Forced induction itb set up. Need the manifold for itb
#2
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,011
Total Cats: 859
Corky Bell used to make them. I've seen one, recently, but only from the outside.
Here is a review.
EDIT: No, it had internal trumpets, but was not ITB.
Really.... WHY would you want that?
Here is a review.
EDIT: No, it had internal trumpets, but was not ITB.
Really.... WHY would you want that?
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Swansea, Wales (NOT england) - UK.
Posts: 128
Total Cats: 34
if you've the budget then Jenvey make manifolds & itb setups for the Mazda 1.6 (& 1.8) engines
https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-...x5-16-tb-mmz03
and for FI they make handed plenum's
https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-...-inlet-apsc-60
also they have pdf drawings on their website that are good for visualising (or copying?) thesize & shape for fitment
https://store.jenvey.co.uk/pub/media...gs/MMZ03_D.pdf
https://store.jenvey.co.uk/pub/media...0_WEB_ISS3.pdf
note that their manifolds position the tb's inline with the port for a straight inlet tract, if you go long then can have bonnet (hood?) clearance issues
I looked into this for my 1.6 build but eventually decided on keeping it na but already had a Jenvey inlet manifold (I made adapters to fit GSXR 1300 gen1 itb's)
https://mighty5s.com/post/45798/thread
Rich.
https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-...x5-16-tb-mmz03
and for FI they make handed plenum's
https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-...-inlet-apsc-60
also they have pdf drawings on their website that are good for visualising (or copying?) thesize & shape for fitment
https://store.jenvey.co.uk/pub/media...gs/MMZ03_D.pdf
https://store.jenvey.co.uk/pub/media...0_WEB_ISS3.pdf
note that their manifolds position the tb's inline with the port for a straight inlet tract, if you go long then can have bonnet (hood?) clearance issues
I looked into this for my 1.6 build but eventually decided on keeping it na but already had a Jenvey inlet manifold (I made adapters to fit GSXR 1300 gen1 itb's)
https://mighty5s.com/post/45798/thread
Rich.
#7
ITB's are specifically for separating individual intake pulses in a high compression big cam NA motor.
If you're not running 12 to 1 compression with 300 degree duration cams ITBs will add nothing and on this monster motor the ITBs will only help with idle and part throttle operation.
People think they will add power. This is a false assumption. When you do the induction math on an ITB set up the flow is usually 3-4 times what the engine can flow.
This doesn't mean the engine will now flow 3 times normal, it means the airspeed in the intake will be much lower and mild throttle opening will actually provide less airflow into the chamber reducing low speed torque.
The massive flow that ITBs can provide is ONLY a factor if you original intake becomes restrictive at WOT and 6K plus RPM. Forced induction makes this a moot point.
The only reason ITBs can help part throttle operation on a big cam motor is that they isolate the overlap that occurs at TDC exhaust stroke and keeps the exhaust pressure (that exists because of valve overlap) from effecting other cylinders.
Example: you have a monster motor that will not idle below 1500 rpm with a plenum intake. Pop on a set of ITBs and it will purr like a kitten at 500 rpm. It will eliminate the lumpy idle (that most people want) and make the engine sound stock.
This same engine will exhibit excellent low speed throttle response and will feel stock until you get into the cams "power range" and then it will scream like a Ferrari all the way to redline.
This scream is far more pronounced with NO air filters on it (the air horns increase the scream). You put a filter on it and the scream will be far less noticeable.
They will only create tuning problems in a forced induction motor. They will NOT increase power over a properly sized single throttle body.
Corky Bell is one of my mentors and had nothing but trouble on ITB forced induction applications. Yes, he used to build them for a maximum effort system using Mikuni carbs before the availability of stand alone ECMs
The outer plenum (which enclosed the trumpets) was nearly impossible to seal and when it was achieved it didn't last long.
Go 1.8 engine with a flat top( or Skunk) and end the madness...
I personally like the look and the sound of ITBs. You're going to loose the sound when you boost it so the only thing you will gain is a pretty intake and a super finicky tune.
If you're not running 12 to 1 compression with 300 degree duration cams ITBs will add nothing and on this monster motor the ITBs will only help with idle and part throttle operation.
People think they will add power. This is a false assumption. When you do the induction math on an ITB set up the flow is usually 3-4 times what the engine can flow.
This doesn't mean the engine will now flow 3 times normal, it means the airspeed in the intake will be much lower and mild throttle opening will actually provide less airflow into the chamber reducing low speed torque.
The massive flow that ITBs can provide is ONLY a factor if you original intake becomes restrictive at WOT and 6K plus RPM. Forced induction makes this a moot point.
The only reason ITBs can help part throttle operation on a big cam motor is that they isolate the overlap that occurs at TDC exhaust stroke and keeps the exhaust pressure (that exists because of valve overlap) from effecting other cylinders.
Example: you have a monster motor that will not idle below 1500 rpm with a plenum intake. Pop on a set of ITBs and it will purr like a kitten at 500 rpm. It will eliminate the lumpy idle (that most people want) and make the engine sound stock.
