http://z.about.com/d/cars/1/0/Y/m/ag_07miata_engine.jpg
Completely different motor, and I doubt they'd fit for depth or design. You'll need to find connectors, tip's, the wiring diagram for them, etc...

And there's no such thing as a PnP COP. The Toyota ones are a perfect fit for their depth, but still require some slight Dremel'ing to fit in the valve-cover channel (on my 1.6 at least). And you still need to fab the wiring harness.

Don't make this thing harder than it is. Look on eBay, find Toyota 1ZZ-FE 2000+ COP's, Dremel to fit, fab up a harness, install resistor into diagnostics box, fabricate hold-down plate, install, turn key.

Read this, it's easy to do it:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...highlight=cops

Go back and read post #1027. It's not sourcing the COP's that is the problem... it's that there are at least 4 different 1.8 valve covers (maybe as many as 5). The 1.6's are all the same, but the wiring for the years of 1.8's are different as well.

This thing IS EASY!!! It's a great mod you can do yourself on your kitchen table. Why pay somebody three times as much when all it takes is a little sack to attempt something new. Go out and buy a soldering iron and make it happen! DIY BABY!!!

My Toyota COPS fit fine with out having the bust out the dremel tool.

i back sams attitude on this, i was friggin scared as hell, i dont know anything about wiring etc. the i build two harnesses and even though i have not installed mine yet, it was confirmed that the way i build mine works great (ask Saml01)
just give it a shot, you'll be happy you did it yourself and saved $100 and spent it on hookers and blow

The different coils have different distances? Or just angles? The one I have has a different angle from the four I used, but the distance looked very similar.

And buying a 1" drill bit was awesome. :-P get a stepped bit, then put in a rollbar to justify the expense.

You need to be introduced to the hole saw :)

That's what I ended up with, a hole saw. But I still like the stepped bits, they work so well so much of the time.

Abe, im pretty sure teh distance is very close if not the same, the offset is differnt though, but no big deal

Dibs
 

Whoooo, Just read all 55 pages in one afternoon. God bless these reeeeally slow office afternoons :bang:

I really like the look of these COP setups and anything that boasts more power, smoother driving, better MPG and clinicly proven to look 190% cooler than stock is on my list of things to do (especially if its cheap!)

Well seeing as someone has let the magic white smoke out of my stock coil now would seem to be the perfect time to do this conversion :cool:

Ive found these, can I call Dibs?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...spagenameZWDVW

Brainy listed these as working nicely, how much should I be looking to pay?

These coils are HARD to find in the UK so if anyone has a nice set of 4 pref with connectors for sale and wouldn't mind shipping to the "United Kingdom of expensive and unavailable parts" please let me know as I dont really want to wait for 9 days on ebay only to be outbid by some tosser in the last 0.1 of a second.

Or are there any more group buys going on? I know I came a little late to this thread but I only got my car 2 weeks ago. What ya gonna do :fawk:

Thanks in advance

Tom

I have those same ones, the fit is perfect and they seem to be the most common ones on here...
look at car-part.com and see if you find anyone who will ship to UK.
Anything under $100 for COPs is a decent deal, since you are in the UK you will obviously pay premium due to shipping. Do you not have Corollas in the UK or what? lol
go to a local junk yard and just gid around.

We have plenty of them but there just doesn't seem to be any deals to be had. None of my local junk yards have anything usable. (I reccon thats down to Brits being as tight as Mother Theresa's..... and fixing anything younger than 20 years old) The only way to buy used coils in the UK is to pay $80 each (penny pinching ripoff merchants)

Anyhoo Ill get me a bid on those ebay ones (especially as they have bonus conns)

Those coils are mine!! Any one who tries to steal them from me will be killed untill they die from it!!!

I know I should search all 55 million pages for an answer, but I'm just gonna ask... Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the OEM COP for my 2001? I want to switch it to the real COPs.

I paid $70 shipped for mine, but they've become VERY popular in recent weeks. I'd expect to pay over $100, and I'd send a message to the seller to see if he'll ship to England cause it doesn't indicate that he will.

The last thing you need to do is upgrade your ignition. Get boosted and get tuned first. Y8s did the swap though so he would know.

Nothing wrong with making plans for the future. I would have already bought coils and such if it was an immediate plan. I would not do it all at the same time, that just would be unintelligent.

yes
you got a ground power and trigger. lol
the middle one is the ground if i am not mistaking and you just give ignition to find your 12v with a basic volt meter or something. and the third is the trigger which is the only on left.
if you are looking at your pins inside the connector. they are facing you from left to right

power-ground-trigger

Sorry, I didn't know that it was funny being unsure which pins were which.

Thanks.

Yay!! I got my COPS gonna have me a solderathon tonight to get em up and sparking. I'll post some pics when they're done.

Also Whilst taking apart my old coil setup I think I found another source for the plugs to go to the stock harness rather than chopping up old coils. On my 94 1.8 S Special the plug that goes into the CAS is identical to the coils. The socket on the CAS also looks like it could be removed without excessive "dremeling". So if you have 2 old CAS you're laughing.

