I just completed the COP conversion! :cool: My car is a CA spec '99.
Fired right up! Thanks to everyone for the info!

Has anyone completed a COP conversion on a 2001+ NB running a stock ECU?

The reason I ask is,I was at Chikara Motorsports tonight and I was discussing COP conversions with the owner and he mentioned if anyone has done one on a 2001+ NB.The racecar he is rebuilding is in dire need of a stronger ignition system.

Any helpful info will be much appreciated.

Hi i won a set of 9019-02214 toyota cops and i wanted to know if any one has used them before.


eBay Motors: 4 Toyota Camry Coils (item 120380686844 end time Feb-25-09 14:09:26 PST)

I can get a complete set of toyota coils with stock wires and connectors, and avoid most of the soldering...?

what do You think of using stock toyota wiring harness to connect COPs?

im going to say hit me up with a price i need to do cops on my miata

Go for it. All that is left is to make the bracket and put the connector on the Car side of the harness.

Just in case anyone is interested, there a guy on ebay selling these COPs at a pretty good price:

eBay Motors: TOYOTA COROLLA MATRIX IGNITION COIL 1ZZFE (item 310122537705 end time May-14-09 07:59:26 PDT)

He's also selling a lot of 50 for a great price too:

eBay Motors: TOYOTA COROLLA MATRIX IGNITION COIL BULK CELICA MR2 50 (item 310132823219 end time May-31-09 07:31:51 PDT)

Tony

HOLY SHIT!!

Some one buy that and start mass producing PNP COP conversions (Sav get back in business) I would but they don't ship overseas :(

i will start making full plug n play kits with in next few weeks for 90-93

I've got a 93 that I would be interested in purchasing a pre-made COP setup. When you get going, send me a pm. Maybe we can get enough buyers to get a real nice price.

Just to let you know; I asked if they had any connectors (I was going to buy them from them because I can't find them locally) and they threw them in. If you get them from the guy on the auction (like I did), you might want to ask.
Tony

I've been doing a lot of searching and now I'm a bit confused. Will the COP conversion work with an EMB in the mix on a 94? Also, where is everyone tying into the coil harness? There is a gray plug up the harness from the coils that seems to have all 5 of the connections from the coils (power, gnd, tach, and both triggers). I found the exact plug (thank you pick and pull) and I'm using it (unplugging the coils at that spot and plugging in the COP harness there, but I can't seem to get it to work. Now I'm wondering if it's an EMB issue. HELP!

Thanks

Tony

Just wondering if anyone has had a problem with running this set up on a hydra ecu. I tested everything before gutting my igniter. Wired it up started the car and let it run for awhile. went out the next day and nothing. car has no spark. Unhooked two cylinders and only ran 1 and 3 and car started. Does the hydra not have a good enough transitor to pull to coils when cold or what?

Thank to anyone that can help: noob:

Dunno, but, that's hard to imagine, it's not a hell of a lot of current there. Perhaps the connections aren't good? I'd done my original install with butt splices and.. everything fell apart, I'd lose spark on the road (admittedly, months later). Soldering it fixed it.

There's a much bigger chance the signal is inverted, or the hydra (with a dwell time set for stock coils) cooked the coils. You'll need to look carefully at the settings, remember the dwell is much shorter so you could be cooking these.

fwiw I run stock Miata dwell times in the EMS and I'd assume, if properly programmed, the Hydra would also use the same dwell as the stock ECU. I haven't burned up any.
$.02

I ran it fine on the hydra. In full sequential ignition mode.

you need to make sure you wire the banks properly and (depending on version of hydra) set the sequential ignition functionality up.

and dont forget to set your dwell properly.

So, what's so bad about the Toyota COPs compared to the other offerings out there? Several people told me they don't work and provide no increase in performance...although I have dyno results to back it up.

Does anyone have thoughts or comments that a 5-year old can process?

How do I know if the signals are inverted. Also have a question about a capacitor that is'nt in the wiring diagram. what is it for and where does it go. could that be the problem maybe. The hydra has stock dwell times. Don't exaxtly know how to change them yet.

:noob:

Id also like to maybe wire them in sequential. Is it easy to return to stock ignition when using the hydra, or is there alot of work to put it back together. Hav'nt recieved any feed back from FM yet as there hydra guy is on a honeymoon.

Nothing is wrong with them. They work great - they are super fast, super cheap, a no brainer to set up, and they throw a spark the length of your arm. You could read by the light they give off running them at full tilt.

I think people got scared of the dwell time difference or the connectors, but there's no problems.

As to "dyno results", to first order, a spark fires or it doesn't. So, if you're running so much boost you had to gap down your plugs, put on the toyo COPs, and open your gap back up. You should get less missing, and that will show on the dyno.