This same engine will exhibit excellent low speed throttle response and will feel stock until you get into the cams "power range" and then it will scream like a Ferrari all the way to redline.
This scream is far more pronounced with NO air filters on it (the air horns increase the scream). You put a filter on it and the scream will be far less noticeable.
They will only create tuning problems in a forced induction motor. They will NOT increase power over a properly sized single throttle body.
Corky Bell is one of my mentors and had nothing but trouble on ITB forced induction applications. Yes, he used to build them for a maximum effort system using Mikuni carbs before the availability of stand alone ECMs
The outer plenum (which enclosed the trumpets) was nearly impossible to seal and when it was achieved it didn't last long.
Go 1.8 engine with a flat top( or Skunk) and end the madness...
I personally like the look and the sound of ITBs. You're going to loose the sound when you boost it so the only thing you will gain is a pretty intake and a super finicky tune.
#14
That was the super super short version...
I didn't elaborate on the issues that actually occur when boosting an ITB set up.
Airflow and pressure causing throttles to stick in the WOT position. Need bigger throttle springs(or smaller throttles). First time I saw this was on a car with NO electronic cut offs, had to turn off the ignition switch at 8K full boost, scary!
Vastly fluctuating MAP signals below 1500 rpm. Make tuning a pain. Additional plenum can help a bit.
Blow through Mikuni carbs leak everywhere above 15 psi of boost. They leak fuel. Not nice.
The fact of a small amount of throttle movement makes for a large increase in engine speed. The critter is "jumpy" and throttle tip in is rapid. Hard to control. Need progressive throttle linkage.
Sourcing the brake booster connection becomes critical. Change to manual brakes or add an electric vacuum pump for brake booster.
Damn difficult to add a AC kick up for use with air conditioning. It can be done but more complexity.
Normal idle air control valve set ups require an additional "plenum" connected to all intake runners and then doesn't work very well. Adding check valves never works like you want them too.
Hard to connect the PCV system to.
The list goes on...
DNMakinson is a old guy like me, He's been doing this stuff a long time and he gives GOOD advice.
His question is appropriate.
What are you trying to gain with a fancy ITB set up?
It's a bit ironic that the K24 is a FAR FAR better candidate for ITBs.
If you have the K24 and are already planning a swap why are you jacking around with a exotic set up on a airflow limited 1.6 mazda motor?
Properly set up that K24 might hit 300+ HP without adding a hair dryer. It would NEED ITBs at that point, big ones...
And DNMakinson might be making fun of me, he called me out once in a post regarding engine balancing and he was RIGHT!
My answers (and time typing them) are usually too long. His advice is useful and much more concise.
A quicker better way might be to ask WHY?
Don't take offense, have a thick skin, you will get good advice on this forum.
And if DKMakinson is messing with me, that's fine. I have a thick skin and once again he might be right.
I didn't elaborate on the issues that actually occur when boosting an ITB set up.
Airflow and pressure causing throttles to stick in the WOT position. Need bigger throttle springs(or smaller throttles). First time I saw this was on a car with NO electronic cut offs, had to turn off the ignition switch at 8K full boost, scary!
Vastly fluctuating MAP signals below 1500 rpm. Make tuning a pain. Additional plenum can help a bit.
Blow through Mikuni carbs leak everywhere above 15 psi of boost. They leak fuel. Not nice.
The fact of a small amount of throttle movement makes for a large increase in engine speed. The critter is "jumpy" and throttle tip in is rapid. Hard to control. Need progressive throttle linkage.
Sourcing the brake booster connection becomes critical. Change to manual brakes or add an electric vacuum pump for brake booster.
Damn difficult to add a AC kick up for use with air conditioning. It can be done but more complexity.
Normal idle air control valve set ups require an additional "plenum" connected to all intake runners and then doesn't work very well. Adding check valves never works like you want them too.
Hard to connect the PCV system to.
The list goes on...
DNMakinson is a old guy like me, He's been doing this stuff a long time and he gives GOOD advice.
His question is appropriate.
What are you trying to gain with a fancy ITB set up?
It's a bit ironic that the K24 is a FAR FAR better candidate for ITBs.
If you have the K24 and are already planning a swap why are you jacking around with a exotic set up on a airflow limited 1.6 mazda motor?
Properly set up that K24 might hit 300+ HP without adding a hair dryer. It would NEED ITBs at that point, big ones...
And DNMakinson might be making fun of me, he called me out once in a post regarding engine balancing and he was RIGHT!
My answers (and time typing them) are usually too long. His advice is useful and much more concise.
A quicker better way might be to ask WHY?
Don't take offense, have a thick skin, you will get good advice on this forum.
And if DKMakinson is messing with me, that's fine. I have a thick skin and once again he might be right.
#15
My k has itb. Hayward itb. I was looking into it for a platform to learn from in a tuning perspective on itb. Since i already have supercharger for 1.6 i wasnt considering removing it for learning. Ill jeep 1.6 supercharged as is and eventually put k itb set up in. Then just move the supercharger set up over to a 1.8 set up for a different vehicle down the road. Unless of course it craps out and damages supercharger set up.