Also a small question about timing guns, I want to set my timing to 14 BTDC and I borrowed a timing gun from a freind. Its quite old and has a knob on the back that adjusts the delay so if you dont have a scale then lining up the spot on the TDC mark the gun will show you the advance. My concern is that the accuracy of this knob is in question. Do you reccon if I short out the pot it will show 0 degrees shift? Or should I get a different gun?

Thanks

Tom

Hole saws will work, but I like precision. :)

That is not at all un-nice. Do you have any pics of the bottom of the plate (i.e. how far down does the screw head protrude)? What's the material, how thick?

The plate was cut on a waterjet out of 1/8th" Aluminum then polished. The plate lies in the recess below the center three valve cover bolts to allow the COPs to drop as far into the head as possible. The “studs” are made from bolts that are held with a nut, lock washer and red Loctite. Once in place the head of the bolts are sanded flat.

Very, very nice. :-) Why bolts and not panheads? Guess it doens't matter, anyway.

Yeap, I just had the bolts in a bin at my shop.

Do you have one more pic, showing how the end of the plate clears the cam belt cover/bulge?

Sure.

Why is there no washer on the front bolt? Would you like to join my international brotherhood of morning for all the broken miata dipsticks in the world?

I need coffee... Anyway, thanks for the pic.

The images were taken during construction. I have all three washers in place now. That is my third and last dipstick!

I lived with a broken one forever, maybe two years. Finally, I bought one. Then two days later, a friend broke that one. I lived with that for another year or two.

Now I bought another one, and I only have it on when the turbo heat sheild is in place, and I swap it for a broken one any time I'm working in the engine bay.

A friend has a metal one which I'm quite a fan of.....
-Abe.

spestis,

Are those plates available for sale. I'm pretty sure I saw someone doing a kit but can't find it now...:vash:

Yep, I searched...

Ooops.. If, how much? :)

The plates are $25 shipped within the US. It will be raw: un-polished un-tapped. You can paint it, brush it with a scotchbite pad (for a brushed look), or polish it with Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish.

Hey I'd like to make some of those from electro-deburred and electropolished stainless. It would be a mirror finish if someone wants to send over some plans. ;) Maybe we can work together on it.

Here is an image in CAD.

What a tease!

Haha, I don't have the COP kit, so I don't know any of the diminsions. If you make them I'll polish them and then people can get something really sexy. 14 gauge stainless would probably work. I can electropolish aluminum too, but the chemicals are nastier.

Travis

My thoughts on the plate I got, pics to follow upon request

It doesn't seem to fit a 99 (technically, a 2000 LS) head real well. It fits nice against the cam and belt bumps, and centers on the cover bolts well - but on my spark plug holes it seems the spacing is off. It's at the extreme end of the holes on cyl 1 and 4.

I gave it a quick polish, and it would take more to get it looking nice. There was something rust-like on part.

Lastly, I found the plate bent pretty easy - I had to tweak it with my hands a fair amount to get it straight, and then when I tightened down my coils, the plate bent from that.

All that said, the coils are held well in place, with some work it would shine up well. With the coils over it,you probably wouldn't notice they are actually in the wrong place - and the few mm they are off will be made up for by tilt in the coil.

If it were me, I'd likely make it out of steel, or thicker still. The edges are quite thin where the holes are punched. Tapping it went well, alum is a joy to work with.

It seems from your pics (more top-down-no-coil pics would help!) that the plate fits better in your car, though the spark plugs should be in the same spot across the NA/NB?

I probably shouldn't have used bolts, but studs as you did, but I don't like having those sticking up.

All in all it's nice, and the water cutting leaves a neat, 'sand blasted' looking finish on the sides.

The spark plugs should be in the same spot across the NA/NB as I have a 99 head and 94 valve cover.

Yeah! That had me really confused.

Here's some pics:
http://abefm.smugmug.com/photos/314867947_ahYu2-XL.jpg
THIS is why you water jet. Can you tell which one I hacked out?



http://abefm.smugmug.com/photos/314868058_sfGuF-XL.jpg
Ok, my first inkling that things aren't lining up right. It's hard to tell since my holes are pretty random, but on the motor they work fine.

Also, my COP mount points are vertical, not offset, so there's an obvious difference there. This is with 3 minutes with a die grinder and a buffing wheel in it. I'm sure with steel wool it would clean up just fine.

http://abefm.smugmug.com/photos/314867716_S2BBu-XL.jpg
Here you can see my head seems to have shrunk in the wash. With the plate centered, the outer holes aren't quite in the right spot. Not sure why!

http://abefm.smugmug.com/photos/314867840_MnnPR-XL.jpg
Lastly, with the #1 hole lined up, you can see the offset increasing with each hole. I have no idea how this looks on other heads, only mine.


Right now I have it mounted, it works when you split the difference and center it. It might be standing up on the lips, but not too bad. The forward facing plugs looks good.

