So while it was on my mind, I said F-It, that ignitor is getting opened. Here's a how-to w/ pics

Step 1:
Flip ignitor over, top side down. Drill 2 small holes near edge. Holes look like a big spider bite.

2:
Insert small pliers (I used a surgical hemostat) into holes and clamp. Slowly pull metal bottom plate away from the plastic body. It is simply siliconed in place and will come free.

3:
Carefully break the solder joints between the terminal pins and circuit board.

Now it's just a matter of soldering on the wires that go to the COPs, drilling a hole so they can stick out a side of the plastic (former) ignitor body. When it's reassembled I'll fill it with epoxy which will seal up the two holes I drilled, plus will seal around the wires coming out. Done.

B

Were you keeping track of your miliage before you converted? Some were interested to see if others have seen an mpg improvement.

well my last drive home from fredericksburg to blacksburg netted me only 19mpg, but thats because something was seriously fucking up on my car. Really bad bogging, car would not hot start at the rest stop (shouldnt have stopped :( ). I replaced the ign setup with the COPs. I can not reproduce the bogging at all for any length of time or amount of hard driving. I haven't monitored the mpg from the beginning of a full tank yet, I'll do that the next time I refill. I put the COPs in in the middle of a tank. In blacksburg you don't have to drive very far in any direction to get to where you need to go so a tank lasts me over a week usually. I'll be driving to roanoke to the machine shop tomorrow though so that will put some more miles on it, i'll update then.

Don't forget you can open the plug gap. I'm around .035-.040 boosted. Hot spark! =)

I'm running stock plugs right now anyway, the motor in the car atm isnt boosted. The upcoming one will be though :)

SOL General
y8s
TurboTim
cjernigan
firedog25
#6 = ???

I'd suggest re-posting this in the GB section to get that last dood.

Matt

Gb?

Can you wait for me to test the coils, and compare them against the '01 and '00 coils so I can make my decision? If they're stronger than the factory coils, I'll get em.

lazzer, GB = "group buy"

jason when are you testing? did Tom drop ship the coil to you yet?

He's testing dwell curve and output I think. The dwell curve is going to be a nice addition to this thread.

Me! Me! Me!

Ah crap, you don't log on fror a weekend and I nearly miss out :vash:

Would you be interested in sending them south? Wayyyyyyy south? :bigtu:

chill out amps nothing hapening yet, it does show you should come around more though ;)

Um... shipping can get up there in price. Do you have a shortage of Toyotas down under? Give me your address I'll get a ups quote.

"Poverty Racer" <--- lol I like that

Every junk yard owner here wants rape me with their price :eek5:
Any parts for such recent cars (except hyundais) demands premium $$.

After scouring 6 yards over the last month only 2 had recent ZZ model coils.
The cheapest wanted $275 a set!!! :gtfo:

I figured it would be cheaper to get them from abroad.

Oh and I was wayyyyyyyy busy this weekend. Too busy driving :bigtu:

Ampz-paid.
y8s-paid
TurboTim-paid

Payment required from:
SOL general
cjerigan
firedog25

Shipping in the usa shouldn't be more then $10 usps so the rest of you ordering the coils send $70 to Lazzer408@yahoo.com via. Paypal.

When all 6 sets are paid I'll place the order and get them out asap.

Thanks.

should have a set of these mounted on my friend's NB this next week. I'll post pics as we are going the epoxy and weather pack route.

$70 sent.

I have mine, just need a head to put them in :gay:

Be sending mine later this week.

so what are we getting here for 70$ a set of COP wired up to work for us?

Those of us who live in California have to un-modify our cars every two years for the ARB's state-sanctioned protological certification and eye exam. Being able to plug straight into the factory wiring makes it easier and quicker to remove and reinstall.

Neat trick. Although in my case, the bottom of the ignitor was held on not with silicone, but with a very hard cement, almost like JB-weld, but white. It was surprisingly difficult to prise free.

