That sounds easy as well. What's your price shipped to 48393?

Well just the connectors are $9 each my cost from Toyota. Th harness is of a used engine I installed that had 20k on it. So I'd sell the whole harness for that price which would be 50.95 with shipping.

Anyone near Chicago need a set of COPs? I have an extra set kicking around. email me lazzer408 @ yahoo.com

I already have the connectors themselves. I just need to whatever little piece that goes into the connector itself with the wire and need to find that part number. No way 4 of those total will be more than $50 so I don't really think that's going to work for me.

if you are pulling and cutting the connectors off of a harness then they wont have a part number. There are places online you can buy just the connectors though. I learned that on this forum actually. search around youll find it.

if you are asking what part number my coils are.... 90080 19015

they are on the first post of this thread...

Again, I already have the connectors that plug into the coils. My plugs have 3 wires coming out of them, not the 4 required for a 94-95. Is there any way to buy the little pieces that go into the connector to add the additional wire? Maybe it's called the "terminal" from the saved COP post?

I'd put a picture up but there's stored away somewhere and I haven't really began looking for them since I moved recently.

Edit: Found a pic. I just need the little white terminals for each plug (4 total).

it would be easier to build the tachout circuit in the MS.

I bought one you built within the last couple months. If you can explain what I would need to do in decent detail I could probably do that. Otherwise, I wouldn't know what to do well enough and would have to do the harness deal.

COPs are in and she runs great! Connectors with pigtails I purchased from Ballenger Motorsports as listed previously in this thread and in the FAQ. As you can see, the BM connectors are white and ALL the wires in the pigtails are black. It can get confusing during assembly, but that's why I have a Fluke DMM with continuity tester. I could not find coils locally so I bought from Splitime in the FS section. I can post the Toyota PN later if anyone is interested. Capacitor is a 10,000uf 25v model from Frys Electronics. I threw some 1" loom around it and there was still about 1/4" of gap at the split. I have a far smaller 16v but I couldn't find it at the time. I'm not running the dwell reducer circuit at this point because I don't feel I have the skills to build one. Anyone want to sell me one?

Attachment 241019
The car is a CA Emissions spec NB1 with factory ECU (for now) so sucks on whoever said these things will not run with a CA spec ECU. Valve cover is unmodified. The COPS were a little tight to get in, but a whack with the top of my hand seated them just fine. They actually feel secure enough that I don't feel a need to build a hold down plate quite yet. I built the harness with a 6 position weatherpack connector that Splitime included with his kit of parts. I need to add a ring terminal for my additional block ground, but it seems to work fine without it for now.

Attachment 241020
Another 6pin weatherpack on the factory coil connectors so I can swap back if the need arises.

Big time +1 to all the folks who helped develop and explain this so n00bs like me could figure it out. It's great to have a cheap alternative to the FAILBOAT 99/00 factory coils.

Time to add COPs to my signature and open up the gaps on them plugs!

why does everyone point them forward?

And why does everyone add the cap and the additional ground? I've installed 7 kits so far, no cap or extra ground, yet all setups work great?!?!

They go faster that way? :ugh2: It made it easier to remove the connectors while test fitting. Hivemind seems to like the cap and it came with the bag-o-parts I got from Splitime, so why not use it?

I can point them the other way if it makes :brain: happy :giggle:

Where do you get the 10,000 uF capacitors from? I cant locate them anywhere. Are they supposed to be 12V? I can find 18V 10,000 but thats about all.

I'd say get 18V at a minimum.

What would be the optimum Voltage to get. I just assumed you had to get 12V due to the 12V system of the car ?

63V like this onehttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BHC-Aerovox-10...item3f03af25a7

Or 35V like this which isnt audio
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Radial-Electro...item562c5c76f0

a voltage rating high enough that doesnt cause the cap to explode.

the voltage rating of a cap is the maximum voltage you want to expose it to.

Ok so what is the maximum voltage you would expose the capacitor to? I assume you just need a capacitor that will take slightly more voltage than this maximum limit.

what voltage does your car run at? :)