Acquired a 97 M with 48k miles a month ago. First thing I had to do was install an aftermarket Pioneer radio so I can BT. I had that done in the first week but since then, it hasn't had any other mods. I've decided that power has to be the next thing I add because, well, my Altima feels faster.

Did a lot of reading on these forums before deciding which route I wanted to take. Originally, I had my heart set on the MK Turbo kit but didn't want to wait till Lars was ready to get those going again. No worries at all! I had plan B already in mind. Going with a gt2560r. It has been purchased and should arrive Friday along with my AEM wideband. Found the turbo off of zilvia forums and hope it will arrive in the condition it was promised.

This already came in the mail today:
Fab9's Vibrant Intercooler. Thatcher (our cat) had to do an inspection. Something about the box it came in smelled funky to him.



I already had the FM Rails sitting in my living room waiting for the day:



Changed out the transmission fluid the other day for Ford's Motorcraft fluid. Got the pump from Amazon and didn't work so well. Had to squeeze the bottle and pump at the same time but got the job done.





I was hoping that the shifting would be less crunchy but nothing had changed. Oh well.

Now I'll need to pick out the manifold + exhaust, injectors, and hoping to get the MS3x from Braineack. I'm thinking a modest hp goal of 170-180whp to start and then work my way up from there. Stock clutch still won't handle that will it?

 

good start.

you can pickup the manifold/dp from flyin miata for $749

The first step is to actually get the MS3 running in your stock car, and learn to tinker with it.
Then get Flow Force ev14 640cc injectors, and retune the MS3.

after this, you can start bolting on the turbo bits.

 

Also: Install an FM stage I clutch. A GT2560R will slip a stock clutch in no time.

 

If you ever feel like doing it again... Give the amsoil a try. It's butter when I shift shift on my 6-speed.

 

Give the motorcraft a break in time. I had the 3rd gear crunch with unknown oil, then replaced and it went away after a long road trip and the shifting got better as well.
Parts choice are wise. Listen to the other guys regarding clutch and injectors.

 

I saw the Begi parts are similar in price. Will either setup require me to modify the rear shelf for downpipe fitment? I believe I read two sides of the story.

 

You will not have to modify the rear shelf. With either though you will most likely have to modify the shelf in front of the shock tower. You can look at the FM instructions to get a better picture of what you will have to modify.

 

You will not have to modify the rear shelf. With either though you will most likely have to modify the shelf in front of the shock tower. You can look at the FM instructions to get a better picture of what you will have to modify.

 

FM mass produces the parts and if website says in stock, then they are in stock and ready to ship.

Begi makes each downpipe to order, and can take weeks/month's to ship. manifolds are likely pre made and ready to ship if in stock.

As for clutch, my stock clutch ( i think its stock, came with car at 170k miles) can hold my GT2560R up to 10-11 psi. and about 210HP. Anything higher and it will slip at full load.
So if you want to get the turbo done and keep a low boost level (up to 10ish psi) your clutch is probably ok for now. so replace when you go for more boost.

 

Just fyi my stock clutch started slipping around 6psi on a 2554. So mileage will vary.

 

Clutch slippage: 5psi-ish with T28 (early Gt2560 I believe)

 

My friend's 91 had no clutch slip on the stock clutch all the way out to 12psi on a TD04 and a bad tune (160-180 would be my guess). My 90 slips at 5psi with an M45 supercharger (maybe 135ish?). So your mileage will vary a lot depending on wear and other things.

 

Thanks for the input so far. I think I'll get it running before I worry about the clutch. I know I'll need it eventually but curious to see how long I can go.

Anyway, this just came in..


Edit: it's the ball bearing version. 0.040 restrictor?

 

How much did you end up paying for that turbo (if you don't mind me asking)? Also, how do you know for sure that it is the ball bearing version? There seems to be a lot of confusion on the s14/5 forums about which of those are bb and which are journal bearing.

 

I believe the BB turbos have 5 bolts connecting the CHRA to the turbine housing and the journals have 4.

 

Interesting. That is good to know!

 

There should be a label on the turbo with the CHRA part number, which you can google to see if its BB or Journal.

like this:

 

i paid 600 shipped. It is new except for a used waste gate. The part number shows up as bb.

 

Progress has been stagnant lately but I went and bought a low profile jack. Found this thing at Harbor Freight. Only issue with it so far is the handle bar won't fascine down with the provided bolt. I'll have to get a longer one to replace this bolt so it can reach the indentation.



It was beautiful last week so I shot some final pics of the car in its stock form.






Expenses came up and had to pay the bills before I could spend more on parts to finish the turbo build. I do have money set aside for a MS3. I'd like to get one from Braineack since it is more budget friendly. But from all the advice I've gathered, I'll install Megasquirt and learn to tune without the turbo first.

My next step after MS3 is to get a manifold and dp. I haven't had any luck getting used FM or Begi parts so I may go ahead and buy the FM manifold and dp package.

 

Holy moly that's a gorgeous car!