I used a bandsaw to slice the back edge off (the side furthest from the connector) and then took the plate off wth heavy needle-nose pliers. It bent the metal somewhat, causing the circuit board to shatter. By the way- when you're prying that circuit board off the plate be very careful- it seems to be made of porcelin or glass, and I cut my thumb on one of the shards. Wouldn't have been so bad had my hands not been covered in brake cleaner from trying to remove that horrible clear goo.

Although in my case, the bottom of the ignitor was held on not with silicone, but with a very hard cement, almost like JB-weld, but white. It was surprisingly difficult to prise free.

odd. the glue in mind was nasty, snot-like in consitensy. Like rubber cement that didn't harden, but a lot stronger. My pcb board is very happily sealed to the metal plate. I have been unable to pry it free, and it's neither budged nor broken.

My ignitor is part # J702T-0706. I remember that the one on the car now has a different part # on it after the -. Perhaps a different sealant was used on the different runs. :dunno:

I would wired up the COPs and given it a go (minus hold down bracketry) Sunday, but I couldn't find my fine duty soldering gun. Oh, and I didn't pick up any pins to make coil plugs anyway.

I thought the GB was just for a set of 4 COPs.

Ok, so I filled up before I drove to the machine shop in roanoke this morning. The round trip totalled almost exactly 90 miles for me with a nice 5 mile 500+foot mountain climb near the end. My fuel gauge is just at the very first tick after that. So it looks like I'm on the way to at least 300miles to this tank. Pretty good considering I was at only 200 last tank with highway driving.

Mine had the clear snot inside as well, which I assume is a moisture-barrier to protect the PCB. However the metal lid was held in place will a very stout cement. I actually bent the metal plate considerably while getting it off and had to hammer it flat again.

I gave up trying to find those and simply soldered wires directly to the coil pins. I used a dremel with a fine carbide cutter to burnish the pins first, soldered wires to the pins, then mounted the coils in a vise and poured 2-part epoxy into the shell, and embedded the end of some 1/4" split-loom over the wires into the epoxy. I'll have to take a picture, it looks surprisingly good for a total hack-job.

http://cableorganizer.com/wire-loom/wire-loom-tees.htm

These things are great for making cleen looking splitloom harnesses.

the clear snot is nasty dude...mine lifted off with only one drill hole however...

70 sent

EDIT: Oops, something isn't working for me lazzer i might have to flakeout on this one.

Anyone that wants to take my place, feel free.

so it would need a cas signal, so it wouldn't work on a 99 and newer?

I'm running megasquirt on my '99 using a '97 CAS which is super easy to install. Megasquirt uses the CAS signal and will fire the COPs in my situation in batch form.

Maybe there is someway to filter the crank sensor on the front of the motor into a different signal so that the COPS could be fired that way. That would be quite an ordeal though. I think Arga experimented with that using MSII as well.

What engine management do you want to use?

Wtf, do you have me on ignore? I repeatedly asked to be added to the list.

Also, does this include wires or just plugs? If not wires, what are the rest of you guys doing?

I don't like the idea of soldering wires up to the connectors. Too much opportunity for a short.

Not if you shrinkwrap the soldered wires up.

I'll be using .110 shielded crimp connectors from radioshack... have to buy 8 packs of the pack of 10 to get 2 of the .110 per pack.... but its sheiled and they just just fit.

Of you mean those little spade clips? Those might actually work on the toyota coil plug prongs.

They do work, they squeeze in super tight if you use the fully shielded. Otherwise the unshielded might work, just remember to shrink wrap those.

Ok... 2 or 3 of the fully shielded radioshack ones can fit side by side.... but its super tight. I think i'll run 2 shielded and 2 non in there... and shrinkwrap the non shielded ones.

I just got ahold of some coils then and I will be good to go.

we we're talking about getting sequential firing for the COPS using the EMU, it does seem feasible but i guess would need a CAS signal, i do have a cas laying around from a 97? i think, i guess with some creative wiring it could all be made to work

Sorry I didn't catch it. Did you PM me? I have AIM and Yahoo too. cjernigan offered someone to have his. In that case I'll put you down in his place.

