Here's a fun fact for ya. Apparently the Hydra won't fire COP's run in wasted spark. I was pulling my hair out in the garage and called Trackspeed for any ideas. He can correct me if I mis-quote him. Long story short the Hydra can fire 1 coil for 2 cyl or sequential fired. For some reason it doesn't want to fire 2 coils for 2 cyl. I could fire the coils manually but the coils wouldn't fire during the starting. I've given up, ordered more weatherpacks, and trying to figure out how I want to wire it all up this time. On that note,

Any issues with wiring the ground wires to the block? or any other place good? Just trying to limit the rats nest. So this is the idea. Factory coil plugs go to Cyl 1&2, then pin off the Hydra for cyl 3&4 for +12&trigger and make the ground go to the block(unless there is a better spot for a ground location). Then click the sequential ignition button in the hydra and hope nothing explodes.:crx:

A mount Pop made for a friends ITA car.

https://sites.google.com/site/wizzer...s/IMG_0056.JPG

More pics here.
https://sites.google.com/site/wizzermotorsports/parts

nice ;)

Im happy people are still kinda chatting on this thread, Because I have a question i cannot find an answer to in all 76 thorough pages of awesomeness...

I have an early 95 with 4 wire coils... I have 2 dead coils im gonna hack up, wire/solder/epoxy to make pnp harnesses... It woul seem most people only pull the trigger wire from which ever side they arent getting power ground tach from? It would seem "smarter" to ALL the wires from both harnesses, no? power,gnd,tach,trigger for 1-4, as thats what the factory coil does, and power, gnd, tach, trigger for 2,3 with the oppisite connector...

Does anyone see a problem with this? I fully understand its a bit more work... but i think the end result would be cleaner power using 16ga wiring (thats the factory size of the toyota pigtails atleast)... Im i missing something? Is there not a tach signal in both harnesses? you guys are MUCH better than me with this stuff... I just figured it would be a more stable setup, and be a little more akin to a factory setup... Kindly prove me wrong!

NM! refered to a wiring diagram, and i see that the two harnesses come from 1 pwr wire anyway, and the gnd come from the rear engine chassis gnd... Can one of yall just confirm im retarded?

there should be a power/gnd/trigger/tach in each connector right?

just connector together the power, ground, and tach wires on your side of the wiring, but there should remain 2 trigger wires; 1 for each batch of coils.

Finished the cops setup in my NA8 today, I modified the exising loom to make them plug and play.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-htSa...ature=youtu.be

Looks clean. But I am missing a very important part....
Looks a bit like this:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326277509

It's in the works, don't worry. lol

I redid my COP setup the other day.
For some weird reason, my initial attempts to include a capacitor in the circuit had resulted in blown fuses, so I had just opted to leave the cap out.
This time around, I properly charged the cap and installed it with the new wiring and the improved grounds.
Makes a very, very visible difference from the get go. Idle AFR values are about .7 points or so leaner now.. Same with cruise.
Unreal stuff.
Next, I will install two dozen caps for ultimate fuel economy...

More caps=more awesome
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329029968

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-COROL...item4843eceb2c

2 left, 4 pigtails + 4 COPs for ~$80 shipped.

Delete when done. Figured someone else would want these.

I just finished my cops harness project. It looks good and all but.. I forgot to slice ground wire to head grounding. Now it grounds only to cars oem harness. Shieet, does it work without it? I have '93 1.6

Maybe you guys can help with this..

I blew two coils on my COP set up about a year ago while trying to burn anMSQ into my Megasquirt.

Recently I purchased two toyota coils from Fleabay and replaced the bad coils but the tach does not work. Other than that the motor runs great with the COP set-up.

Does the tach need al the COPs to drive it ?

Any idaes what could be wrong and how I can fix it ?


Thanks

So, about to throw in COPs. Any big dos or don'ts guys?

do you have IG- and b+ jumped with a 1K resistor in the diagnositics connector?

and if yes, check to see if you have continuity between ground and IG-, if you do, unplug each coil until it goes away. When it/if it does, that coil has a bad tach output.

Thanks man!!!

Yes, I have the 1k ohm resistor and the caps too. It all worked fine before.:vash:

You mean unplug each coil until the tach comes back to identify the bad coil ?

i guess you could do that too. if one is bad, the ig- wire will be grounded (when it shouldnt be)

Hey guys,

I've been following this thread and I found some Toyota Echo 1.5L COP 90919-02240. I followed all the wiring instructions including installing a 1k (1/4 watt) resistor in the +B and -IG and 10,000 uF Capacitor between +12V and ground.

