Do-overs?
#1
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Do-overs?
Saw this mentioned in another thread.
Armed with what you know now, what would you have done differently with your setup from day one?
Example:
I wouldn't have bothered with my 2.5" exhaust and would gotten 3" from the beginning.
I wouldn't have bothered with a bipes/fpr setup and would have gone straight for megasquirt.
I think this might be a useful thread for the noobs to steer them away from the temptation to make quick cheap decisions instead of the right ones.
Armed with what you know now, what would you have done differently with your setup from day one?
Example:
I wouldn't have bothered with my 2.5" exhaust and would gotten 3" from the beginning.
I wouldn't have bothered with a bipes/fpr setup and would have gone straight for megasquirt.
I think this might be a useful thread for the noobs to steer them away from the temptation to make quick cheap decisions instead of the right ones.
#4
I wish I had not ignored everything that had to do with turbo's while I was researching and building a SC setup. Cause I never finished the SC setup and then had to "start over" and learn everything I could about turbos. In short, don't distract yourself with a SC for any reason. Turbo FTW.
And if you have moddest power goals, get high ohm injectors and MS1 to control them. I got MS2 and low ohm injectors and come to find out MS2 doesn't like to fire them. It works, but not well. Should have got high ohm injectors since they're only 550s.
#8
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If I hadn't wasted money and time on all kinds of parts that I ended up taking off, I wouldn't know as much as I know. Experience translates to knowledge. As far as a recommendation for somelike like a Newb, I'd say...only buy quality parts. Stay away from e-bay, and only buy from FM or BEGI. If someone was installing a turbo, I'd say, get a BEGI "S" series kit with a GT2560 for a 90-97 and run MS. For a '99 on up I'd go the Hydra route and get the FMII complete kit. I'd also say, stay away from anything like a voo-doo box or a Zoom3, install a FMU that you can run more than 8psi on, cause you'll want to run it eventually. Do one thing at a time, cause it makes things a lot easier to troubleshoot.
#11
I wouldn't have searched high and low for the best possible buy on used parts that sometimes turned out to be junk. I would have bought exactly what I wanted new or near new from reliable sellers. I wasted a lot of time and money settling for what I could get used, at the time I convinced myself I needed it. I wouldn't be happy and I'd end up buying and installing yet another used part that again wasn't exactly what I wanted.
Lot's of stuff (particularly suspension parts) it didn't pay to be cheap.
Lot's of stuff (particularly suspension parts) it didn't pay to be cheap.
#13
I wouldn't have searched high and low for the best possible buy on used parts that sometimes turned out to be junk. I would have bought exactly what I wanted new or near new from reliable sellers. I wasted a lot of time and money settling for what I could get used, at the time I convinced myself I needed it. I wouldn't be happy and I'd end up buying and installing yet another used part that again wasn't exactly what I wanted.
Lot's of stuff (particularly suspension parts) it didn't pay to be cheap.
Lot's of stuff (particularly suspension parts) it didn't pay to be cheap.
My best theory is if it moves, buy it new. Or course there are exceptions. I bought a new (not rebuilt) turbo. But I bought it second hand to save some money. Really, the only thing used I bought was a manifold (took my chances but it looks good) and a clutch. Wish I had bought a new clutch, but I got a deal on it so I figured if it was bad I wouldn't be out too much. But now I need a TOB and pilot bearing, and an alignment tool. So add in the cost of those parts, and I get closer and closer to the cost of a new one that would have included these essential parts.
#15
Actually, I like the badaids for low boost. I don't have to worry about cold starts, or any of that crap.
And I also wish I would of left the 2 1/2 inch exhaust. For a race car,,,, 3" all the way. But for a DD I would prefer something that I can hear the radio in.
But I did go ms from the start for my higher boost car. I know this sounds bad. But I would of hooked up the turbo and bandaids I had instead of waiting months of fun saving for mspnp. I thought it would take me a month. Everything kept coming up.
It isn't that hard to tune MS, You just have to find a abandoned road or parking lot, and slowly work your way into it. AND NOT FLOOR IT TO THE BOOST YOU WANT! FIRST TIME OUT. You work your way there.
Buy the name brand stuff. If you are planning on spending $1300 on a diy, I would buy begi S kit.
And I also wish I would of left the 2 1/2 inch exhaust. For a race car,,,, 3" all the way. But for a DD I would prefer something that I can hear the radio in.
But I did go ms from the start for my higher boost car. I know this sounds bad. But I would of hooked up the turbo and bandaids I had instead of waiting months of fun saving for mspnp. I thought it would take me a month. Everything kept coming up.
It isn't that hard to tune MS, You just have to find a abandoned road or parking lot, and slowly work your way into it. AND NOT FLOOR IT TO THE BOOST YOU WANT! FIRST TIME OUT. You work your way there.
Buy the name brand stuff. If you are planning on spending $1300 on a diy, I would buy begi S kit.
Last edited by Toddcod; 12-03-2008 at 09:43 PM.
#19
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I would have built up on a nicer car, would have spent more time looking for the right car to buy at first. would not have put $800 carillo rods in a motor that is going with a car I am about to sell for around $1000.