so does the stock NA ECU.

Right so that would be a problem which is why i'm trying to find a workaround.

there are plenty of people running them at the dwell without issue, and if you needed to for a week or so, that wouldn't be a be deal.

Just thought I would put this here: 01 Miata COP solution. Honda K20A coils and they have built in igniters. This is all the information I have been able to find so far.

Pics: Post #49
JR-COZY 1990 FORD Laser TX3 from New Zealand. 315KW @ 29psi! - Page 4

How much power do they produce?

no idea about that but this thread looks promising:
K20a Ignition Coils information needed. - Honda-Tech

So many k20a coils and not a single result giving an output? Da fuq is this shit?

My workaround is to carry a 5th coil in the jack well.

If you aren't in a hurry for an answer, I can put a note in my calendar for 2015 to let you know how it is going.

Thats the thing, odds are more than 1 coil will be damaged.

Why more than one? I'm no quality guru, but I think it all comes down to MTBF, and there is almost always some scatter.

I would agree that if one failed, I would immediately get another spare and if another failed in short order I would replace the rest of the set. But I don't think there is anything that would cause cops to fail like dominos. They all see the same dwell, they all see the same voltage. One dropping out shouldn't stress the others significantly.

To draw a parallel using Miata parts, I know plenty of people that have taken the good half of two coilpacks and put them together without issue.

Because you're overpowering all of them together with the excessive dwell and since all of them are made to spec i'd assume all of them should burn out fairly close timing of eachother due to the extra dwell.

Am I throwing money away if I buy the Trackspeed kit?

Trackspeed Engineering

I really don't feel like piecing together everything separately... Maybe I'm just being lazy, I dont know lol... $300 dosen't seem too bad for a PNP set-up with the bracket and everything

Well, its about $40 for all the wring, about $100 for the cops, free-$50 to make the bracket. But if you don't have the proper crimp tool for the wiring connectors add another $100 to $250 onto that depending on how nice of a crimp tool you want to buy. Of course, then you end up with a high quality crimp tool which will make you fear no automotive wiring job in the future.

I have a soldering iron and would probably just do that lol .... I also have a wiring harness lying around from an old totaled fleet vehicle here at work. Hmmm So I would probably just buy the Trackspeed bracket because I dont have any easy way to DIY that. What vehicle's are people using the COP's from? Are all Toyota COP's the same?

Made my cops for under 100 bucks. You dont need a magical 200$ crimping tool.

Yes you do, solder is not allowed here, nor are hardware store crimp terminals.

Ohhh interesting. Info on where to purchase this Magical crimp tool and special wiring connectors?

The required parts are posted in this thread. Take your pick or crimpers that work with sumitomo terminals, you can get by with a cheaper crimp tool that doesnt ratchet, but even doing the 20 or so terminals for this harness you'll wish you bought a ratcheting one.

You mean you are only going to spoon feed me 1/2 of the answers?!?! :rofl: I'll take what I can get haha Thanks

Just enough to give you a taste and keep you cumming back.

wait, I'm missing something...no solder for the wiring harness? Is there some impedance that shouldn't be present if using solder

Its a brittle joint on top of a vibrating engine, a recipe for failure.

In theory, yes.

In practice, a well fixtured soldered joint ... even on a BP ... should hold up on 98% of the cars on this board. At least I hope so since I soldered mine :party:

-Zach

define: here.

The whole site, you cannot solder your MS together, electrical connections on circuit boards must be made with Joe's semen.






Seriously, I mean here as in the cop harness.

If you are seriously considering spending $300 on the TSE COP kit I would highly suggest you go with an LS coil setup instead. Bracket and spark plug wires are $200 from FM, coils go for about $100 on ebay with all the wiring you need.

and why can't you crimp the pins with a needle nose and then solder them as well?

Really? I can't find it on FM's page without the coils. With the coils they're $700+.

I just got the bracket from them. I think it was around $40 or so. Just call them. As they say on their website: They sell you any single item from any of their kits.

