I told you I'd be back
#1
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Anyway, my car sprang a coolant leak and began overheating a little over a year ago. I changed the following:
-coolant reroute
-giant radiator
-spal fan
-oil cooler and oil filter relocate
-coil on plug setup
The driver's side fan broke on my first drive (some kind of defect in the fins) and so I replaced it with a high flow spal which I haven't taken a picture of yet.
Still waiting on:
-replacement bosch WB02 sensor
-westach analog needle O2 gauge
Pics
![](http://i38.tinypic.com/qn7az6.jpg)
-coolant reroute
-giant radiator
-spal fan
-oil cooler and oil filter relocate
-coil on plug setup
The driver's side fan broke on my first drive (some kind of defect in the fins) and so I replaced it with a high flow spal which I haven't taken a picture of yet.
Still waiting on:
-replacement bosch WB02 sensor
-westach analog needle O2 gauge
Pics
![](http://i38.tinypic.com/qn7az6.jpg)
![](http://i34.tinypic.com/20tkndx.jpg)
#7
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm using every inch of space for the filter. I can't run a larger one.
That silver hose is from the summit catalog- it's a coolant tube for a hot rod. It's meant to be flashy, but I realized that it is also fairly sturdy while being flexible. I didn't want to have to deal with any leaks.
The coolant reroute consists of:
-swap front and back housings. Thermostat and radiator hose goes in back, heater core hose and coolant temperature probe goes in front.
-remove two lines from stalk in front and splice them together while blocking off where they attached on the stalk. This is to ensure more flow from the back of the engine through the intake manifold and back to the water pump manifold. The point of this is to make sure more flow is routed by the rear thermostat while cold (thermostat works fine with this config by the way)
-bigger radiator but nothing else changed.
It seems to work just fine.
That silver hose is from the summit catalog- it's a coolant tube for a hot rod. It's meant to be flashy, but I realized that it is also fairly sturdy while being flexible. I didn't want to have to deal with any leaks.
The coolant reroute consists of:
-swap front and back housings. Thermostat and radiator hose goes in back, heater core hose and coolant temperature probe goes in front.
-remove two lines from stalk in front and splice them together while blocking off where they attached on the stalk. This is to ensure more flow from the back of the engine through the intake manifold and back to the water pump manifold. The point of this is to make sure more flow is routed by the rear thermostat while cold (thermostat works fine with this config by the way)
-bigger radiator but nothing else changed.
It seems to work just fine.
#11
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks. I put a lot of effort into routing everything so it wouldn't rub and making it so that the parts wouldn't move at all. It is a VERY tight fight behind the turn signal light.
You can't see it, but the intercooler is angled back which creates airflow into that blocked off area in front of the radiator. I've put the oil cooler there, right in the middle of the flow.
From the top, looking down into the engine bay:
![](http://i33.tinypic.com/6p3zoh.jpg)
From the engine bay, looking out over the front bumper:
![](http://i36.tinypic.com/91cea9.jpg)
From the ground, looking up through the bumper. Intercooler is in line with line of sight, oil cooler is the black thing:
You can't see it, but the intercooler is angled back which creates airflow into that blocked off area in front of the radiator. I've put the oil cooler there, right in the middle of the flow.
From the top, looking down into the engine bay:
![](http://i33.tinypic.com/6p3zoh.jpg)
From the engine bay, looking out over the front bumper:
![](http://i36.tinypic.com/91cea9.jpg)
From the ground, looking up through the bumper. Intercooler is in line with line of sight, oil cooler is the black thing:
![](http://i35.tinypic.com/jpieqb.jpg)
#12
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think it'll work, but you've got to block off all that open area round the oil cooler (assuming you want the air to exit over the top of the rad). Of course that's going to add pressure to the back side of the rad. And I'd use some aluminum stock to make some hard mounts for your oil cooler. Run 'em from the hood latch bolts to the cooler tabs. Otherwise the bosses on the cooler are going to crack- they're brazed/soldered - not welded.
#15
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
See that silver wire thing with the little clamp on it? That is connected to the steel mounting plate that sticks out from the cooler. You just can't see the actual contact point. The primary load bearing members for the oil cooler are
a) the top intercooler tank. One of the mounting tabs is wedged in there.
b) the front bumper. The other tab is resting on that.
The hood latch and the rear mounting tab are secured against horizontal movement with wire.
The front tab is secured with plastic ties at various places, as you can see. It's very sturdy with no high amount of load at any one place.
a) the top intercooler tank. One of the mounting tabs is wedged in there.
b) the front bumper. The other tab is resting on that.
The hood latch and the rear mounting tab are secured against horizontal movement with wire.
The front tab is secured with plastic ties at various places, as you can see. It's very sturdy with no high amount of load at any one place.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
StratoBlue1109
Miata parts for sale/trade
21
09-30-2018 01:09 PM
stoves
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
5
04-21-2016 03:00 PM