Car fired up first try, idles great and cruises great but I'm getting what seems to be spark blow out on high rpm and boost. The plugs are still gapped at 0.026 (ran fine before with the stock 1.6 coil pack). Another problem is the tach isn't working at all.

I tried the "continuity test" Braineack suggested and everything was fine.
I strongly believe the 1.5L Toyota Echo COP aren't as suitable as the 1.8L Toyota COP.

Can anyone confirm this for me?

check the coils, how many pins on the 3 or 4?

gap them back up to .040"

There are four pins.
When the coil over plug is facing you, the wires from left to right are:
White/Black stripe, Green/Red stripe, solid yellow, Black/Red stripe.

I just gapped them about half an hour ago back to 0.040 idle is the same, cruising is good but high rpm and boost seems like a series of misfires.

Plugs I'm running are NGK Platinums ran fine a week ago with the 1.6 coil pack. I'm willing to purchase some new Spark Plugs just to see if that's the problem.

I'm also running MSPNP 9093, I've changed the Cranking Dwell to 3.5ms and the Running Dwell to 2.5ms, as noted in the instructions.

I'm planning on going to the bone yard tomorrow to find some 1.8L Toyota COP.
I'll post the results up here just for anyone else that may have this problem.

I'm having to replace my third bad COP after 5 years. Is anyone else running a Link ECU burning COPs up? The bad COPs will still idle and drive but they miss hard at WOT.

I found some 1.8L Toyota Celica COP rather than using the 1.5L Toyota Echo COP and I still can't get an RPM signal.

I measured the volts at the Instrument cluster for the (Yellow/Blue Stripe) Tachometer Wire that comes from the igniter to be 0.012 Volts. I also measured at the igniter (Yellow/Blue Stripe) to be 0.012 volts, so the signal is making it to the cluster but I believe its too weak. The stock 1.6 coil pack produces 0.700 volts at the instrument cluster Yellow/Blue Stripe.

I've followed all the steps and for some reason I cant get the tach to work.
Any suggestions/tests or alternatives to get this tach working?

Engine runs fine on 1.6 Coil Pack.

Swap over to COPs. Change dwell settings to FAQ settings.

No spark.

I followed the harness diagram as per the FAQ perfectly, and continuity testing verifies this. A COP left out with a plug inserted reveals no spark whatsoever.

What do, MT.net gods?

These 90080 19019 seem pretty easy to get in the UK, will they work?

Is it 4 pin? If so, it should be fine.

With the Toyota COPs, do I need to use a capacitor if my Megasquirt is running them?

There is some debate as to if the capacitor is required or not. Some people use it with no issues, others don't use it and also have no issues. I used it in mine because it was readily available and I like what it does. YMMV.

Thanks mate. Does the capacitor have to be placed close to the coils or would it be ok to have it abuot 5ft away?

Another thing I was wondering about is, can I simply not use the tacho wires from the coils if I just use the Tacho output of my Megasquirt? Which I understand uses the CAS for RPM.

I came across a set of 2008 corolla COPs and started ordering the rest of the stuff needed to build these for my 95 today. My question is, since I havent taken the stock coil pack out yet, but the wires listed on the schematics, are those before or after the connectors going to the stock miata coils? Also, where exactly is the capacitor going? Since there are two connectors on the coil pack am I using the capacitor to tie together the second 12V and ground?

BUMP for this

im running a 91 w/mspnp is the capacitor even necessary

it goes between power and ground.


no.

thanks for responding brain :brain:. i did dig through this monster of a post and find that a few pages back you mentioned the 90-93 have a cap already

COP resistance?
 

I've got two 90080-19023 and two 90919-02244 coils, and I believe it will be OK to use these together, can anyone confirm?

My main concern: One of the 90080-19023 coils is showing significantly lower resistance between the +12V and GND pins - ~24kOhms vs ~35kOhmns for the other 3 coils. Should I be concerned? Is this a potentially bad, or soon-to-be-bad coil?

Found a fancy COP set on eBay to the tune of almost $800 if anybody is insane...
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/OKADA-Plasma-...item27c7f20fd7

Is there way to check bad COP? I have occasional misfire in idle. RPM drops to around 600 and exhaust start banging due to unburned fuel. Had to be just one coil otherwise engine doesn’t run. Now I just have to find which coil...

Yes. Keep car running. Unhook each one, idle should change with each one you pull (engine will not run right). The one that you pull that does not change how the engine is running....is the bad one.

That won't help you diagnose an "occasional misfire". I don't know the right answer, but that isn't it.

Your afr logs should tell you whether it is injector or coil related..

Buy one good coil, place it in each cyl till there is no missfire.