I was running .020 on the stock coil and I'm running .055 gap now. Its been 6-months, but the car really cam alive back then when I switched and the car is taking insane amounts of spark angle. I know they work, but everyone who knows more about this than me says its a snake oil, lol.

Like I said, you could read by it.

Abe it's not just "less missing" that shows up on the dyno, it's the larger flame kernel from the bigger spark that shows on the dyno.

Sorry, it's what I meant, anyway, a bigger spark without missing. :-)

Another happy coper! I'm running succesfully toyota corolla cops (90919-02239) with e-manage blue.

Smoother ride, smoother idle. I love them!!

Car: '01 with 99 engine

Can anyone help me with a list of usable coil part numbers and or vehicles?

I just came from Ebay and they seem to have everything but the one we use for COP conversion.

This is what I have

Chevrolet Prizm - 2000->2002
Chevy Prism '98-'02
Pontiac Vibe '03-'07
TOYOTA Corolla '98-02
TOYOTA MR2 Spider '00-05
TOYOTA AVENSIS 1.6i 3ZZ-FE N/A 2000-03
TOYOTA AVENSIS 1.8i 1ZZ-FE N/A 2000-03
TOYOTA AVENSIS 1.8i N/A N/A 2003-
TOYOTA CELICA 1.8i 1ZZ-FE N/A 1999-
TOYOTA COROLLA 1.4i 4ZZ-FE N/A 2002-
TOYOTA COROLLA 1.6i 3ZZ-FE N/A 2000-
TOYOTA COROLLA VERSO 1.6i N/A N/A 2001-
TOYOTA COROLLA VERSO 1.8i N/A N/A 2001-
TOYOTA MR2 1.8i VVTi 1ZZ-FE N/A 2000-
TOYOTA RAV 4 1.8i 1ZZ-FE N/A 2000-

Please correct me if I am wrong

Thanks

Mine came from a 2003 Toyota Camry. If you find a compatible one then it should work. The part number is: 90080-19023

Thank you very much.

Right now I am considering 90919-02230 but have no clue if it will work. It is from an 02 Tundra :confused:

Wow!!! I'm glad I saw this post. :eek: I was just going to use regular heat shrink tubing and that snap on wire loom.

Thanks for the heads up.

I'm still trying to find out if the 90919-02230 will work :noob:

Toyota Coil On Plug - AbeFM's Photos

I run them on my car

I have some extras, too, I should count them. At least 3.

Thanks man!!

Nice write up btw

You switched to 90919-02230 ?

Your web page shows 9080-19023 or are you saying it does not matter ?

P

It shows that my sister must not be the only dyslexic in the family. Let me go see what I'm using


(wanders off)

Well, I don't know what I WAS using, but I have "02239" on the car now. I had a bunch of spares, but I swapped them around with people... It's really just a question of how tall and how big around they are. I think some of off a camry, and some a celica.
edit: Corrola and celica. Clicking on the pics zooms them in

A truck might be too long due to a taller head.

A truck might be too long due to a taller head.[/QUOTE] Good point !

I guess I'll know once I get them.

I am building my COPs now for my '02.
I got my COPs from an '03 V6 Lexus P/N 90919-02234. They are longer than the 1.8 COPs. In my case it worked out great! All I had to do was notch the round "skirt" on the COPs to clear the cast bosses on #2,3 & 4. Also I thinned the mounting boss on #3. They look like they belong.
I got the pigtails with the Toyota COPs and I am using the 2 male connectors from the Miata CAS unit. Mine will be "plug & Play"
The hold down bracket will use the Toyota COP bosses and the cast bosses on the valve cover.

How are you doing with your COPs ?

Mine should arrive tomorrow then I'll start trying to find ways to cheap out of buying coil connectors. ;)

Got my Waytek Wire catalog in the mail today. Looked at the connector section, mostly to see what they had in Weatherpak, and found these connector pins.

Molex MX150™ Sealed Connector Systems Home Page

Here's a data sheet for one of the female pins.

Looks like it has just the gap between the wire crimp and the larger portion at the front that :brain: showed us how to create on the Tyco pins. Anyone up for getting some and trying it out?

Great info. Thanks for posting it.

not really in the mood to spend $68 on 1000 pins :P

try these, I got them fro the other thread

Tyco P/N 173631 for .070" contacts to fit connectors

Electronic Component Distributor | Onlinecomponents.com

http://www.newark.com/tyco-electroni...equestid=97705

I wrapped mine up yesterday...and THEY FRIGGIN' ROCK!

Definitely not snake oil...very noticeable difference...no hiccups, and I'm now going to need much bigger tires. The little bump put me over the line for 185s being liveable, and it now wants to lay serious rubber in first two gears.

