thanks for the intput guys, i removed all of the resin, not hard, just tedious...
i used a variety grinding stones and a drill, ill post pics later the computer im behind feels like 56K
but it was successful
lazzer-reason im keeping the factory harness is to be able to go back at any given time in case of anything happening and not having to cut any wires, etc.

one thing-could we get a list of good part numbers started, kinda like the PnP injector list from Scott? I think that could save everyone (including me) some time...
-'of to the junk yard'

Plug and play > you.

I don't chop up wiring in a car. Instead I find a plug or another harness that I can use to splice in. Plus not everyone wants to hassle with trying to splice into their factory shizzle. Ease of installation is very big in my book.

ok, here are those pics, now i just need to solder wires to the pins and then solder those wires to the toyota coils plugs thingys and call it a day...
BTW- i had absolutely no luck finding those coils anywhere today at any of the local junk yards, so i suppsoe car-partdotcom it is...
Attachment 214981
and more here
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...k3/COPs002.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...k3/COPs003.jpg
hope this helps can help someone...

Hey you know what, it'll work! Just make sure you clean the terminals before soldering the wires onto them, then obviously some heatshrink. I bet if you solder it well you'll have zero failure. :D

So ease of install and easy to undo I take it. I -was- trying to go that route but after having so many wiring mods done I gave up trying to keep track of it all. Under the hood you wouldn't be able to tell. I hard wire when I can to eliminate the chance of a bad connection.

I'm impressed with everything people have come up with to get it working. :bigtu:

shameless ego boost
Attachment 214974
-this is for the 94-95 only, other years are similar but not the same-
i cleaned the terminals since they had some lead/tin on them
in my process, in case anyone wants to do the same, here is what i did
1. cut off the plug of the dead coils i had (thanks Paul) and remove all the epoxy around the terminals like this
Attachment 214975
2. clean the terminals, and covered them with a light layer of soldering wire
3. got some 12 gauge wire for power and ground and some 14 gauge for tach and trigger
4. cover the exposed wire with light layer of soldering wire
5. solder it all together (you have to be very careful when doing this and make sure you have a good safe connection)
6. wrap it all with heat shrink
Attachment 214976
the order of the pins looking at below pic left to right is
-trigger-ground-tach-power
Attachment 214977
any questions or critique, please dont hesitate
next, i plan on scoring some COPs with their respective harenesses with wires cut and just solder it in to the wires pairing 1&4 and 2&3 and then make it look pretty with black spiral wrap thingy...
hope everyone likes

Excellent!

thank you thank you
can we get a 'brush your shoulder of' smiley? lol

Even with my horrendous headache after killing my car, I got Brad's cops up and running. Idle is much smoother and random misses in boost are gone.

I'm still waiting for my connector shells to arrive, then I should be golden. Have to build the harness, but wanted them to come first. Hopefully they'll be here this week, I'm anxious to get some cold start settings tweeked on my car.

I've been in comunication with Rustin over at Boomslang and we've been discussing what would be involved to make a production PnP harness for the cop conversion. I'll be sending them the schematics and connector samples and possibly a mock-up harness so the length will be correct. He feels it shouldn't be too involved. It isn't. =)

Before I do, does anyone have any suggestions or recomendations to the design? Should there be extra slack? Just enough? Which way is easiest for the coils to be facing? Connector towards exhaust or towards intake? Should they bother putting the harness in a split-loom or leave that to the installer?

Let me know.
Thanks

Might want to leave slack since some of the COPS used have angled plugs and some have straight plugs.

Should the individual coil leads be long enough to tuck the bulk of the harness down by the injectors with the 4 wires running up to the coils or just lay over the valvecover with the rest of it?

I saw one with the harness down by the injectors (I don't know who's I think it was Paul's) and it looked fantastic!

Happy 2008 lazzer and once again many thanks! :bowdown:

Thank you Mr. Acavano!