Ampz-paid.
y8s-paid
TurboTim-paid

Payment required from:
SOL general
beerslurpy
firedog25

Shipping in the usa shouldn't be more then $10 usps so the rest of you ordering the coils send $70 to Lazzer408@yahoo.com via. Paypal.

When all 6 sets are paid I'll place the order and get them out asap.

Thanks.

edit - I'd like to get these sets ordered by Thursday Aug. 9th.

Thanks man.

I need to bookmark the page with the wiring diagram. I can never remember the colors.

Hey, what do you do with the "RPM" wire from the coils? Just tie it off to ground? I thought the Link got RPM from the CAS, same as the stock ecu.

what year? I refer to this as the tach wire. I explained to tie them all together and connect to the tach signal wire in the mazda harness. see schematics posted.

97 with an obiwan link

'97 has a single tach wire in the miata harness. it's split into 2 wires, one wire to each tach output on the oem coils. connect all 4 cop tach leads to this wire as shown in the schematic.

Oh wait duh, thats what the 3rd wire on the coilpack is.

1 Power
2 Signal/Ground
3 Tach

Correct?

Are your coils on top of the valve cover? If it's a 3 wire there is no tach. I don't have the colors for that but the 3 would be power, ground, and trigger.

Ben send me the link to the '97 schematic. I dont have time to look for it this second.

update for aug 7th

Since we run wasted spark 1/3 2/4 why not just figure out a way to shoot on the individual coil alternating for every firing order i am sure there is the ability for this some where it would mean running a few more lines though i think.

wtf indeed. didn't someone post that same statement in another of lazzer's threads on miata.net? heh

Oh btw, you can get narrower spade connectors. probably fully insulated. just gotta search digikey. they're called quick disconnects or terminals.

Got the coils epoxied last night and test-fit everything for lengths. One thing surprised me... Up until now I'd only test-fitted a coil into the #4 hole, and it was fine. But to make them fit into the #1-#3 holes, I had to grind down a pair of rings cast into the body of each coil as per the illustration below. Have others had this experience as well?


http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/7583/coilhr4.jpg

Mine don't have those rings. Just as my connector isn't 180deg away from the bolt down area.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...e/e8382aa0.jpg

I just got the coils from brgracer.
Pls. verify that the pin out is as posts 175 and 178.

Since I got 4, I"ll test them all out for health. Give me a few days to test 'em against the other coils I have.

No, I think we're running 1/4 2/3, at least that is what the coil pack and wires on my table says to me.

I really wish I was an electrical engineer instead of a programmer so I could make a little black box to convert the wasted spark to full sequential.

I don't think it would be tough since these cops have built in ignitors. I would attempt, but Joe Perez is much better qualified.

You could use a flip-flop IC as long as you had a reset pulse from another sensor. The Miata CAS has a 4 tooth and 1 tooth wheel with an output from each. The single tooth output could be used for reset. I wish I had the time to work on it but right now I don't.

SOL general... Were waiting on you. If you can't make the deadline on Thursday then let someone else take your place. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to offer this deal again soon but for now I only have 24 coils to distribute.

I went to the junkyard today and looked at every Toyota they had. Nothing new. But... With a little widdling you could probably make one of the other connectors work. It was either the wasted spark coil connector for the wired coils or the airflow meter. I don't remember which it was. The pin spacing/size was the same but the outer plastic part of the plug won't clip on the COP coils. Anyone want a go at trying to make it work? I'm sure you could rtv/glue it in.

beerslurpy - payment recieved.

update aug 7th

hey can someone take a good quality close-up of both the coil-side connector and anyone who has the real mating connector take one of that and any writing on it?

I'll do some lookin too.

Brian was supossed to for me....

I tried, just my camera sucks too bad (Christams gift from family, GF destroyed my good camera in an auto accident). But if you look through this thread, I gave some measurements at least...