How important is a coolant re-route on a street, stock block turbo car.
10-21-2022 | 11:32 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 289
Total Cats: 4
How important is a coolant re-route on a street, stock block turbo car.
Since I have to drain the coolant anyways to do the turbo install on my NB1, im trying to decided what cooling system parts I should go ahead and upgrade "while im in there." An ebay aluminum radiator seems like a no-brainer. Possible swapping all the 22 year old hoses out for silicone too. Im not sure about the coolant re-route though. At $250+, is this worth it for a stock block street car that is driven year round?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
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10-21-2022 | 11:40 AM
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 673
Total Cats: 191
From: Granbury Texas
Naturally aspirated no, blown yes.
BP6D (NB2) NA and mild street turbo no, serious turbo (10+psi) needs both a NB1 head gasket and a reroute.
Anything tracked yes...
Supermiata crossflow radiator much better than ebay special.
https://949racing.com/product/superm...tor-mx5-miata-
All need proper ducting/lower shields
BP6D (NB2) NA and mild street turbo no, serious turbo (10+psi) needs both a NB1 head gasket and a reroute.
Anything tracked yes...
Supermiata crossflow radiator much better than ebay special.
https://949racing.com/product/superm...tor-mx5-miata-
All need proper ducting/lower shields
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10-22-2022 | 12:38 PM
#6
3 confirmed failures, 2 heater core returns 1 lower rad
1 heater core return caught prior to total failure, confirmed degradation due to proximity/radiant, no contact (turbocharged)
1 heater core return total failure resulting in engine failure, install not inspected, hose removed by owner prior to me seeing it (naturally aspirated)
1 rad lower propagating split from hose end (presumed not related to thermal)
All TC FI applications now get fire sleeved heater core hoses
Mazda OEM used where allowed
Silicone can still be fine for certain cases, for example the FM lower rad is a part I trust and will use.
1 heater core return caught prior to total failure, confirmed degradation due to proximity/radiant, no contact (turbocharged)
1 heater core return total failure resulting in engine failure, install not inspected, hose removed by owner prior to me seeing it (naturally aspirated)
1 rad lower propagating split from hose end (presumed not related to thermal)
All TC FI applications now get fire sleeved heater core hoses
Mazda OEM used where allowed
Silicone can still be fine for certain cases, for example the FM lower rad is a part I trust and will use.
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10-25-2022 | 12:06 PM
#7
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 147
Total Cats: 11
From: Canada
On my NA6 (1.6L), I ran a mild turbo setup for a whole summer without a reroute. Stock rad and everything. 100% fine on the street.
You just don't build up enough temperature in a few pulls for it to matter.
At the track I would get in 2-3 laps before I saw water temps north of 220F and would hit the pits.
Had my laptop in the passenger seat and set the screen to light up red when things got too toasty.
Ran a FM radiator and reroute this past season, was able to run a full 20-30 minute session without issue. I don't even have any ducting/undertray for the IC/radiator either. Although oil temps are another matter (I wonder how badly I cooked the oil without a cooler after that long session?)
You just don't build up enough temperature in a few pulls for it to matter.
At the track I would get in 2-3 laps before I saw water temps north of 220F and would hit the pits.
Had my laptop in the passenger seat and set the screen to light up red when things got too toasty.
Ran a FM radiator and reroute this past season, was able to run a full 20-30 minute session without issue. I don't even have any ducting/undertray for the IC/radiator either. Although oil temps are another matter (I wonder how badly I cooked the oil without a cooler after that long session?)
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10-25-2022 | 02:45 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 289
Total Cats: 4
3 confirmed failures, 2 heater core returns 1 lower rad
1 heater core return caught prior to total failure, confirmed degradation due to proximity/radiant, no contact (turbocharged)
1 heater core return total failure resulting in engine failure, install not inspected, hose removed by owner prior to me seeing it (naturally aspirated)
1 rad lower propagating split from hose end (presumed not related to thermal)
All TC FI applications now get fire sleeved heater core hoses
Mazda OEM used where allowed
Silicone can still be fine for certain cases, for example the FM lower rad is a part I trust and will use.
1 heater core return caught prior to total failure, confirmed degradation due to proximity/radiant, no contact (turbocharged)
1 heater core return total failure resulting in engine failure, install not inspected, hose removed by owner prior to me seeing it (naturally aspirated)
1 rad lower propagating split from hose end (presumed not related to thermal)
All TC FI applications now get fire sleeved heater core hoses
Mazda OEM used where allowed
Silicone can still be fine for certain cases, for example the FM lower rad is a part I trust and will use.
On my NA6 (1.6L), I ran a mild turbo setup for a whole summer without a reroute. Stock rad and everything. 100% fine on the street.
You just don't build up enough temperature in a few pulls for it to matter.
At the track I would get in 2-3 laps before I saw water temps north of 220F and would hit the pits.
Had my laptop in the passenger seat and set the screen to light up red when things got too toasty.
Ran a FM radiator and reroute this past season, was able to run a full 20-30 minute session without issue. I don't even have any ducting/undertray for the IC/radiator either. Although oil temps are another matter (I wonder how badly I cooked the oil without a cooler after that long session?)
You just don't build up enough temperature in a few pulls for it to matter.
At the track I would get in 2-3 laps before I saw water temps north of 220F and would hit the pits.
Had my laptop in the passenger seat and set the screen to light up red when things got too toasty.
Ran a FM radiator and reroute this past season, was able to run a full 20-30 minute session without issue. I don't even have any ducting/undertray for the IC/radiator either. Although oil temps are another matter (I wonder how badly I cooked the oil without a cooler after that long session?)
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