gt2560r external wastegate. HOW TO WASTE MONEY FOR SPOOL
#82
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Last edited by shuiend; 08-22-2016 at 02:25 PM.
#86
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Yeah mine is good above 3000 and 160 kpa and up. But like I said it might be a bit high in some areas, I think I pulled half a degree here and there whenever I would see a knock on a hot day or something.
The rest needs a lot of work but I am lazy.
The rest needs a lot of work but I am lazy.
#90
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yeah honestly, you could scale your boost spark table with two rows.
27° at 100kPa like 18psi said, then like 16-17° at around 200kPa.
As far as the MS is concerned, this:
is the same as this:
27° at 100kPa like 18psi said, then like 16-17° at around 200kPa.
As far as the MS is concerned, this:
is the same as this:
#91
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my plan is to start adding timing in my 10-14psi cells from 3000-6000rpm. Ive been trying to wrap my head around how jeremy has this base table set up and the best areas to start making changes. Based on my "research" and looking at countless timing maps on here, there is no reason i shouldnt be able to use 4 or 5 more degrees in the midrange
#93
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Where your cylinders damaged from the bent rods?
#95
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change of plans. the guy with the mustang 10 mins from my house can get me in tonight. 3 runs for $125. First run will be how the car sits now-13 psi and FM base timing map. 2nd run will be same psi but with 4 degrees more. 3rd run maybe ill add a degree or 2 after 6000rpm
#96
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change of plans. the guy with the mustang 10 mins from my house can get me in tonight. 3 runs for $125. First run will be how the car sits now-13 psi and FM base timing map. 2nd run will be same psi but with 4 degrees more. 3rd run maybe ill add a degree or 2 after 6000rpm
#98
Has the guy ever had a stock Miata or n/a Miata on that dyno to compare the numbers to?
That's the tricky things bout Mustang dyno's, they can be manipulated so easily that you NEVER know if one is reading low or high. They do not all read low like some people falsely think. You need something to compare to, something to base your numbers off.
Otherwise if it's truly set to read low, you'll see 180whp, get disappointed, start throwing boost and timing at it, make 220 and think you're good, when you're really at like 260 DJ and basically past the limit of your rods.
Just some things to consider.
That's the tricky things bout Mustang dyno's, they can be manipulated so easily that you NEVER know if one is reading low or high. They do not all read low like some people falsely think. You need something to compare to, something to base your numbers off.
Otherwise if it's truly set to read low, you'll see 180whp, get disappointed, start throwing boost and timing at it, make 220 and think you're good, when you're really at like 260 DJ and basically past the limit of your rods.
Just some things to consider.
#99
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anyway, that will give me some time to make sure everything is right and talk to jeremy before the dyno. I also want to make a few timing maps and test them on the street w/ my knock sensor. Then i can quickly load them up in between runs if I want more jam
Last edited by LownSlow616; 08-24-2016 at 01:08 PM.
#100
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can anyone tell me why most forged pistons for the 1.8 are bigger than the standard bore? fab9, trackspeed, 949...all their choices are .5mm over. weisco, supertech, je, etc.
the ONLY off the shelf pistons ive found that are the standard 83mm bore are CP. and they are expensive as hell.
Im going to build that "rods only" engine but if I could do a quick hone at home, why not throw in some stock bore forged pistons?
the ONLY off the shelf pistons ive found that are the standard 83mm bore are CP. and they are expensive as hell.
Im going to build that "rods only" engine but if I could do a quick hone at home, why not throw in some stock bore forged pistons?