So I just bought some coils, and connectors, including the 6 pin sumimoto connector on the head for the ignition harness, and I bought 5 feet of 16 conductor wire from grainger (200*F rating on temp should be good enough and petroleum resistant). It's going to get wired up for wasted spark for now and when my stuff comes from TSE get switched to sequential.

Picked up a set off a forum member a couple weeks ago. Fabbed a mounting plate at work. Excited about the upgrade!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341351817

It's been a while, but I swear I have read 95% of this thread. Here is the longish question. I have a set of COPs wired for wasted spark. Not going to use them on the turbo car. Went LS coils due to VVT swap. Can my '97 factory motor run these if wired for wasted spark as the original stuff is? Will I need a dwell reducer and where do I buy/find diagrams? I can wire a bit, but circuits are my weakness. I would like to throw them on the '97 since I have the beacket, COPs, wiring and all.

In for more info. Who sells the brackets?

Looks good!

Pretty sure Trackspeed sells a bracket. You can also make your own with aluminum bar stock and some nuts & bolts, all available at HD/Lowe's.

Cut the blank bracket at work and pressed some studs into it to hold the COP's down with a lock nut on top.

Like mentioned above, Trackspeed makes the bracket for $45 I think. Thought I would save the money for my efforts.

I can confirm 100% that this is the 6 pin sumimoto connector. Now to find the Pin out of it.

Had to make my own pinout. 1 is blue 2 is black/ground which is convoluted wiring 3 is brown 4 is empty 5 is brown w/yellow 6 is black w/white. and the pins are numbered when looking into the connector orange facing you with the clip up such that:
123
654

And now I bought the wrong series of connector for the coils, so I ordered the correct ones, a better crimper, a GM iat for the up coming stand alone conversion, and a bunch of good heat shrink. I've also got to break my no soldering/spade connectors on this car promise because I'll have to reduce all the double/quadruple wires to singles to work in the 6 pin ignition harness connector.

I installed cops almost 2 years ago and no issues to speak of whatsoever, well cop related that is. About a year ago I installed a diypnp before going turbo and havn't had a working tach since. Well, the tach moves but not correctly and falls to 0 under hard acceleration. I always figured I jacked something up with the MS but after some time pulling my hair out trying to fix it I told myself if that was my only problem after going full standalone then I came out ahead. (Had never done anything like that, had to teach myself to solder lol) When tuning I have my laptop so TS shows my tach, and driving around I know the engine enough that I can go by sound so it didn't bother me and haven't given it any thought since.

Recently I was thinking about the tach not working and it dawned on me its probably the cops setup itself. I remembered reading about the caps and resistors when I built my setup but determined I didn't need them and the tach worked fine after installing the cops on the stock ecu. I didn't think there was anything wrong with the cop setup when I installed my MS.

I skimmed over the thread again tonight and if I'm understand this the only reason I havn't had a working tach for a year now is because I don't have one effing 1k resistor? :crx: Does this sound like this could be my problem?

Nope.

Well I'm both disappointed that wouldn't fix it and also relieved it wasn't something that simple I overlooked ha ha. Oh well, this is a discussion for a different thread and time. Continue on with miata COPedness

Just a quick bump to thank everyone in this thread. I've been having a misfire issue and couldn't run more than 10psi without the car falling on its face. I got fed up and decided to do something about it. Since i have a 1990 w/ mspnp that doesnt have an ECU tach output, i opted for the COPS over lsx ignition since they have a tach signal.

Anyways built the harness one day after work here, finally got around to wiring these in today. Misfires completely gone, idles better, motor feels smoother, awesome! I was able to turn up the boost as well, and was playing with 13psi tonight and it feels GOOD. Tomorrow i'm going to a dyno day and will get on the rollers to see what it does, might make it by the drag strip as well for some fun.

hoping for over 200whp. anyways just wanted to let everyone know these are worth the effort, i should have done this years ago.

UPDATE from my previous post. Dynod 242whp/230ftlbs. Will make an updated post in the dyno area once i get the email including the dyno sheet.

w00t

Much thanks to your HUGE help with my timing map of course.

ebay cops
 

Have anyone used these cops before?
99 08 Toyota Corolla Celica Ignition Coil Set of 4 New | eBay

Or am I better off buying used original toyota cops?

They are life time warranty to why not. Lol.

Those look like the exact ones I used. IIRC i paid about 75.00 shipped for all 4 brand new. They work amazingly.

Been looking for an answer however so far no luck. What happens to a coil thats ran at 6 volts instead of 12?

These coils need 2-2.5 ms dwell time however the stock ecu pushes 5ms. What happens if you run them in series 2 by 2 for 5ms?