Is the gasket required on the turbo side of the manifold?
#1
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Is the gasket required on the turbo side of the manifold?
I know on old motors, some of them didn't have exaust gaskets. Straight metal to metal. That is the way my 2560 to manifold is. Or did the idiot just leave it out. I am going to the parts store now to get a turbo blanket and gasket. Do I need the gasket? I always heard if they seal metal to metal it is better. Once you use a gasket you always have too.
I'm trying to get it together TONIGHT. I have been on it all day. Rusty bolts on manifolds are fun.
I'm trying to get it together TONIGHT. I have been on it all day. Rusty bolts on manifolds are fun.
#3
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And as much trouble as I had getting it off. I wanna make sure it will seal. The guy at Alamo autosports said they all should have one. Other places I called said mabe not.
Anyways I bought a gasket, and a Turbo Blanket...... OHHHH YEAAAA! BaBy!
I can't wait to go Zoooom...Zoom.ZOOM..........
Hey where is LRE??? I guess I'll google it.
#8
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Weeeell Thennnnn.... We will bolt it up direct.
I have the turbo on the car. The oil feed hooked up.
Just as a note. The center bottom bolt to the manifold SUCKS!! I had to grind down a cheap wrench to losen it. I figured when I bolted it on the other motor it would mabe spin up. Wronge, it was a pain. Swapping the turbo cost me 2hrs because of clearance issues. Same with the bottom right bolt on the DP.
But overall it isn't a bad setup. If someone else gets an older FM kit. Be prepaired to buy a set of cheap wrenches that you don't mind grinding & sawing into shape and short lengths........ Harbor Freight was my friend today. I wasn't about to hack my craftmans.
But it will be worth it. I think I'm going to run low boost, like 4psi till Friday. I'm going to have to fabricate somethings to get the intercooler and Bov in. If everything goes smooth. I may have it all in tommorrow.
What all had to be taken off to get the oil pan drilled?
Can I just raise the motor up off the motor mounts, and switch my pans. Or is there not enough room?
I have the turbo on the car. The oil feed hooked up.
Just as a note. The center bottom bolt to the manifold SUCKS!! I had to grind down a cheap wrench to losen it. I figured when I bolted it on the other motor it would mabe spin up. Wronge, it was a pain. Swapping the turbo cost me 2hrs because of clearance issues. Same with the bottom right bolt on the DP.
But overall it isn't a bad setup. If someone else gets an older FM kit. Be prepaired to buy a set of cheap wrenches that you don't mind grinding & sawing into shape and short lengths........ Harbor Freight was my friend today. I wasn't about to hack my craftmans.
But it will be worth it. I think I'm going to run low boost, like 4psi till Friday. I'm going to have to fabricate somethings to get the intercooler and Bov in. If everything goes smooth. I may have it all in tommorrow.
What all had to be taken off to get the oil pan drilled?
Can I just raise the motor up off the motor mounts, and switch my pans. Or is there not enough room?
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To get the sump off the haynes manual says you have to drop the front subframe. I can scan the page for you if you want when I get home.
You guys running without gaskets do you use any sealing compound or assembley paste on there? Or are the surfaces soooo l337 that they just dont leak?
You guys running without gaskets do you use any sealing compound or assembley paste on there? Or are the surfaces soooo l337 that they just dont leak?
#12
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I would say that it would work for farther down the exhaust but not right before the turbo. Youre probably going to burn it up. A buddy of mine used that stuff between the DP and "cat" on his rx7 and he kept burning it up. Now, granted, those spinning triangle thingys have higher egt's but it was at the end of the dp.
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No progress today so far. The carpet guy was in the neighborhood, and he was available instantly. So he fixed my carpet for $50. Now I have to go downtown to set up a DBA.
So buy 3:00 I plain to attack the down pipe and be done by 8:00.
So buy 3:00 I plain to attack the down pipe and be done by 8:00.
#15
I just guessing here -
This is a hot joint. Very hot. So that means in order for a gasket to provide a decent service life in this spot, it would likely need to be made of steel? Steel gaskets aren't cheap. One less thing to buy = advantage the 1st. No gasket means one less thing to possibly fail = advantage the 2nd. And if your mating surfaces are "flat", then a gasket is superfluous anyway. If they're not flat, then they're probably warped, which would necessitate resurfacing of some sort, which would then re-allow a non-gasketed joint. I think? I look at like this: you don't need a faggy red dash when a black one will do just fine, right? Save time, save money, works better - win win win.
#16
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But eveyone loves the Red Man Dash. And you can accent it with those sticky vent holes from Autozone.
But remember, nothing says you love your car more than adding one of their tiger decals to the hood.
But remember, nothing says you love your car more than adding one of their tiger decals to the hood.
#19
If the joint starts blowing then the hot gases can erode the metal and also cause the joint to warp. You can use the gasket by all means but just keep an eye on it and be prepared to pull the turbo if it starts blowing. Do not under any circumstances think "Oh I'll get round to it next week and just nip it up tighter"
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