Yeah I was looking early and couldn't find it either

And then you can order the wires from magnacore for like $250 shipped, at least for the VVT fitment.

I found the FM part numbers, but not the prices:

26-04320 LS Coil Bracket, 1994-05 will only work with Hydras*
26-04075 Magnecor Sequential LS coil 8. 1994-00 5mm wire set For 94-00 Hydra equipped cars (45491)

FM's LSx coil kit doesn't fit with the EGR pipe. Unclear if it fits with a coolant reroute or not.

--Ian

Hmm how does it get in the way of the EGR?

This is the way i am installing my coils, i think that they would fit on a VVT motor but have not fit tested it yet, i designed the bracket and have the DXF file if any one wants it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380064485
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7c65f42d.jpg

The VVT pipe might be in the way, so you might have to offset the coils so that they dont interfere, or raise it up.

That actually came out really nice. Are you willing to make more mounts?

I can make some more if there is interest in them, i paid $25 for the 316 stainless steel one.

What's the cost to me? It looks nice.

I'd absolutely be down for one.

I will make a batch and sell it at my cost plus shipping if we have 5 or more takers, it will be done whenever i have something else being cut so so i don't have to make a special trip, and it will be 2 -3 weeks to have them ready.
PM me if you are interested and i will start a list.

I called and talked to Brandon and ordered the parts over the phone.


I have a begi spacer, kia water neck, and GM coolant hose and it fits with my FM bracket. It is a tight fit with the coolant temp sensor, but doable. I do not have EGR so I have no clue on that one

I don't know, but that's what it says on FM's web site.

--Ian

BEGI says the EGR tube won't fit with their reroute. They even offer a service to modify your EGR tube to fit.

The stock 99 EGR pipe fits with an M-tuned reroute, I've done it. It's tight, though.

Given that the EGR pipe is below the reroute, if the FM LSx coils don't fit with EGR, I'm not sure how they'd fit with the reroute. I guess it's possible that the EGR/coil interference is over on the side where the EGR mates with the intake manifold.

--Ian

I built my COP set up using Toyota coils. It worked well but one day while loading an MSQ into my LS1 two of the coils took a dump.

I replaced the 2 bad coils but the tach did not work after that.

I now have an MS3. Is the MS3 different in how the tach signal is obtained ?

How can I test the coils individually to determine the damaged ones so I don't have to buy all new ones again ? :vash:

Thanks

Believe it or not I am now getting to this.

Expect mo questions possibly stupid ones.. :hs:

I have continuity between the first terminal (ground) and the 3rd terminal from the left on one of the coils.

I built these using small female connectors to mate with the coil terminals.

One of these was actually broken - the metal must have bent on insertion and then fractured. I don't think that was the tach issue but definitile a failure point.

Now I need another new coil and re engineer my terminal connections :hsugh:

Just a data point - my car ran (genuine used Toyota) COPs fine with the stock 99 ECU for about 500km of street use then developed an occasional miss. I've now switched to an Adaptronic and I am running the correct dwell but the miss persists. I haven't yet swapped out the coils but I suspect they are the issue.

All the crimps on the COP loom look secure.

Seems like those coils can be "partially" wonked like mine. One works but tach signal is shorted to ground :sad2:

I might just stick with stock ignition since I don't run much boost...

So 350z coils work like a charm, just did my initial wiring and it runs awesome

heres a pic for fun
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1382723317
I need to take them off, and clean it up now :/

They look a bit long.

they are a tad, ill make a tie down piece

something your GF never said.

Im glad you changed they to it...because that would be weird

The hood holds them in place as it closes :giggle:

Im not one to complain about free coils, thanks to my local scrapyard, who saw no value in these, or any other small automotive components :D

Coils and teeth have no value to them LOL

My Fleabay coil just came in

lol yea and other random bones found...

I guess this is a stupid question but I'm installing an aftermarket tach in my 94 miata with the toyota coils already installed. Do I just tap into the tach wire (black/white) in the original harness?