If there was a dxf readily available it would have made life easier. No need to be a smart arse

I found what i need on grab cad

https://grabcad.com/library/mazda-b6-coil-adapter

Necro-quote, but was this misfire without rhyme or reason?

I'm running in batch, but there's a big resistor thing in the harness. Been fighting a completely random misfire.

It had rhyme and reason, but solving it was suck. It only really did it when hot, so I'd have to drive it until things got hot and then sit on the side of the road swapping with a spare until it went away. Easy peasy.

What's the resistor for? I don't remember seeing that in any of the writeups.

Would it be ok to solder the 1Kohm resistor inside the igniter box between the blue and yellow/blue from one spade to the other? That would keep the resistor from becoming damaged and/or breaking.

Also, I got a set of resistors at Radio Shack, they say "1k ohm, 1/4watt carbon film resistor", is this the right one?

And, do I really need to add the 10000uf capacitor to the 12v and ground?

Thanks!

The oem pull up is in that white black wire. Have you built your ms yet? It'd be preferable to add it in that harness.

Cap is not needed

Would this work for less clutter? (Bad picture, but I would solder a resistor inside the igniter connecting Blue to Blue/yellow and then jump Blue yellow to black/white)

I have MSPNP1

What I dont understand is why that schematic shows the resistor bridging blue and yellow/blue, why not just place the resistor between the yellow/blue and white black instead?

Here is a better pic

Because the resistor is to provide a pull-up voltage for the ECU to read. The yellow/blue, and white/black should be connected together to connect the tach signal from the coils to the ECU wire.

I gutted the igniter, made a harness and soldered everything today, including the resistor. Not very pretty but it works! I used 12g wire for the 12v and ground signal and 18g wire for the rest.

Set my cranking dwell to 3.5ms and running dwell at 2.5ms and the car runs well. Thanks for all the help

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417997087

Mix up some epoxy or use electronics grade RTV and pot this lest the vibration break the resistor leads.

I was thinking about filling the entire thing with jb weld. Would it work?

Hot glue. Tape closed. Bolt back up. Forget.

Yeah, hot glue will work also, and is readily available. I would guess JB Weld is conductive.

I'll get clear loctite epoxy. I don't have a hot glue gun. Jb weld has iron I believe

Inter web search shows JB Weld iron particles to be small enough that that bulk material is non-conductive. Still, I would prefer another, unfilled material. If you had stress sensitive components, then a more flexible urethane would be the normal potting choice, but epoxies are used, as well as electronic RTV, and, as Scott pointed out, hot melts.

I just didn't want you to do nothing, but it sounds like you had planned to pot.

For the 1.6 ignitor, the circuit board is not reconnected?

Sorry if this is already in this thread but I've scanned over the 80+ pages of it and didn't see any mention relating.

Toyota COPs installed. Called DIY and they confirmed that my Megasquirt 1 has the capacitor built in. I did not install the resistor though but my tach works fine, sort-of.
Engine idles and cruises better than with OEM coils.
Problem is when it gets into boost above 6psi the engine shuts down and tach drops to null for a split second, like I turned the key off and back on real quick. Damn neck snapper. I can't get Tuner Studio to link up so no diag via software (whole other issue I'm working on).

Is this something that the resistor would help or yall have any other suggestions?
Thanks for any help fellas.

Are you running sequential ignition?
If so, revert back to wasted spark, your problems will go away.

Also, check charging voltage when the condition you describe happens. Does the voltage spike?

You might wanna log this event to verify.

Not running sequential. Check charging voltage? Can't log anything. No PC connect right now due to other issue.

I had the same thing happen when I first went out with my turbo. Logs showed it to be the overboost protection kicking in. My turbo is only set for 7.5psi and I had overboost setting at 150kPa with 10kPa hysteresis so it would hit peak boost then stop spark for 1/2 second while MAP dropped to 140kpa then back on til peak boost then stop for 1/2 second again etc.

Worth checking. I since set my overboost to 170kPa with a 1kPa hysteresis so I can turn up the boost to 10psi gradually.

Cheers
Stot