He posted a response to my victory on the mnet thread. I kinda feel bad for him that he can't get his to work.

dont feel bad.

I still think it's in his wiring.

internal wiring....in his brain.

is there some reason he can't get a local person to help him?

Probably is in the wiring. Mine is a 99, and I used a trailer wiring harness to wire it up. Very easy. No problems other than the dead battery (self inflicted).

Y8s,
Have you noticed anything positive by running the COPs on your '01? I haven't done it yet as I don't have a real reason to push the envelop in the winter on my crappy tires and I'm not misfiring. I'm debating on whether or not it'll be worth the trouble, especially just running the 2560 at 11 psi.

Frank

hard to say. does it feel slightly smoother? yah.

can I run .040 spark gap on my iridiums? yah.

does it look neat? yah.

that's all I can say for now.

y8s. Did you notice any better fuel economy?

eek :eek: on the iridiums :td: never never never run platinum plugs on no2 or boosted engines.

Because Iridium and Platinum are the same thing. And it's not like Iridium is 8 times stronger than platinum, 6 times harder, and with a melting point 1200°F higher.

It may just be bad for nos use. Maybe ok for turbo.

From NGK's website.

Q: "Can I use platinum plugs with nitrous injection? "

A: "No, it is not suggested to use platinum plugs with nitrous oxide injection.
There have been instances where the platinum tip has lost its bond to either the center or ground electrode when they were used in a motor with nitrous.
Thus far the tech's say they have had no problems using Iridium plugs with nitrous."

It's great platinum handles the heat...if it's on the plug.

sometimes I can't help but wonder if your gerbil is ever spinning it's wheel.

I wonder if you actually know why platinums aren't suggested, without goggling.

I can't remember the last time I changed a plug. Whatever. My shit still starts up and makes power. I'm happy. hahahahaaaaaaaa

I think i use NGK-R's.

or someone please just comment on lazzer's reading comprehension.

haven't driven it enough to notice fuel economy. plus right after i switched, the badgas season started.

and as to the platinum/iridium thing, well, here:

http://www.elementsdatabase.com/Imag...dic_table1.gif

If NGK is warning me against tip failure that's good enough for me. If not, the lower price of copper plugs is good enough for me. If not, the fact that my copper plugs run great is good enough for me. C is for cookie and, well... an element table won't tell me the quality of a product unless it's someone selling me fireplace logs made out of Mg.

I'm wondering of the COP helped because it cured a missfire I didn't know I had or if other people have noticed better mpg as well.

:nono:
:bigtu:

let me clarify the ponit.

NGK says never run platinums.

I don't run platinums.

nuf said.

PLATINUM AND IRIDIUM ARE TWO DIFFERENT ELEMENTS FUCKTARD.

the reason copper is the most used plug is because of it's bomb ass high thermal conductiveness.

While platinum has a higher tip melting point, it's thermal conductive rating is much lower than copper. which means the tip stays hot after the spark has ignited, as the new a/f mixture enter the chamber the hot tip can prematurely ignite the mix or pre-ignition.

iridium not only has a melting point nearly x2 the amount of copper, it's thermal conductive point is much higher than platinums. therefore the worry of pre-ignition is reduced greatly.

but you are right, copper is the best compromise, with a low melting point comparatively, it has the highest thermal conductive rate of any metal on earth, therefore it sheds the heat fast and pre-ignition worries are the lowest, however they may need to be replace most often as the tip wears down....however at $1 a pop, it's not a big deal.

please lazzer, for the love of god, read that and comprehend it and then respond that you understand the difference between platinum and iridium and understand why one is different/better than the other.

Yes I understand it. Never said I didn't. I never said Iridium and Platinum were the same. Is there anything that doesn't turn into an argument on this forum? The only point I was trying to make is that issues do exhist with platinum (and maybe iridium) when used in nos (or boosted) applications and recomended copper. Tip temp being the biggest issue imo and apperently a bonding problem with platinum when used with nos. I was just trying to put out a heads up when using these types of plugs in performance (aka. boost) applications.

well, fwiw, i just built a cop harness today. Easiest thing ever. Brad bought 4 COPs from a junkyard and they sent him the entire valve cover cover and harness. I just had to extended the wires and couple 1&4 and 2&3 and that was it :)

i'll let you know if I ever have an electrode disintigrate.

and no, it's all an argument and all newbs are banned.

has anyone sourced a (waterproof)connector that plugs right into the factory coil harness so it's 100% reversible?