I like that I can retain the rubber bumpers under the COPs, though I can do it on my set up too. For reference, here's my rough one:
http://abefm.smugmug.com/photos/252079663_rcGtf-M.jpg

http://abefm.smugmug.com/photos/242055166_Xpz9P-M.jpg

http://abefm.smugmug.com/photos/258961724_9V2mm-M.jpg


Maybe later, I'll try putting the "forward facing" COPs on there, just to see how it looks.

What gauge wire should I use? I'm redoing mine right now and need to know.

For the triggers and tach, pretty much anything is fine as they're pretty low-current circuits. I think I used 20ga, since I had some lying around at the time. For power and GND, the beefier the better. I'd advise at least 18ga, preferably 16.

Thanks. I had mine done in 20 and 18 for ground but I want to clean it up a bit so I figured I'd ask and while doing it, do it the right way.

You guys are having too much fun with this mod. :)

Nice work.

16ga feeding some 20 ga? :-) Oddly, the ground wires are really small on those, which is weird since there's no other connection to ground. I truly don't understand why they have a bigger wire to power than ground.

But a reasonable rule of thumb: If you add the currents for two coils together (or, the max theoretical current for the wire on the toyota OEM harness), then the wire that feeds them should be able to support that much current. I.E. if they are each 20 ga, I'm sure 18 is fine.

I used 14 for power and ground, would use nothing less. For the price of a few feet of wire go buy it. Avoid the voltage drop.

Good idea. I was going to tie 6,000 lb test chain to the antena on my car, in case I ever need to tow any boats. Because, you know, I'd hate it if the rope snapped.

WTF are you smoking? I said 20 for trigger and tach, and 16 for power and GND.

Is that towards me?

Hey folks, just wanted to thank everyone (lazzer408 in particular) for providing this information. I just did the COP conversion on my 1990 miata with success. However, one interesting question / observation. I have a little single blue LED made by VARAD installed in my center console (fake alarm). It begins blinking when the ignition is turned off. It has basic wiring - constant 12v, ground, and a lead to the ignition fuse. When it senses power on the ignition line, it turns the light off. After doing the COP conversion, when the car is running, the light doesn't turn off but rather goes dim and flickers quickly. Any idea's?

Once again, thanks for the awesome info.

1990 with stock ecu? Some mod box?

Stock ecu. Used to have Apexi AFC-2, but removed recently and installed AEM F/IC. It comes with a patch loom so that you can completely bypass the F/iC. I tried this and same effect.

I'm back after a year.

COP is finished, oil cooler is finished, coolant reroute is finished and the car runs again with zero leaks. I'm at school now, I'll post pics when I get home.

After almost a year of perfect service with my COP system my car started to loose tach signal. After a while longer the car completely shut off while driving. Almost one week went by as I broke down different parts of the wires searching for the new found issues. I found the heat from the valve cover cooked the wires and 135c heat shrink. I copied SparkTechs use of varflex Mil-spec heat sleeve to protect the wiring. I hope this will help others using COP setups.

That looks really good! Where did you get this Varflex stuff?

Emb ftl
 

One thing that worried me for awhile is the people who were failing to trigger the coils with their '99s. I read all around and it seems the one thing uniting them is the use of Greddy E-mangle Blue.

Maybe Brain could add to his archive summary that EMB doesn't seem able to trigger the coils when they are paired for wasted spark.

Crap! I just spent four hours reading this thread and related ones. Time to go breathe some smoky fresh outside air.

very well done with the varflex. Have any of you tried fitting some supra coils on your cars? I am just curious as to if i should save some when i try to get my miata.

Well, This was a most interesting read... I managed to find a set of COPs on eBay for 53 bux shipped. spestis, if you see this post, I'm interested in your bracket. I don't have enough posts to PM you. For those with a 99-00 running the stock ECU, are there "still" issues with the COPs overheating? This is one of my DDs and the turbo and requisite electronics will be early '09 projects... Right now, I'm dealing with suspension and drive train stuff.

Concours C14 - does that mean they are a 1400 cc now?! Heh, cool.

As to the electronics, just build a MS. Get it over with. :-) Otherwise your car will become a stack of patches on top of each other.

There is no benefit at all to COP unless you're going to significantly over rev the car (not on stock ECU) or have significantly higher combustion chamber pressures (not without a turbo).

Finish your suspension, put in an MS, and keep those sweet-deal COPs until they will do you some good.

Hi I have a mazda mx3 with a b6t GTX engine with a b6de head almost the same as 1.6l miata i have bought Celica GT COP to do the COP things

But I Also have a MS2 witch im building right now and i don't find how to run the car FULL COP running it in Wasted Spark seems easy way but any solution tu run it in FULL. Need help thnx Ah And btw im French :P

Car is now running 323 BTX B6T Ecu at 7psi TD-05 Turbo 148WHP at 6000RPM

wire the triggers individually into spark A B C & D

What about the MS Configuration im talking about the electronic parts.