Diy intercooler piping teaser
#21
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Looks good, however it's a lot more work than is needed especially when you can do it without having to cut holes and remove fenders.
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#24
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Hey Ive never seen routing like that before, thats pretty slick ![Biggthumpup](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
Im considering doing something kind of similar, except on an NB, so I think I can route mine down, like this:
![](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g115/31337_tom/DSC00237.jpg)
but i suppose you cant do that due to the headlights, haha
but anyway keep up the good work and keep us posted!
![Biggthumpup](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
Im considering doing something kind of similar, except on an NB, so I think I can route mine down, like this:
![](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g115/31337_tom/DSC00237.jpg)
but i suppose you cant do that due to the headlights, haha
but anyway keep up the good work and keep us posted!
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#29
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If the charge pipes are absorbing some of the heat the radiator is... radiating.... you're expecting the air passing through the hot pipes to not get compromised? That's bold.
Take a map torch to an aluminum pipe, get it to 200*F, blow air at turbo-psi (10psi, whatever) through the pipe and tell me the air coming out the other end isn't warmer than the air going in.
Not to be rude but this is like 3rd grade 101.
On the "less bends = faster response" statement:
I'm betting you could route the charge pipes out the fender, down the side of the car, wrapping around the tail lights, back up the passenger side, and into the intake, effectively using 18 feet of chargepipe, and you wouldn't notice a hint of hesitation.
Take a map torch to an aluminum pipe, get it to 200*F, blow air at turbo-psi (10psi, whatever) through the pipe and tell me the air coming out the other end isn't warmer than the air going in.
Not to be rude but this is like 3rd grade 101.
On the "less bends = faster response" statement:
I'm betting you could route the charge pipes out the fender, down the side of the car, wrapping around the tail lights, back up the passenger side, and into the intake, effectively using 18 feet of chargepipe, and you wouldn't notice a hint of hesitation.
#30
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like neo, i doubt it matter how hot the pipe really. the air is moving so fast within the pipe it will be hard for it to absorb much/any heat from the surface of the pipe. some, but not much.
likewise, unsure about the bends, I'm sure its fast enough that bends/length doesn't matter, but it certain would be more "ideal" to be as straight and short as possible.
likewise, unsure about the bends, I'm sure its fast enough that bends/length doesn't matter, but it certain would be more "ideal" to be as straight and short as possible.
#32
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If the charge pipes are absorbing some of the heat the radiator is... radiating.... you're expecting the air passing through the hot pipes to not get compromised? That's bold.
Take a map torch to an aluminum pipe, get it to 200*F, blow air at turbo-psi (10psi, whatever) through the pipe and tell me the air coming out the other end isn't warmer than the air going in.
Not to be rude but this is like 3rd grade 101.
On the "less bends = faster response" statement:
Take a map torch to an aluminum pipe, get it to 200*F, blow air at turbo-psi (10psi, whatever) through the pipe and tell me the air coming out the other end isn't warmer than the air going in.
Not to be rude but this is like 3rd grade 101.
On the "less bends = faster response" statement:
#40
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