I ended up using a 4 wire harness for a trailer that I soldered in to the stock harness to retain the factory connectors. I just have to unplug the trailer connector, and hook the stock stuff back up. I'll try to get some pics up once I have the mounting bracket for the COPs installed.

I just got male & femaile weatherpack connectors, pins, and the rubber insulators (the ones sold at pep boys and the other auto stores) and soldered it in parallel with the stock harness. You can get a third connector (just the one side), and put in it just the rubber plugs instead of pins, so you have a plug cap for times when the COP is removed ...

Anyone tried the 90080-19023 coils?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...spagenameZWD1V

I know of these 3 part numbers:
90080-19015 <---what were using?? I'll have to go look on my car.
90919-02239
90080-19023

I don't know the differences between them yet. I'm trying to find out.

Pics of the ones I just bought:

lazzer, I won't tell you how much they charged me for mines locally:mad::mad::mad:

Please tell me that I can use them even though I got 2 pairs with different numbers!

Thanks,

Rafa

I have to start reading the fine print! this was the same reason I got stuck with 2 RC 550cc injectors from ebay:td: This guy is selling them individually!:nono:

I'm happier now. He's offering 4 for around $100. This price is still lower than the one I had to pay locally. The store owner couldn't contain his grin. The asshole felt bad and rather than lower his price decided to give me the 4 connectors for free. Merry Christmas to him and his family. El coño de su mai!

the ones i got sitting here are 90080-19015, they were $50 shipped with the entire valve cover and harness. We can go out and resell the valve cover now and try to make a bit of the $$$ back :)

as long as they look the same, the PN shouldn't matter.

Rub it in Braineack. Put my gay smilie back to the right side of the post windows at least.

Nevertheless, I thank you for your input on my MS install.

Que te parece si ahora hablamos de cosas de las que yo se más que tu? haha

Rafa

my spanish is rusty... something about it seems i talk about things less than you more than me?!?!

here's another indian rug burn....

http://www.boostedmiata.com/cops/cops005.jpg

Close; hahaha. Now you know what I understand when I read your posts about turbo issues. (pnp, cops, ait, cas, and on, and on). You need to update your sticky about turbo terms. :)

It says: let's talk now about things I know more about than you :gay:

holy dirty valvecover batman. what engine is that from? Weld on studs? Spaniard, just grab the set of 4 off ebay if the'll work. If you have mixed matched cops sell some to cjergan? I forgot his name. He was looking for 2 coils.

EDIT - "cjernigan"

Chad

lazzer, for now at least I have to try to go with these or go back to the store where I bought them Wednesday morning and ask them to change me one of the pairs. Either way, I installing these on Wednesday. My car is sitting in my garage (after towing it back from the shop:mad:) with no spark.

Chad (cjernigan) was kind enough to build me my MS to run in parallel. Anything he needs from me he can ask but; he's in Hawaii on vacation and I want to fire up my car!

Rafa

How can you forget my name. Of all the names to forget, you'd think I would be the one you would remember.

Are the 02239 coils a little shorter than the 19015?

the valve cover the cops came from. so a 2000 corolla IIRC.

No Chad, they're dead spot on the same size. I put them upside down on the floor next to one another and put a book on top of both. Just in case my eyes deceived me. Anyhow, give me a couple of days and I'll be able to confirm there are no issues mixing both.

depending on the car they came off of, they have different part numbers. but they should all be the same thing. When you start buying Camry coils, you'll notice they don't look the same.

Finally got a pic of the finished product.

