?? Hose getting in the way of PS compatible manifold
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?? Hose getting in the way of PS compatible manifold
So I was out bolting up my manifold and turbo (FM Mani + Chinacharger) and I ran into a problem:
That big motherfucking hose is getting in the way of the chinacharger's boost outlet. What is this and what can I do about this?
That big motherfucking hose is getting in the way of the chinacharger's boost outlet. What is this and what can I do about this?
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What can I do about this getting in the way of mounting my turbo?
#4
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It's actually clamped to that aluminum piece, along with the hard line that is running along the length of the block. That hard line is your heater core line. You can flip that aluminum piece than run a flexible radiator hose to the bottom of your radiator, but then you need to do something about your heater line.
The heater line goes in with an o-ring seal, and is held in by a bracket on the hard line, bolted to the exhaust manifold. Some members have fabbed a way to hold the end of the line in and then clamped a hose to it, routing it back to the heater core.
Mines blocked off completely, with the heater line going to the upper radiator hose, so it's always circulating through the radiator. Note that this causes over cooling in street cars.
Edit: Don't forget that you can also "clock" your turbo, by rotating the part of the housing that has the boost outlet. Some grab the big c-clip and then rotate it. Some put a long piece of wood in or around the outlet and use it as a pry bar. I bashed on it with a hammer.
The heater line goes in with an o-ring seal, and is held in by a bracket on the hard line, bolted to the exhaust manifold. Some members have fabbed a way to hold the end of the line in and then clamped a hose to it, routing it back to the heater core.
Mines blocked off completely, with the heater line going to the upper radiator hose, so it's always circulating through the radiator. Note that this causes over cooling in street cars.
Edit: Don't forget that you can also "clock" your turbo, by rotating the part of the housing that has the boost outlet. Some grab the big c-clip and then rotate it. Some put a long piece of wood in or around the outlet and use it as a pry bar. I bashed on it with a hammer.
#5
I flipped around my aluminum housing "mixing manifold", used two of the original lower radiator hoses to connect it back to the radiator, then some other flexible hose to reconnect to the thermostat and heater line, its out of the way and alll the hoses are still connected. want some pictures?
#6
Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : FM turbo radiator hose
This is what I use. Now I have pimp *** 2-1/2 inch intercooler pipes on the hotside and I still clear the a/c compressorr with ease.
This is what I use. Now I have pimp *** 2-1/2 inch intercooler pipes on the hotside and I still clear the a/c compressorr with ease.
#8
I flipped around my aluminum housing "mixing manifold", used two of the original lower radiator hoses to connect it back to the radiator, then some other flexible hose to reconnect to the thermostat and heater line, its out of the way and alll the hoses are still connected. want some pictures?
#9
Alright so on the amixing manifold that you can clearly see on wayne currs post, there are three hoses exiting the piece. The first step is to take off all the hoses from this aluminum piece, watch out and catch all the coolant that comes out, theres a lot. Then you flip around the mixing manifold 180 degrees. For the little fitting that goes to the thermostat, i cut it so that it was straight now, and just routed a hose from that hose clamped on back to the tstat. for the heater core return line, I cut the metal piece coming out of the mixing manifold so that i had a straight section, then hose clamped another hose from that back to the piece that bolts onto the exhaust flange. And for the big hose, you can use the two original hoses you took off, connected by a straight piece cut out of the original metal piece that held them together. There was some cutting of the original pieces and hoses, so they can't be put back to stock, but i'm not planning on going back to stock.
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Here's the problem I've got now guys:
The picture doesn't really capture the problem very well. That's where the coolant hose used to go into the block, that silicon connector and the pipe is in the only place it can possibly go without having to make a custom wastegate mounting bracket if I clock the turbo.
I'm planning to fun a 90 degree hose strait down which would then connect to the bottom of the radiator in the stock location. Does anyone see anything wrong with this?
The picture doesn't really capture the problem very well. That's where the coolant hose used to go into the block, that silicon connector and the pipe is in the only place it can possibly go without having to make a custom wastegate mounting bracket if I clock the turbo.
I'm planning to fun a 90 degree hose strait down which would then connect to the bottom of the radiator in the stock location. Does anyone see anything wrong with this?
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So, here's my highly detailed and scientific drawing of what I need to make this work.
I just went out and looked at it and I think the best idea is to rout the coolant hose above the intercooler piping and down to the lower radiator.
My question is, where can I get a hose like this? I'm going to try home depot or something tomorrow. What size is the coolant hose?
I just went out and looked at it and I think the best idea is to rout the coolant hose above the intercooler piping and down to the lower radiator.
My question is, where can I get a hose like this? I'm going to try home depot or something tomorrow. What size is the coolant hose?
#14
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Home Depot? Nah dawg, go to NAPA or another similar CAR parts store and just ask to go back and look at their hoses. Find something that looks like it'll work, and buy it. They have hundreds of styles for hundreds of vehicles, so be prepared to look around a while. Don't forget to make sure it's the right diameter.
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And thanks for the advise, I'll shoot up there tomorrow.
#16
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The flex hose I bought from O'rilley's had a metal spring inside, to keep it from kinking. It looked a lot less flexible than some of the ones people on here use though. If you're saying you need a direct 90* down turn I don't think it'll work.
<---hey look, it's 2010. (if you're reading this in the future, this was my 2010th post, get it?)
<---hey look, it's 2010. (if you're reading this in the future, this was my 2010th post, get it?)
#17
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The flex hose I bought from O'rilley's had a metal spring inside, to keep it from kinking. It looked a lot less flexible than some of the ones people on here use though. If you're saying you need a direct 90* down turn I don't think it'll work.
<---hey look, it's 2010. (if you're reading this in the future, this was my 2010th post, get it?)
<---hey look, it's 2010. (if you're reading this in the future, this was my 2010th post, get it?)
Thanks for the help man.
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