Paul's looked like this:
http://miatamx5.com/cops/cop-21.jpg
I hardwired them in because like everyone else I couldn't find the connectors and I didn't have any bad coil packs to gut. At first i tested by just using pins(modified male spades to fit) inserted into the factory plugs to make sure it worked before the point of no return. This is also on a car that is far from stock and will never be returned to anything near stock.

No, No, No ! Thank YOU, Mr Acavano! lols
wise guys

still looks good paul, im still trying to hunt down some COPs

i am using 90919-02234. FUCK IT'S COLD OUT!

just a heads-up. i have a set of 90919-02244 that I first bought and they have 2 raised rings on them that prevent them from going down into the spark plug well. at least on my 99 heads. I believe I can just modify them by dremeling off that ring and they should fit fine. didn't want to attempt that for the first install though so I picked up the 34's from a fellow member.

other part numbers used(i think):

90080-19015
90919-02239
90080-19023

I know someone asked about a list of part #'s that work. is there one yet? if not we should have a sticky just for that or Scott can do like the injector PNP page. I can confirm that 90919-02234 work with no modifications and dwell settings of 3.5 cranking/2.5 running. the connectors #90980-11885 from Toyota fit as do the pins scott sells with the modifications he prescribes.

this page is definitely a daunting read so I think a summary would be AWESOME for those wanting to attempt. The typical "go search" response doesn't help much when you are facing a 45 page thread

agreed, i was the one to suggest that lol
it can save lots of peoples time...maybe it can get done and everyone running COPs can add their set up so people know what is already being used and ask those users questions about dwell settings etc.

there's already a how-to page....in the archives.


https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...d.php?p=152397

oops. well add my part number to the list of known working coils 90919-02234

and how bout dwell settings too?

just bought some COPs, all four from same car (2001 corolla) and the guy will cut of the wire harness with them for me...i had to pay $90 shipped, seems these are harder to find for cheap by the day
car-part is the way to go though

If they work out for you be sure to post what part number you got if they are different from the ones listed in the FAQ

Corolla should be the correct ones if it has the 1.8.

the guy didnt know, they just got the car in and didnt take the coils off yet, but ill make sure to get the part #s but it should be the same as the one scott got on that 2000 corolla...we'll see though

having the entire harness makes the build so much simpler/easier/cheaper. i think i spent about 10 minutes building brad's harness. basically all four wires on the each coil have a separate wire. so you just gotta combine the 12v, ground, and tach wires out to one each, then combine the 2&3 and 1&4 triggers. simple. spacing is perfect too.

Dan, yours should be the part # finishing in 015. I got 2 of those so you're good to go.

My connector shells will be here monday so I'm getting ready to build my harness... I do have a question however.

Since I had to do the Tach output mod on my megasquirt, do I need to even wire up the tach pins on the COPs?

i think so, since our tachs read output from the CAS
but me no expert...

I also forgot to mention, I don't plan on keeping this specific car forever which is another reason I'm attempting to retain a PNP install for everything. Thus far Everything I've done can easily be returned directly to stock in a few hours. Am planning on selling the car as Stock condition in a couple years to find a newer model to play with. :)

Up to '95 the pull-up resistor is in the ECU and the stock coil packs ground it on a spark event. Up from '95-1/2 the ECU generates the entire tach signal.

I'm assuming this requires me to wire up the tach output connections from the COPs AND the tach output from the MegaSquirt Tach Mod?

In the previous post I should've said "the OEM ECU".

I am not familiar with the tach support of the Toyota COPs (do they switch the tach pin to ground on falling edge), neither with the Megasquirt tach mod (if it does the entire square wave like the '95-1/2+ ECUs then you won't have to connect tach wires to the coils)

well I don't have a scope to bench test what the output is, but I'll run it up to my brothers office wed and check it with their equipment just to make sure. Think it'd be safe to assume that it DOES output the square wave for tach.. but I'll check and report.

i've read the entire thread just now but PLEASE forgive me for missing the obvious... can i still order the COP's here? and can i get the connectors with pins ordered from here? Thank You

eBay for coils
http://www.discounttoyotaparts.com/ for plastic connectors
Braineack for connector pins

I've got the coils, connector housings from Toyota, and pins from Braineack. I probably won't be going to COP in my '01 so if anyones interested in the whole enchilada, minus the wires, PM me.

