GT28R (GT2560R) @ 99/00 Miata - do I need a restrictor?
#1
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GT28R (GT2560R) @ 99/00 Miata - do I need a restrictor?
Hi,
as the title above states - my old TB2529 (came with my original turbo-kit) out of a SAAB 9000 has to go - going with the GT2560R now.
Do I need an oil restrictor for this turbo at my 99/00 Miata?
Thanks
as the title above states - my old TB2529 (came with my original turbo-kit) out of a SAAB 9000 has to go - going with the GT2560R now.
Do I need an oil restrictor for this turbo at my 99/00 Miata?
Thanks
#5
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TurboByGarrett.com - FAQ's
Yes, you make more than 45psi of oil pressure. My last CHRA smoked like crazy on start-up. Now that I have a .060 restrictor, and the new CHRA, I've dropped from 3500 to 3200rpm for target 11.5psi.
Everyone can keep suggesting that you don't need one, but its a $20-40 part that may save you $450 on a CHRA in a few weeks or years.
Ball-bearing turbochargers can benefit from the addition of an oil restrictor, as most engines deliver more pressure than a ball bearing turbo requires. The benefit is seen in improved boost response due to less windage of oil in the bearing. In addition, lower oil flow further reduces the risk of oil leakage compared to journal-bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure entering a ball-bearing turbocharger needs to be between 40 psi and 45 psi at the maximum engine operating speed. For many common passenger vehicle engines, this generally translates into a restrictor with a minimum of 0.040" diameter orifice upstream of the oil inlet on the turbocharger center section. Again, it is imperative that the restrictor be sized according to the oil pressure characteristics of the engine to which the turbo is attached. Always verify that the appropriate oil pressure is reaching the turbo.
The use of an oil restrictor can (but not always) help ensure that you have the proper oil flow/pressure entering the turbocharger, as well as extract the maximum performance.
The use of an oil restrictor can (but not always) help ensure that you have the proper oil flow/pressure entering the turbocharger, as well as extract the maximum performance.
Everyone can keep suggesting that you don't need one, but its a $20-40 part that may save you $450 on a CHRA in a few weeks or years.
#7
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I think I'm going to continue to run with the .060 until someone tells me otherwise, or the turbo starts talking back.
Oh and don't worry, I still have some fab work I need your help with, but my schedule is a wreck.
Oh and don't worry, I still have some fab work I need your help with, but my schedule is a wreck.
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