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...5/DSC00502.jpg

Jason

me too!

http://www.miatamx5.com/cops/cop-21.jpg

http://www.miatamx5.com/cops/cop-22.jpg

Lookin Good:bigtu:

Running smoother? Any other benefits? Looks like a weight saving:inout:

coilpack is pretty heavy :)

Nice valve cover there Paul. :)

I'm excited so I had to post this up.

You 1994-1997 guys are looking for the coil pack male side plug to make true PNP and I can help a little! I'm happy that I'm able to contribute to this thread finally!

The 1.8 has a small harness that stays with the engine connecting to the coils, water temp sensor, dash temp sensor, and fuel injectors. I removed one of those and ripped it apart finding that its actually TWO separate harnesses taped together!!!!!

Injectors, Temp sensors are all part of ONE harness, the COILS are part of the second with nothing but tape connecting them!

So what we need to do is find a part number somewhere for THIS connector shell and get some pins!

http://www.jugrnot.com/IMG_0165.jpg

1: Blue +12V Switched
2: Black Ground
3: Brown 2/3 Ignitor
4: Black/White Tach
5: Brown/Yellow 1/4 Ignitor
6: Blank

http://www.jugrnot.com/IMG_0163.jpg
http://www.jugrnot.com/IMG_0166.jpg

I've tried to read this entire thread to make sure nobody has gone over this, so I can't guarantee this is new news... but far as I can see, nobody else has posted about this yet. Now, think we can find this connector for plug and play??

Yeah some guy from Russia or Turkey has already done something similar. I don't think he sourced a connector though. He did splice all his connections into that connector though i believe.
I might also be thinking of the guy with the 1.6 in his '99, which was a euro only option.

I don't know if this will help others with 96/97 cars but in my case we removed the resin from the male connector attached to the coil packs and connected the new coil on plugs to the female connectors. Crude but effective. This way I was able to at least keep the female connectors in the cars.

elesjuan, I'll check your solution but, the 3 connectors in my car are not equidistant. Don't forget that my connector has 1 missing pin out of the 4.

BTW Chad, I'm using the 2 different parts numbers cops without issues. I just used the 19015 in 1&4 and the 02239 in cylinders 2&3.

Well I suppose I am that 1,6 NB Euro guy :cool:
Yes I used the Tyco Pins on that original connector. No problem there and it's nearly pnp.

Greets

congrats, you beat me to it...
this is how far along i got...trying to remove the epoxy and try to retain the plastic in place...ill post more pics once im further along
Attachment 214994
Attachment 214995
but im getting there...

I guess that could be an option for me since I smoked my coils and all. lol.

No I didn't Dan. I made a mess of the resin. Yours are the way I would've liked to do mines. My job was pretty ugly but I did want to retain a way to unplug the coils as fast as I could at any given moment (you know just in case I messed up something in my MS again:gay:).

I really would like to get additional info on how are you planning to remove the rest of the resin. If you pull that part of you're going to have the best of both worlds.

Dan, here's a thought: what would happen to the metal pins if you tried to use some kind of liquid solvent to dissolve the epoxy resin? Let me know if you want to pursue that route so I can contact a friend who's the technical director at a local paint manufacturing company and deals with resins and solvents everyday.

I've just spent 90 minutes looking through Tycos online catalog for a connector that looks somewhat remotely close to the connector I photographed with no luck at all.

Problem with liquid solvent is if it'll dissolve the epoxy it'll likely just melt the plastic away too.. But I could be wrong.

There might be a plastic safe epoxy remover?

That's a good point. I'll ask my friend but I don't see how to use a solvent without it touching the plastic on the outside.

Really hoped someone had a line on that connector I posted.

Think when it warms up I'm gonna hit up the junk yard and start grabbing those connectors if I can find them on anything else Mazda. They like to use the same plugs on other cars so I've got some fair luck getting a few.

If I can just find the little crimp pins then I'd really be golden. Don't really need the solution myself, I've got this pigtail I'm planning on using.. Just on the lookout for everyone else.

Why are you guys trying to save the original plugs/connectors?

Hi lazzer :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown: in my particular case to have a way to disconnect the plugs if I face any emergency or what if I want to change anything in the MS such as now when I have to make a mod to control my car's fans?