Frank

Update:

Didn't get to my brothers office yesterday, but day I did confirm that the Tach output from megasquirt does give a 12 volt square wave for tachometer using this circuit:
http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/pix/tacho.jpg

Figured out another small problem... The photograph I took of that connector a week or so ago isn't the same as my 1995. Come to find out mine has the "late" 1.8 4 pin plug on it, so my coils don't give the ECU ANY feedback on tachometer where the 1994 does. Hopefully this tach output mod will infact get my tachometer reading correctly.

Problem:

How the hell do you check/set your timing with COPs??? My timing light (and every timing light I can find..) only has the inductive pickup!?

put the pickup over the wires. it'll work.

Really? Kick ass! I was gettnig worried about that. Thanks mang! :D

Btw: Any chance you'd sell me a retainer bracket for the coils? I don't have the tools available to make one worth a shit anymore :mad:

The inductive pickup of my timing light works just fine with my COP (300M/Intrepid coils)

over the signal wires?

I didn't think that would work. Ive always used a cop in series with a stock plug wire to the spark plug, the put the clamp on that.

Also a big thank you to all involved in getting this to work. :bigtu:

it worked when they dyno'd my car for the rpm pickup

ha, i stand correct.

Should my dash tach show RPM while cranking? MS RPM display shows 140ish RPM, but my dash tach doesn't move at all. I'm worried that something isn't working correctly with my tachometer output modification even though I scoped the output and it was showing a 12 volt square wave.

FYI on the Toyota coils, if someone is having issues with those wired in parallel:

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=263446

this scared me a little, when you say parallel i assume this is what you mean, since i suck at explaining anything in words please view pic...hope i dont get raped for this lol
Attachment 214833

as in pic, the black wires go from connector to furthest coil where i plan to solder the wires together since im getting the factory connectors with the wires cut off
so where the inner coils are i want to strip the wire and solder the connector wire and then isolate it
does this sound good or did i totaly miss the boat, i am no electrician nor electrical engineer, so i need your input to know if this is retarded and not gonna work or if it is OK?

Yup, that what I meant by "in parallel" - those folks running wasted spark config have to wire the coils in pairs - one pair for 1 & 4 and one pair for 2 & 3.

Looks like some stock Miata ECUs have marginal ignition drivers, and each of those can't drive two Toyota coils in parallel. Also, the stock ECU is running different dwell times than what's recommended for the Toyota coils.

All that stuff (and that box they are talking about which most likely Jason C will be designing) is for people running stock ECUs and piggybacks (Xede, AEM F/IC, etc.)

For people running aftermarket standalone ECUs with strong drivers and adjustable dwell - all this doesn't matter.

there's only one person that cant get the COPs to work...

He's also the only one with a CA ecu that has tried though right?

my biggest concern was whether the wiring is ok the way i intend to wire it up
i am running (not really running yet, lol) MS so i will be able to control the dwell so thats not really a concern for me then
so, my wiring should be ok then i assume

IIRC Popstoy has a CA ECU, and Jason C SBB scoped the stuff for him.

It might even be not as general as any CA ECU but some ECU revision (who knows what transistors mazda put into the different revisions trying to cut $$$ corners) ...

That'll do Donkey. ;)

fwiw, i ran mine exactly like this:

http://www.boostedmiata.com/cops/cops_diagram.jpg

That's pic scale for old people with huge glasses (... quack ... ) :p ... to make sure they don't mess up the wiring ...
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

300dpi @ 8" x 10" ftw!

Naaah. why did you fix it? They might not see it propely now ... :D

again, nice work scott, of always put my paint skillz to shame, lol

that's why i dont use paint.

What did you use? QuikCAD Or something?

adobe illustrator since it was open.