the lc with the xd gauge (the other reason is it automatically dims at night, I hated how bright my nb gauge was).
I don't have a calibration switch or led. That was one of the things I considered when I decided to get the lc with the xd gauge (the other reason is it automatically dims at night, I hated how bright my nb gauge was).
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Lansdale, PA
Posts: 428
Total Cats: 0
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I wish innovative would tell you this information in their instructions. I thought the most important thing was to have all the grounds grounded to the block and not to split the grounds from the block and chassis.
Your grounds are too far apart also. Theyneed to be grounded at the same spot with the two thin wire grounded together and the thick wire grounded around an inch away to prevent interference. If you ground them too far apart like you have it can throw off your readings. The lc1 units is SUPER sensitive to grounding problems, which cause almost all issues people have with it.
I personally grounded mine directly into a ground wire on the engine harness. Ground disparities of feet like you have will cause problems.
I personally grounded mine directly into a ground wire on the engine harness. Ground disparities of feet like you have will cause problems.
#16
Supporting Vendor
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/vendor.png)
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,659
Total Cats: 134
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
IIRC there are 4 total grounds
LC1 Main Ground
Sensor Heater Ground
Output Ground
Calibration Ground
If you are going to use one of the outputs to feed data to an ecu (either sim nb to stock ecu or wb to a piggy/standalone), you need the Output Ground at the same ground as the ecu/piggy/standalone. Other than that, there's not much of a need to get all the ground potentials identical.
What worked best for me is:
LC1 Main Ground--Engine Block
Sensor Heater Ground--Engine Block
Output Ground--Grounded with ECU (tapped at pin 2B I think?)
Calibration Ground--N/A
Power +12v: Something switched at the fuse panel (in the driver's dash/kickpanel area)
I tried many different combinations before I settled on this. You can also source +12v at the ecu.
LC1 Main Ground
Sensor Heater Ground
Output Ground
Calibration Ground
If you are going to use one of the outputs to feed data to an ecu (either sim nb to stock ecu or wb to a piggy/standalone), you need the Output Ground at the same ground as the ecu/piggy/standalone. Other than that, there's not much of a need to get all the ground potentials identical.
What worked best for me is:
LC1 Main Ground--Engine Block
Sensor Heater Ground--Engine Block
Output Ground--Grounded with ECU (tapped at pin 2B I think?)
Calibration Ground--N/A
Power +12v: Something switched at the fuse panel (in the driver's dash/kickpanel area)
I tried many different combinations before I settled on this. You can also source +12v at the ecu.
#18
Tour de Franzia
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So can I literally use the same wires as the MS for power and ground, or do I need to find (care to tell me where) where the MS/emc ground hits the chassis?
Last edited by hustler; 08-23-2007 at 07:46 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
StratoBlue1109
Miata parts for sale/trade
21
09-30-2018 01:09 PM
stoves
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
5
04-21-2016 03:00 PM
JesseTheNoob
DIY Turbo Discussion
15
09-30-2015 02:44 PM