My 5Krpm cutout is gone...and it pulls straight to redline without the little jerks I used to get. This is all on out-of-the-box gapped NGK Rs.

I was surprised at how easy the harness fitting was once I finally got started. My cheap little parts store audio pins worked great without having to source Toyota connectors...and I simply filled the cavity in with silicone which is holding up well.

Very happy! Thanks to all the guys that did the hard work making this work and doing the write-ups.

Glad to hear the COPs work well for you

I'm also trying to stay away from the stock Toyota connectors by using audio type spade connectors.
I got them at Advanced Auto p/n 84547 Gold Plated Female Diconnects .110inch.

I used some gold plated ones as well...but pulled off the plastic surround (clear red) so they would all squeeze in.

I posted the link and part number in another thread...but they're easy to find in .110" at AutoZone.

I just got the whole lot at a junk yard, and cut the connectors off the donor car. They charged me $15 for 4 plugs. Totally work it, no hassle and they work great.

What did you use to get the red plastic pieces off ?

1. Place pair of pliers in each hand

2. Pull


If I could go back I'd source the connectors...especially at an Abe-like price.

I would also leave yourself more room in the individual leads. I kept mine *really* tight thinking I was smart. It looks nice, and keeps them from touching valve cover....BUT I can't pull one coil at a time. Have to pop all four out with hold-down plate as a unit.

Thanks, I just figured it out by accident.

I may go to a couple of junk yards tomorrow to look for coil plugs....

Since two packs of spade connectors cost me $14 (and a lot more work) you would be well suited to look for the Toyota connectors. It would be work 2-3 times that price for the ease of assembly and quick-disconnect.

Also, with those audio connectors, you have to be really careful none of them are touching down in the base. I ended up stagger bending each of the pins...which I seriously disliked. This gave me maybe .050" of airspace for the silicone to fill. It works (up to 7300rpm as tested yesterday)...but I'd feel better about an OEM quality solution there.

I had the same issue despite partially prying the little connectors open with a small screw driver. :vash:

I got the audio connectors because it was relatively easy just to get them at Advanced Auto. If I find OEM connectors at a good price I'll go that route but if they try to screw me at least I can finsih the COP set up.

Yeah, it can be done...just a little more effort.

Easy to find...bitch to install. The effort I saved tracking things down was lost trying to get them on. I would have rather spent the time in a junk yard a week earlier than having install day take an extra hour for that BS.

But if you're in a spot sometimes you look for the "easy" way out.



Either way the conversion is very much worth it. You will be surprised at how easy it goes...and how much difference it makes.


I just ran to RadiosHack and got my 1kOhm resistor...so tach is working again. But even without this you can take datalogs...you just don't know when to shift (or in my case have any idea how fast you're going since speedo cable is broken too).


All in all this cost me just over $100. Even if it only netted 10hp somewhere it's probably one of the best bang-for-the-buck mods you can do.

BTW I'm doing this pre- turbo. :laugh:

I also have the MS and a slightly healthier fuel pump installed.

Still need a better clutch, rear end and of course a turbo kit :noob:

You can save more time and trade it for money: Call. Some junk yards will sell you the connectors or the whole engine harness. Just tell them what you want and let them pull it. Spoiled here in SD with a nearly infinite supply of junk yards, still.

Good time to stock up, lots of cash-for-clunkers cars around I'll bet

LMAO :laugh:

I just phoned 14 junk yards in my area starting with the ones that are closer to me- Only two claim to have cars that the coil plugs can be cutt off.
One wanted $80.00 and the other wanted $75.00 :vash:
The remainder did not have them.
All of the people that I contacted had a really hard time even understanding what I was talking about. One lady had me actually laughing as she tried to repeat what I was saying so that her ( I guess ) manager/boss would hear it and reply.
At least I got a good laugh from all this. :giggle:

How many terminals from each end did you guys skip when soldering the wires on to the empty ignitir ?

I started soldering wires starting from one end skipping the two outer most terminal on each end but ended up with one extra empty reminal.

Am I supposed to leave two un used terminal at each end or 3 ??

Thanks

Poobs, PM me i have a pic for you to follow

Thanks man !!

I just got the car running with the COPs .

Now I just have to add a couple of more ties and I should be done.

Oh, and I have to figure a way to keep the coils inside the plug wells - maybe I'll have to do the plate thing but I'm going to try to come up with something else.

COP's for dummies

http://i37.tinypic.com/qnpo8x.jpg

Mods feel to use pic as you like

Great pic !!!

Awsome pic can someone do the same for 1.8's

As far as I know it should be the same. If there are differences it will not be in the coil harness itself but MAYBE in how it connects to the stock ignitor section..
You may want to do a search here and mitat.net under COPs for threads.

Try here https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t12704/