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35V rating at a minimum.
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LOL 12V. But the ignition systems can run alot more which I found out the hard way when I was a young boy holding onto a spark plug lead whilst my dad cranked the engine!
Thats why im concerned about the ignition system. The last thing I want is to melt wires because there to thin or get a cap blow up Thanks Reverant 35V min |
Good thing we dont have coils amplifying voltage throughout the rest of our electrical systems :giggle:
The cap is there to store energy. The larger the cap, the more energy you can store. Think about the large 2 farad caps you pu ton large stereo installs to prevent lights from dimming on bass drops. This is the same idea, the 10,00uF cap is storing a bit of energy between sparks so you always have full voltage at the coils for maximum spark. The voltage rating has to do with the amount of power you pump through it. You want a good fudge factor so the cap doesn't get too hot and explode. ~14v will be passing through it, if you got a cap rated at 12V, it's possible it will actually explode and fail. Not beause the coils operationg, but because the alternator was pushing more voltage through it than it could handle. |
Thanks for explaining Scott, I see what you mean. So as long as you get higher than the 14V then that should be fine. But the higher the better. So 35V will be fine.
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Originally Posted by ronniebiggs
(Post 740622)
Where do you get the 10,000 uF capacitors from? I cant locate them anywhere. Are they supposed to be 12V? I can find 18V 10,000 but thats about all.
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LOL. I started to read this thread then stopped somewhere round page 45. There are 8 suppliers on ebay from the uk. Most are 35V, some are 63V but described as high end audio caps.
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 740635)
35V rating at a minimum.
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Surges happen all the time. You want double the voltage rating of what your systems runs, and the next standard voltage after 2*14=28 is 35.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 740588)
The COPS were a little tight to get in, but a whack with the top of my hand seated them just fine. They actually feel secure enough that I don't feel a need to build a hold down plate quite yet.
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http://i3.squidoocdn.com/resize/squi...23619_fonz.jpg
...but in all seriousness, its a minor interference fit. "Whack" may be too strong of a word. Direct pressure is enough to seat them nice and snug, and they are not tight enough to warrant busting out a file to take care of right now. The more times I r&r these things the looser they get. I have no illusions that the situation is somewhat less than ideal. I will build some sort of hold-down apparatus in the near future, but it worked fine to get me to work and back today. |
I think I found why I cannot make my COPs works....
I have Diamond Toyota 90080-19025 COPs that look exactly like the Denso 90919-02244. They come from a Camry 1.8L 1998+ or Sienna 3.3L 2004+ ... ... these to cars are 24V cars...... So this might be the reason why they don't work ?! I've looked to my wiring many times and redid everything twice. Now, can someone tell me if I can make them work or not. Thank you |
90080-19015
90080-19023 are documented to work, 19025 doesn't seem like it would be any different. |
but does a COP from a 24V car will work in our 12V car?
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valve or volts?
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fuck I'm stupid, ... they are V6 cars, 24 valves, not 24 volts,
So then, I have no idea why they would'nt work on my car... Maybe the pin out is not the same as the other COP? I can't find anything |
i bet if you send one to Jason...
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2 Attachment(s)
is there a way to verify if the pinout is like this?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1314996077 pin 1 : ground pin 2 : trigger pin 3 : tach pin 4 : 12V this is exactly how I wired it https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1314996077 I don't know whats might be wrong. When I put them on the car and I try to start the car, it does crank but no spark |
I found this:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/5180459-post66.html
Originally Posted by http://forums.pelicanparts.com/5180459-post66.html;
Another option ... and update on my progress ...
I am forging ahead with Toyota COPs with built-in ignitors. Toyota #90919-02246 for 3MZFE engines (Kluger in Aus, Highlander in US and other models as well). Picture back in post #45. I now have 14 units to play with after picking up 8 for $9 each on fleabay. I have managed to get some more info from Toyota on their wiring diagram ... wire #1 - earth (12v-) wire #2 - ignition (12v+) wire #3 - 5v ignition signal wire #4 - signal back to ECU to confirm firing (not necessary to use) Before I was aware that they only use a 5V signal, I tested them at 12V (post #97 in thread "using a coil pack ignition"). Luckily, it doesn't seem to have done them any harm. I will be using MS-II or new MS-3 as a controller. The COPs fit nicely into 964 valve covers as far as length is concerned. I need to source a slightly larger soft rubber seal for a gap-free fit. Planning to slice some a/c pipe insulation into rings about 1/4" thick for this. The lower coils also need to be fixed in place so I will make up a set of retainers that use rocker cover studs or the existing mounting points for the original spark plug lead clips. I'll probably do the same on the top coils just to be safe. |
Ok, I just individualy tested a single COP and it work with the pinout that everybody use.
I think I'll have to look at what's coming out of the megasquirt |
Ok, I've read this whole tread "I think". I have my COP's (part #19015), with pig tails, weather resistant plugs 4pin but look like little trailer plugs but they'll do, and can solder pretty well. I'm looking in wiring them 2by2. As in two COP's per wire harnes to each OEM coil connector and reverse the plugs on each harness to avoid plugging them in backwards on accident. I'm looking in the capacitors. 35v but running 4 caps with one on each pigtail as close to the COP as possible, the idea is thats where the voltage drop is. But do I need 10000uf for each or can I try ruffly 5000uf for each since it doesn't need to supply all 4 COP's. Bigger capacitors are well bigger and would like to hide the capacitor in the harness. Also who has blown up a 25v? thinking of downsizing the voltage to minimize cap size.
EDIT: This is basically what I'm looking at |
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