Yes, I can change the internal sensor values!
Let's change it

 

Yes, there is no default EDA tool which everybody likes. Me being an EE spending quite a lot of my time designing PCBs I have tried many of the available tools and there is not a single one that fully satisfies me.
On day to day basis I use Cadence Allegro, which is quite expensive. For personal use and hobby use I prefer to use KiCAD and I advise everybody to do the same. Having said that: KiCAD is not perfect and completely logical either, but better than EAGLE in my opinion.

Yes, it is a very common fuel in Italy, Netherlands and other European countries. It is Liquid Propane Gas.
Especially here in the Netherlands LPG is much cheaper per litre compared to petrol. Downside is the yearly fixed tax, which is much higher for LPG cars: so you have to do at least ~15.000 km/year to make up for the difference.
Not completely sure about the prices in Italy, but I know it is very popular there as well.

DNA54: how are your exhaust valves and seats doing when driving on LPG? I know the later Mazda MZR engines and alike do not like LPG at all and wear out their exhaust valves within 100.000km when driven hard. The later BP-4W engine with the fixed lifters does not make for a great LPG engine is my fear. Do you run some valve saving liquid spray setup?

 

The exhaust valves after 20.000 km of severe lpg abuse (90% the car ran lpg) were perfect, and I didn't use anything for additional lubrification. Prices here are 0,45-0,57 €/liter, instead of 1,45€/liter of gasoline

Well, a little update: yesterday I accidentaly shorted the 5V rail to gnd and the ecu is gone, time for a new one... but all my budget is around 100 euros, so the car has to be stopped for a while!

 

Send it in for a fix?

 

Solved! It was the voltage regulator, at first I thought it was something worst
Swapped for a LM1575-5.0 and it's back on road!
I also used the external 4-bar map

No luck for the medium boost actuator... maximum boost I can reach is 235 kPa after 6000 rpm, ebc solenoid closed.
I need the high boost actuator asap

 

I'm beginning to be scared every pull because of the stock oil pump and engine damper...
Because I have to pull the engine to change it, I think I will change the supertech rings for the wiseco and rebalance the crankshaft/flywheel too, and finally raise the rev limiter to 8000

 

I went to a trackday at Modena, never run such a big track, the straight ends at around 200 kph (with a different driver, even more )








oh, and there was around 20 fd's
I'm torn on selling the miata to buy one of these or finish the project...

 

After some research I find out that my 350hp intercooler is causing a huge drop after 5k rpm, like 55 kPa at full boost!
Since I really want to buy an fd3s I ordered another chinese ic, a 450hp one and a set of slx coils
This is the third time I change the toyota cops, I can run them for around 3000km before they start to missfire and I have to gap the spark plugs to 0.6mm

 

I had all sort of issues with Toyota cops, even more so when the car was cold. Switching to LS coils with OEM coils was the real solution.

 

IC is arrived, really bigger, not double the size of the core, but almost there

Now I'm struggled with the air conditioning...
Has anyone installed a big intercooler keeping the a/c?

 

I ran a 20x12x3 core IC on my 99 up front. It fit with a/c, but it blocked a ton of airflow so even though it "worked", the car's cooling for the radiator took a huge hit because of it. I ended up moving the IC up some to get more clean air to the radiator, pulling the a/c condenser, and putting the a/c condenser in the trunk so that I could still have a/c, while not killing my air or coolant temps in the process. There is no easy button to have it all, you stack 3 big heat exchangers up front and try to make them share the airflow, and effectiveness suffers.

 

Really?
I mean, how did you move the condenser? Any pics of the work?
Here in sardinia the a/c is a must, expecially since is my daily car, so I'm opened to all the solutions

 

It was a lot of work. Only reason I did it was I didn't want to compromise on engine coolant and air temps, and that's just not possible with an a/c condenser up front. I tried SEVERAL setups, measuring temps everywhere and nothing worked very well until I pulled the condenser out of the front stack and got clean air to the radiator.

Few pics:

 

Wow.. it's really a LOT of work
Since I've got the lpg tank and a big muffler my solution will probably be something like modify the condenser to put the ic really close to it and ducting...
maybe it's a good solution to separate the flow in the mouth , up to the radiator over the ic, and down to the ic itself
oh and a new extractor to create a low pressure area after the radiator

I hope it works, will update soon

 

Whatever you do, try to maximize clean airflow to the radiator. The radiator is the heat exchanger that needs to dump the most heat. A new a/c condenser can help if the fins on your current one are bent, as a new one will help let air flow through it to the other heat exchangers.

You can see in this pic that air can go under and around my IC, so that clean air can get to the radiator. Ducting of course to force that air to the radiator.

 

Update:
I had to move the condenser, because this ic have the same width of the radiator, I bent the lower pipe too, and removed the condenser mount. Now there is enough space to fit it very close to the a/c radiator





now that's "clean"













that's just to see if the condenser interferes with something, and the answer is no

Now it's time to do the mounts for the condenser, p/s radiator and ic

 

double post

 

Now that's almost finished, last thing is to finish the ducting and mount the undertray

new position for the ps radiator



and for the horn



I'm starting from the oem ducting this time









not pretty to see, but functional.
After the undertray, time for a new clutch

 

From now on the car is for sale in Italy, if I didn't found a buyer it will be part out, so expect some pretty stuff on the classifields

Oh, thanks to curly I have now the last piece needed to finish the build:





billet gears for vvt and a donor vvt pump, gears are in good shape
Now I can build the engine again to install billet oil pump, wiseco rings (supertech ones burns oil) and a new 6 pluck clutch!

Oh, and the intercooler ducting is complete, I can tune again with the 450hp core

 

The ducting is awesome! I'm running with mat 15 over ambient (35+ celsius) and coolant 85 cruising and 95 driving hard... never be so cold, even this winter!
Only big difference is the undertray, it's the first time I installed one.

C6 coils are arrived with pigtails, just bought the spark wires too