#16
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,011
Total Cats: 859
I thought you did an excellent job of explaining the Why Not
And... I learned a LOT from your 2 answering posts.
DNM
#17
I gotcha. Basically it was something i am willing to do at the time of post. After hearing all the incredibly complex stuff im going to just leave car as is until im ready to k-swap with the itb i already have. Using the kpro that i have. Ill need injectors but whatever that is nothing in the scheme of things.
I think if i had my old buddies still here i would have said whatever and slammed the k in by now. I keep making excuses and doing other parts of the car making it an epic overhaul of utter non-sense. My two other cars i did in stages like a sane human would and they are done basically. Cars are never done right?
800+whp turbo cobra 97
Bmw 335i daily, exhaist, intercoolee upgrade, tuned, suspension, wheels, tires, stereo, tint.
I think if i had my old buddies still here i would have said whatever and slammed the k in by now. I keep making excuses and doing other parts of the car making it an epic overhaul of utter non-sense. My two other cars i did in stages like a sane human would and they are done basically. Cars are never done right?
800+whp turbo cobra 97
Bmw 335i daily, exhaist, intercoolee upgrade, tuned, suspension, wheels, tires, stereo, tint.
#19
That was the super super short version...
I didn't elaborate on the issues that actually occur when boosting an ITB set up.
Airflow and pressure causing throttles to stick in the WOT position. Need bigger throttle springs(or smaller throttles). First time I saw this was on a car with NO electronic cut offs, had to turn off the ignition switch at 8K full boost, scary!
Vastly fluctuating MAP signals below 1500 rpm. Make tuning a pain. Additional plenum can help a bit.
Blow through Mikuni carbs leak everywhere above 15 psi of boost. They leak fuel. Not nice.
The fact of a small amount of throttle movement makes for a large increase in engine speed. The critter is "jumpy" and throttle tip in is rapid. Hard to control. Need progressive throttle linkage.
Sourcing the brake booster connection becomes critical. Change to manual brakes or add an electric vacuum pump for brake booster.
Damn difficult to add a AC kick up for use with air conditioning. It can be done but more complexity.
Normal idle air control valve set ups require an additional "plenum" connected to all intake runners and then doesn't work very well. Adding check valves never works like you want them too.
Hard to connect the PCV system to.
The list goes on...
DNMakinson is a old guy like me, He's been doing this stuff a long time and he gives GOOD advice.
His question is appropriate.
What are you trying to gain with a fancy ITB set up?
It's a bit ironic that the K24 is a FAR FAR better candidate for ITBs.
If you have the K24 and are already planning a swap why are you jacking around with a exotic set up on a airflow limited 1.6 mazda motor?
Properly set up that K24 might hit 300+ HP without adding a hair dryer. It would NEED ITBs at that point, big ones...
And DNMakinson might be making fun of me, he called me out once in a post regarding engine balancing and he was RIGHT!
My answers (and time typing them) are usually too long. His advice is useful and much more concise.
A quicker better way might be to ask WHY?
Don't take offense, have a thick skin, you will get good advice on this forum.
And if DKMakinson is messing with me, that's fine. I have a thick skin and once again he might be right.
I didn't elaborate on the issues that actually occur when boosting an ITB set up.
Airflow and pressure causing throttles to stick in the WOT position. Need bigger throttle springs(or smaller throttles). First time I saw this was on a car with NO electronic cut offs, had to turn off the ignition switch at 8K full boost, scary!
Vastly fluctuating MAP signals below 1500 rpm. Make tuning a pain. Additional plenum can help a bit.
Blow through Mikuni carbs leak everywhere above 15 psi of boost. They leak fuel. Not nice.
The fact of a small amount of throttle movement makes for a large increase in engine speed. The critter is "jumpy" and throttle tip in is rapid. Hard to control. Need progressive throttle linkage.
Sourcing the brake booster connection becomes critical. Change to manual brakes or add an electric vacuum pump for brake booster.
Damn difficult to add a AC kick up for use with air conditioning. It can be done but more complexity.
Normal idle air control valve set ups require an additional "plenum" connected to all intake runners and then doesn't work very well. Adding check valves never works like you want them too.
Hard to connect the PCV system to.
The list goes on...
DNMakinson is a old guy like me, He's been doing this stuff a long time and he gives GOOD advice.
His question is appropriate.
What are you trying to gain with a fancy ITB set up?
It's a bit ironic that the K24 is a FAR FAR better candidate for ITBs.
If you have the K24 and are already planning a swap why are you jacking around with a exotic set up on a airflow limited 1.6 mazda motor?
Properly set up that K24 might hit 300+ HP without adding a hair dryer. It would NEED ITBs at that point, big ones...
And DNMakinson might be making fun of me, he called me out once in a post regarding engine balancing and he was RIGHT!
My answers (and time typing them) are usually too long. His advice is useful and much more concise.
A quicker better way might be to ask WHY?
Don't take offense, have a thick skin, you will get good advice on this forum.
And if DKMakinson is messing with me, that's fine. I have a thick skin and once again he might be right.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post