First turbo build
#21
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Re: band aids.
It's 2013. We don't use smoke signals for long-distance communication, we use smartphones. Because they are easier to use and less chance of horrible failure. Same thing with engine management. Will piggybacks work just like they did in the '90s? Of course, just ask the band-aid king Concealer404. But when you have the option of a standalone ECU that does everything better and safer, why would you bother with smoke signals?
It's 2013. We don't use smoke signals for long-distance communication, we use smartphones. Because they are easier to use and less chance of horrible failure. Same thing with engine management. Will piggybacks work just like they did in the '90s? Of course, just ask the band-aid king Concealer404. But when you have the option of a standalone ECU that does everything better and safer, why would you bother with smoke signals?
#23
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Why couldn't I do a $1000 build? Free turbo, lines, hardware wide band . $100 meth injection, need bov,waste gate, and a few small stuff. But I have the major components. Unless I'm missing something it's within budget
#24
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You need bov, wastegate (if the turbo you have already doesn't have one), downpipe, injectors, megasquirt, manifold, clutch.
A brain.
And you still need a turbo.
You act like nobody here has tried this before. When you have an entire thread of people telling you that you can't do it effectively, and entire thread of power WITH already turbo'd Miatas telling you that you're doing it wrong, what is it in your brain that tells you to just ignore us because we're all wrong?
#25
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What bothers me the most about these n00bs is that its all so easy and simple, and already ultra cheap for them nowadays, and yet they STILL want things simpler, and easier, and cheaper. Its like no matter how awesome things get there will be people that want to be even more half assed about it.
I bet if turbo setups were $200 for a whole proper system, these n00bs would still ponder ways to half *** it up so its $100
*edit: also to answer your question OP,
if your intent is to build a $1000 setup that runs and drives, you will probably succeed. if you want one that actually puts down power, consistently, reliably, and properly, you will probably fail.
I bet if turbo setups were $200 for a whole proper system, these n00bs would still ponder ways to half *** it up so its $100
*edit: also to answer your question OP,
if your intent is to build a $1000 setup that runs and drives, you will probably succeed. if you want one that actually puts down power, consistently, reliably, and properly, you will probably fail.
#26
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$100 meth injection setup is asking for fail. $100 meth injection setup with no standalone to reduce timing in the event of a failure/run out is double fail. All the above with a GT17 heat producer (which sometimes doubles as a turbo) is triple fail.
If you really want to save money than you don't need a BOV. Take your $100 for your BOV, your $100 for your meth system, sell your doodoo box for $200, and spend $400 on this: DIYPNP Nippon Denso 76pin Unassembled Kit DIYAutoTune.com
If you really want to save money than you don't need a BOV. Take your $100 for your BOV, your $100 for your meth system, sell your doodoo box for $200, and spend $400 on this: DIYPNP Nippon Denso 76pin Unassembled Kit DIYAutoTune.com
#30
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Nah, that just cost three cutoff wheels, which i bought from HF, so about $1.50, plus the electricity to run the compressor for 10 minutes.
Unless you're referring to the amount of meth i had to do to make cutting that hole seem like a good idea? In which case, i'm a lightweight, that was only about $20.
Da meth is for my daily driver because i'm too lazy to bother figuring out a way to reduce the amount of advanced timing my decade+ old eprom chip gives, now that i'm gearing up to run about 30psi.
#32
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Yes I'm sure it's a 1752. It's factory off an old Saab. And just because I'm a teenager doesn't mean I'm stupid I have a daily driver and this isn't my first car build. Ive rebuilt a 1.6 and 1.8 miata before and i have a 97 trans am that ive built. Cam stall headers gears trans ect. Tuned by me. And if thats not enough i mow my yard with a 1972 john deer i built myself. So dont assume without learing facts first. The only reason I'm on here is because it's my first turbo build and I wanted to double check my info before I started. Ill check my other turbo when I get home and see if you guys think it's too big. Unless its worth finding another 1752 and doing a twin set up
If you have so much awesome experience, why do you want us to stand between you and eternal glory. You wanted our opinion, and then told us to go **** ourselves. By all means, build away. Since you've rebuilt a 1997 Camaro, you should be able to design jet planes and UFOs and ****.
Subscribed for 1-year post-build review.
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Kids these days...
#34
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a bunch of damage can be done
a bunch of inefficiency can be done
ALL the boost can be done
as for the rest, we're not gonna spoon feed an ignoranus. if you still haven't figured that out you probably never will, so might as well go join clubricer now and avoid the tears.
seriously. we'd love to help you, but we can't do that when you're full retard.
a bunch of inefficiency can be done
ALL the boost can be done
as for the rest, we're not gonna spoon feed an ignoranus. if you still haven't figured that out you probably never will, so might as well go join clubricer now and avoid the tears.
seriously. we'd love to help you, but we can't do that when you're full retard.
#40
Cpt. Slow
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Insulting new members has always been a MT tradition, but we're trying to clean up our reputation on MT a little bit, so insults without added help before or afterwords will not be tolerated.
OP, we do speak the truth. Throw that turbo away or sell it. It truly is worthless, have another look at my compressor map post. You'll be straining the everliving **** out of it for 9hp more than stock.
Find an SR20 turbo, they can be had for $50-$150 all over the internet. Rebuild it from gopopshop.com for $100.
Buy one of the cast log manifold off ebay. They're $125. All other manifolds WILL fail within ~2 weeks.
The next hardest part will be fabricating a downpipe. An exhaust shot should be able to make a crush bent DP for relatively cheap if you bring them a $20 flange.
Go ahead and use the voodoo box, however as others have hinted, a MS1 can be found for WAY under $1000. Even under $400. So yes, when the voodoo box is $415, there really is no excuse to run it instead of a megasquirt. And as said above, if you can't afford the fueling (in this case MS is the cheapest option), you can't afford to turbocharge the car.
If the ebay manifold and custom downpipe seem daunting, another option is a new or used FM or BEGI cast manifold, their downpipes (again, new or used) are pretty easy to find online.
Good luck with the rest, we'll try to give some more useful advice along the way.
OP, we do speak the truth. Throw that turbo away or sell it. It truly is worthless, have another look at my compressor map post. You'll be straining the everliving **** out of it for 9hp more than stock.
Find an SR20 turbo, they can be had for $50-$150 all over the internet. Rebuild it from gopopshop.com for $100.
Buy one of the cast log manifold off ebay. They're $125. All other manifolds WILL fail within ~2 weeks.
The next hardest part will be fabricating a downpipe. An exhaust shot should be able to make a crush bent DP for relatively cheap if you bring them a $20 flange.
Go ahead and use the voodoo box, however as others have hinted, a MS1 can be found for WAY under $1000. Even under $400. So yes, when the voodoo box is $415, there really is no excuse to run it instead of a megasquirt. And as said above, if you can't afford the fueling (in this case MS is the cheapest option), you can't afford to turbocharge the car.
If the ebay manifold and custom downpipe seem daunting, another option is a new or used FM or BEGI cast manifold, their downpipes (again, new or used) are pretty easy to find online.
Good luck with the rest, we'll try to give some more useful advice along the way.