DIY preliminary results
#121
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I'll take that challenge. I'm selling my exhaust and will replace it with a $2.50 up pipe!
On a somewhat related note, not sure if I mentioned another exhaust upgrade that happenend a while back.
A friend with a 400whp S2k unbolted his straight through Magnaflow while on the dyno and picked up 21whp. I didn't believe it until I removed my muffler. Significantly more power everywhere, spool happens sooner and less abruptly so the tires don't get shocked as badly. So, more power, more traction, more noise. It was 95db at autox. I drove it on the street a few days and I admit that it was way too loud.
My conclusion was that a straight through 3" muffler has a significant effect on power and that if I could do a >4" exhaust, I would. Kills me when people say that a 2.5" exhaust is fine if you make <X whp. Maybe that's the reason they make <X whp!
So, I did spend $16.95 shipped on a v-band to make muffler removal a five minute task. I know, I'm so bourgeois.
On a somewhat related note, not sure if I mentioned another exhaust upgrade that happenend a while back.
A friend with a 400whp S2k unbolted his straight through Magnaflow while on the dyno and picked up 21whp. I didn't believe it until I removed my muffler. Significantly more power everywhere, spool happens sooner and less abruptly so the tires don't get shocked as badly. So, more power, more traction, more noise. It was 95db at autox. I drove it on the street a few days and I admit that it was way too loud.
My conclusion was that a straight through 3" muffler has a significant effect on power and that if I could do a >4" exhaust, I would. Kills me when people say that a 2.5" exhaust is fine if you make <X whp. Maybe that's the reason they make <X whp!
So, I did spend $16.95 shipped on a v-band to make muffler removal a five minute task. I know, I'm so bourgeois.
#124
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I've held off posting pictures due to the non-SEMA/PRI/Hondatech level of fabrication. I forgot that it is about function and value(dirt cheap and diy), so here it is.
The brace is made of light gauge steel and bolts to the A/C bracket and the head. I drilled the hole in the A/C bracket and used an existing spot on the head to bolt to.
There are various relief cuts for clearance. I've reinforced these areas as necessary
View from the front:
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/diy-turbo-discussion-14/58267-diy-preliminary-results-dvcn-369-albums-1991-517-picture-brace-front-breather-2782.jpg?dateline=1351097841)
The brace bolts to the turbo oil feed flange.
View from top driver's side:
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/diy-turbo-discussion-14/58268-diy-preliminary-results-dvcn-369-albums-1991-517-picture-brace-top-3-2778.jpg?dateline=1351097841)
The wastegate exhaust pipe brace is a piece of angle welded to the pipe and bolted to an exhaust stud.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/diy-turbo-discussion-14/58269-diy-preliminary-results-dvcn-369-albums-1991-517-picture-brace-ewg-vta-brace-1-2779.jpg?dateline=1351097841)
More pictures here.
The brace is made of light gauge steel and bolts to the A/C bracket and the head. I drilled the hole in the A/C bracket and used an existing spot on the head to bolt to.
There are various relief cuts for clearance. I've reinforced these areas as necessary
View from the front:
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/diy-turbo-discussion-14/58267-diy-preliminary-results-dvcn-369-albums-1991-517-picture-brace-front-breather-2782.jpg?dateline=1351097841)
The brace bolts to the turbo oil feed flange.
View from top driver's side:
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/diy-turbo-discussion-14/58268-diy-preliminary-results-dvcn-369-albums-1991-517-picture-brace-top-3-2778.jpg?dateline=1351097841)
The wastegate exhaust pipe brace is a piece of angle welded to the pipe and bolted to an exhaust stud.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/diy-turbo-discussion-14/58269-diy-preliminary-results-dvcn-369-albums-1991-517-picture-brace-ewg-vta-brace-1-2779.jpg?dateline=1351097841)
More pictures here.
#128
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I know, resurrecting old thread but... this is nearly inconceivable. How is it so durable with so little care and attention? How can you cobble this together and it lasts forever but others spend $$$$ and break stuff?
Great job.
Great job.
#129
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This setup is approaching six years old!
Proof of life:
https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-tim...2/#post1000987
12.30@118.39mph
#131
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I also have to give some sort of thanks for the house(and occupants) not being flattened by a falling tree!
