COPS install, pinging/spark blowout
#22
Frustrating problem. Just to throw stuff out off the top of my head:
1. Engine cam/crank timing verified.
2. Crank pulley mark verified.
3. Engine ignition timing verified against crank pulley mark.
4. Correct heat range spark plugs installed.
5. Plugs gapped to about .030 (you can open up later once it's running well).
6. Dwell angle correct for COPS.
7. MS ignition map verified (looks similar to other conservative maps -- or use MSPNP base map).
8. MS overboost and rpm limit settings verified.
9. Others???
1. Engine cam/crank timing verified.
2. Crank pulley mark verified.
3. Engine ignition timing verified against crank pulley mark.
4. Correct heat range spark plugs installed.
5. Plugs gapped to about .030 (you can open up later once it's running well).
6. Dwell angle correct for COPS.
7. MS ignition map verified (looks similar to other conservative maps -- or use MSPNP base map).
8. MS overboost and rpm limit settings verified.
9. Others???
#23
Frustrating problem. Just to throw stuff out off the top of my head:
1. Engine cam/crank timing verified.
2. Crank pulley mark verified.
3. Engine ignition timing verified against crank pulley mark.
4. Correct heat range spark plugs installed.
5. Plugs gapped to about .030 (you can open up later once it's running well).
6. Dwell angle correct for COPS.
7. MS ignition map verified (looks similar to other conservative maps -- or use MSPNP base map).
8. MS overboost and rpm limit settings verified.
9. Others???
1. Engine cam/crank timing verified.
2. Crank pulley mark verified.
3. Engine ignition timing verified against crank pulley mark.
4. Correct heat range spark plugs installed.
5. Plugs gapped to about .030 (you can open up later once it's running well).
6. Dwell angle correct for COPS.
7. MS ignition map verified (looks similar to other conservative maps -- or use MSPNP base map).
8. MS overboost and rpm limit settings verified.
9. Others???
#24
The Toyota coils fire when triggered from 0v to 5v correct? should my spark output be inverted?
edit: I suppose not, since I dont have the special spark-output circuit.
Any other ideas? The pic of my piston looks like it does have some carbon buildup; could this cause hot spots?
edit: I suppose not, since I dont have the special spark-output circuit.
Any other ideas? The pic of my piston looks like it does have some carbon buildup; could this cause hot spots?
Last edited by mellowout; 03-20-2013 at 06:02 PM.
#26
have you checked your cops to see if they are firing? I'm not sure about MS1, but there is an output test mode for ms3. I hope you didn't leave your coils connected while upgrading your firmware. I've gone through a few coils because I've forgotten myself, and I realized after the fact. Could be that one or two coils are going intermittent when warm?
#27
have you checked your cops to see if they are firing? I'm not sure about MS1, but there is an output test mode for ms3. I hope you didn't leave your coils connected while upgrading your firmware. I've gone through a few coils because I've forgotten myself, and I realized after the fact. Could be that one or two coils are going intermittent when warm?
#28
I had perfectly fine coils before, then forgot to unhook them like a good boy when I upgraded my firmware, and the car would start fine, but then would misfire like crazy when I went into any kind of boost. It would only get worse from there as in idle, I'd hear tiny little blips, but the car still ran fine while out of boost. I swapped in an extra set of coils I had and no more problems. It's nice to be able to make a log file, or see my a/f gauge go rich for a split second, and have a test mode to see which coil is dead. I had 2 that eventually completely died
If you do have an output test mode, pull your cops, put plugs in them, and click the test coil option and see if you see them firing. Might be better if you test them after the car is warmed up, hopefully without burning yourself
Could be something is fried on the inside and as it cools, the connection within is fine. As it warms up, things expand, and that connection might be arcing inside? or not making a connection at all? I'm only speculating. Easiest way would be to pull the coils, stick some spark plugs in them so you can see it spark under test mode
If you do have an output test mode, pull your cops, put plugs in them, and click the test coil option and see if you see them firing. Might be better if you test them after the car is warmed up, hopefully without burning yourself
Could be something is fried on the inside and as it cools, the connection within is fine. As it warms up, things expand, and that connection might be arcing inside? or not making a connection at all? I'm only speculating. Easiest way would be to pull the coils, stick some spark plugs in them so you can see it spark under test mode
#29
I had perfectly fine coils before, then forgot to unhook them like a good boy when I upgraded my firmware, and the car would start fine, but then would misfire like crazy when I went into any kind of boost. It would only get worse from there as in idle, I'd hear tiny little blips, but the car still ran fine while out of boost. I swapped in an extra set of coils I had and no more problems. It's nice to be able to make a log file, or see my a/f gauge go rich for a split second, and have a test mode to see which coil is dead. I had 2 that eventually completely died
If you do have an output test mode, pull your cops, put plugs in them, and click the test coil option and see if you see them firing. Might be better if you test them after the car is warmed up, hopefully without burning yourself
Could be something is fried on the inside and as it cools, the connection within is fine. As it warms up, things expand, and that connection might be arcing inside? or not making a connection at all? I'm only speculating. Easiest way would be to pull the coils, stick some spark plugs in them so you can see it spark under test mode
If you do have an output test mode, pull your cops, put plugs in them, and click the test coil option and see if you see them firing. Might be better if you test them after the car is warmed up, hopefully without burning yourself
Could be something is fried on the inside and as it cools, the connection within is fine. As it warms up, things expand, and that connection might be arcing inside? or not making a connection at all? I'm only speculating. Easiest way would be to pull the coils, stick some spark plugs in them so you can see it spark under test mode
Those symptoms sound exactly like mine. However, I dont think MS1 has an output test mode. Wonder if theres a way to bench test it without having to crank the car. I assume that my spark would appear normal if I were to just try to crank it and watch the spark.
Sounds shady, but could I just hook a drill up to my CAS, run it, and watch the plugs fire?
#30
I don't have COPs on the Miata, but I do on other cars (Ford Expeditions). COPs definitely have reliability issues. I've tried to find bad COPs by ohming with a multi-meter, but always got OK indications. Like bmx said, when they misfire, it is usually temperature related. Only sure way to find them is to swap them out based upon a consistent misfire code -- which doesn't help you much.
You might try buying 1 new COP and swapping it into each of the four positions to see if the situation improves.
This is one of the areas where LS coils are better than COPs.
You might try buying 1 new COP and swapping it into each of the four positions to see if the situation improves.
This is one of the areas where LS coils are better than COPs.
#31
Interesting news: I got a set of new coils in today.
Installed them and reset the base timing, and I had to advance the timing via the CAS to get it to the static 10 degrees BTDC.
Everything seemed well, and I took it out for a test drive. No ping, COPS performed well, even through moderate heat.
Did have spark blowout at 10-12 PSI, though.
Its cooling down right now, but I will shorten the gap on the plugs to see if that will do the trick.
edit: well, ****. it appears BKR7E's are already gapped at .028. Can I get away with less gap?
Installed them and reset the base timing, and I had to advance the timing via the CAS to get it to the static 10 degrees BTDC.
Everything seemed well, and I took it out for a test drive. No ping, COPS performed well, even through moderate heat.
Did have spark blowout at 10-12 PSI, though.
Its cooling down right now, but I will shorten the gap on the plugs to see if that will do the trick.
edit: well, ****. it appears BKR7E's are already gapped at .028. Can I get away with less gap?
Last edited by mellowout; 04-05-2013 at 03:35 PM.
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