Just finished my first turbo rebuild.. have a few questions
#1
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,573
Total Cats: 12
From: Hermosa Beach, CA
Just finished my first turbo rebuild.. have a few questions
Well I just finished rebuliding my garrett t3 from a mercadies today. I used one of the kits from ebay, came with everything and then some. Its so awesome how it spins much free-r, and there is no shaft play. Now for the Qs:
When I put it together, I used mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic oil to lube everything up. Is that a good oil to use in the car with the turbo?
The turbo has its own wastegate. How can I find out what psi it is set at?
The turbo is THIS ONE http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCE...QQcmdZViewItem
It has its own BOV, anyone have experence with turbos that have their own BOV? Will it work good?
Thanks for the help guys!
When I put it together, I used mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic oil to lube everything up. Is that a good oil to use in the car with the turbo?
The turbo has its own wastegate. How can I find out what psi it is set at?
The turbo is THIS ONE http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCE...QQcmdZViewItem
It has its own BOV, anyone have experence with turbos that have their own BOV? Will it work good?
Thanks for the help guys!
#5
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,573
Total Cats: 12
From: Hermosa Beach, CA
mine doesent have a flexable exhaust thing, it has a 2.5 inch v band flange. Also, its not a VNT or VGT, it just has its own BOV.
Question, Does the v band flange look too thick to you?
Question, Does the v band flange look too thick to you?
#6
For Oil, I think that the recommended weight in the owners manual is 20w50. I used 20w50 when I was naturally aspirated religiously. I've been expirimenting lately changing oil every 2k miles (a different weight every time)to see if I can tell a difference... just for ***** and grins.
I'd planned a report once I'd used six or seven different weights, but I'll let y'all in on my findings now. Bottom line, I've noticed no difference between 20w50, 5w30, 10w30, 15w30, and one or two other weights.
Mobil1 synth FTW.
I'd planned a report once I'd used six or seven different weights, but I'll let y'all in on my findings now. Bottom line, I've noticed no difference between 20w50, 5w30, 10w30, 15w30, and one or two other weights.
Mobil1 synth FTW.
#7
i run 5w-30 in the winter and 10w-40 in the summer...
Engines need oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled.
The first number follow by a W meets SAE low temp ratings (0°). The lower this number the thinner it is, so the better it does in the cold.
The second numer, with no W, is the high temp rating. The higher this number the thicker the oil, so the better it does in the heat.
Engines need oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled.
The first number follow by a W meets SAE low temp ratings (0°). The lower this number the thinner it is, so the better it does in the cold.
The second numer, with no W, is the high temp rating. The higher this number the thicker the oil, so the better it does in the heat.
#12
Some people can adjust the rod length to achieve lower boost but that isn't an ideal way of doing it. You would cut it and use a specal nut to go into the cut section after cutting threads on the rod.
As for the vband, they are very precision machined and are made to be exactly alike. If you ground it down it would surely still not fit another vband you bought somewhere else and would most definitely leak.
I would cut the flange off and weld a new vband on it.
As for the vband, they are very precision machined and are made to be exactly alike. If you ground it down it would surely still not fit another vband you bought somewhere else and would most definitely leak.
I would cut the flange off and weld a new vband on it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post