(I cut down a 60' rotten tree hanging over the casa only after m2cupcar had ugly carnage from a falling tree)
#132
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It is officially over six years with the original basic hardware:
-stock 96 motor w/over 225k miles, head never off, JB Welded crank pulley
-SS Autochrome manifold
-eBay T3/T4 churbo
-eBay intercooler and piping
-DIY <$180 (including muffler) turbo back 3" exhaust made from steel pipe from Summit Racing. Zero failures, cracks or bailing wire.
-stock 1991 1.6 coil packs with NGK wires.
This is the first test of the $35 launch control/flat shift. Needs fine tuning but has great promise. I'd do a three line writeup but everyone else's ecu has it built in. There are multiple benefits to this setup that really save the driveline.
On a previous trip to the track, it was popping through the traps. The guesses of valve float, spark blowout or knock were wrong. It was bouncing off of the boost cut. I raised the boost cut level and it ran fine through the traps at 118.89mph at slightly less boost than when it ran 118.39mph. Bouncing off of limiters does that!
Just fabbed a short shifter that will greatly increase shift speed and accuracy.
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...shifter-73848/
Don't drink the Kool-Aid, do what works for you. It is possible to have a fun and reliable turbo car on a budget.
-stock 96 motor w/over 225k miles, head never off, JB Welded crank pulley
-SS Autochrome manifold
-eBay T3/T4 churbo
-eBay intercooler and piping
-DIY <$180 (including muffler) turbo back 3" exhaust made from steel pipe from Summit Racing. Zero failures, cracks or bailing wire.
-stock 1991 1.6 coil packs with NGK wires.
This is the first test of the $35 launch control/flat shift. Needs fine tuning but has great promise. I'd do a three line writeup but everyone else's ecu has it built in. There are multiple benefits to this setup that really save the driveline.
On a previous trip to the track, it was popping through the traps. The guesses of valve float, spark blowout or knock were wrong. It was bouncing off of the boost cut. I raised the boost cut level and it ran fine through the traps at 118.89mph at slightly less boost than when it ran 118.39mph. Bouncing off of limiters does that!
Just fabbed a short shifter that will greatly increase shift speed and accuracy.
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...shifter-73848/
Don't drink the Kool-Aid, do what works for you. It is possible to have a fun and reliable turbo car on a budget.
#135
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No.
I can make unlimited passes with zero additional turbo wear or damage, no plug fouling and less driveline shock than street driving.
The $35 system does need tuning on the clutch switch timing, limiter set point, boost control, tire pressure and a number of other things.
I repeat, there is near zero gear shock and very little use of the synchros.
Again, this is a real street car that is used to make Costco runs and haul tools. I need anti lag as much as I need full aero, a coolant reroute, big radiator, a built motor, the ecu de jour, a smaller turbo, etc. I wouldn't mind traction control though. It would be very useful when towing the trailer on the uphill gravel road that I use regularly. Also wouldn't mind a locker/clutch/welded diff since the Torsen has hurt me in mud and harsh terrain.
To not be a jerk, if someone gives me an ecu with anti lag, launch control and flat shift, I will install and use it.
I can make unlimited passes with zero additional turbo wear or damage, no plug fouling and less driveline shock than street driving.
The $35 system does need tuning on the clutch switch timing, limiter set point, boost control, tire pressure and a number of other things.
I repeat, there is near zero gear shock and very little use of the synchros.
Again, this is a real street car that is used to make Costco runs and haul tools. I need anti lag as much as I need full aero, a coolant reroute, big radiator, a built motor, the ecu de jour, a smaller turbo, etc. I wouldn't mind traction control though. It would be very useful when towing the trailer on the uphill gravel road that I use regularly. Also wouldn't mind a locker/clutch/welded diff since the Torsen has hurt me in mud and harsh terrain.
To not be a jerk, if someone gives me an ecu with anti lag, launch control and flat shift, I will install and use it.
#136
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someone needs to give you a MS3 then!
i understand your concerns, I can just hear the turbo spool after you've launched; would be cool to see trap times if the turbo was spooled at launch.
i understand your concerns, I can just hear the turbo spool after you've launched; would be cool to see trap times if the turbo was spooled at launch.
#137
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I would LOVE to be given an MS3. I'd even run a big sticker on the side of the car!
Last edited by dvcn; 07-30-2013 at 09:38 PM.